So Im in the process of rebuilding my v8. This particular motor is a 99a/t keystone motor with the raised intake deck. This motor is also factory relieved and has the steel liners. I bought a NOS set of steel liners online for the 99a to replace the worn ones in the engine but when I took the first liner out I noticed it didnt have the shoulder at the top like the new ones I have. also the new sleeve slides into the bore by hand without using much force at all as if it is slightly too small. So what gives? Surely if the motor has already been bored and sleeved in the past, it wouldnt be a thin wall steel sleeve like this one, and nearly identical in size to the factory replacements.. any of the flathead gurus out there run into this before? Is there a trick to these liners? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Well it looks like you are going to have to set up on a boreing machine to at least make the step that fits the shoulder. The shoulder is to hold the sleeve in place and reduce the need for a press fit. Usually if you do press a sleeve in you need to at least hone to size as the press will shrink the sleeve dai.
The way it is now Ill just get it bored but im still very interested to know what the deal is with the liner, its just one of those things that will keep you up at night haha Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The first liner like that I saw was for the Vega aluminum block engine. Makes sense. Easier way to sleeve an engine. Bore a block for a press in sleeve and you run the chance the press will be to great and the sleeve will stick before it hits the bottom step. This seems to be a newer less precision method.
I could be wrong but I thought the 99a blocks were in 39 and were offered in mercs and pickups and were 3 3/16 bore.flatheadjohn in College Station. 979-595-7324 cell.
I've never seen a 99 block with tin sleeves. And I've never seen a factory relieved block with factory sleeves. But here you have both in the same block. Huh. If it was mine I'd save up a bit and buy new pistons to the opened up size. Forget the sleeves.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234808&highlight=Sleeve https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-question-factory-relieved-blocks.125088/ Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Yep, there are a couple threads. But neither one has an instance of a 99 with sleeves, or a factory relieved block with tin sleeves. I have a '40 block that came in my '40 sedan with tin sleeves. I pulled them out decades ago, but haven't rebuilt that block yet. This block had the ridge at the top, as per usual.
Must have been done after the fact. I always figured it was factory because its stock bore size and has thin wall steel sleeves. Just wanted to know more about the engines is all, i tracked down the correct size pistons that will fit the sleeveless bore so thats what I will go with. Initially I was going to just resleeve it because that saves me tons of $$$ vs new pistons and a machine shop. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I have a raised intake block with those same sleeves. No shoulder, std bore. No relief. I believe Bruce Lancaster said they were a factory deal to allow field repair. Unfortunately mine has two cracks in the cylinder to valve area.
What is the bore of the sleeves? I've never seen a 99A block with tin-can sleeves . . . and I've had a few of them. I just built a 42 Merc motor for my 32 cab - so I've been down this path very recently. My guess is that it is a replacement engine for a 221 cubic inch Ford. You'll be able to verify that if the bore is 3 1/16 inch.
It was 3 3/16 bore. Had stock 8ba crank, rods and pistons. The bore without the sleeve is .120 over. Sleeve thickness .060. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That is definitely a weird one - have never seen that configuration from Ford. BUT - Henry did a lot of weird shit, so nothing surprises me. If it was mine, I'd go to a 3 5/16 bore (.005 more than you have) and you'd have an excellent engine with some added cubic inches. There is no viable reason to go back to 3 3/16 - unless you already have pistons and rings and are dead set on it. I can imagine that you'll spend as much time and $$$ screwing around with trying to find the right sleeves, machining the block, etc - as you will just going to 3 5/16 bore. Just "move on up" to some bigger cubic inches - you'll be glad you did! And if you put a 4" crank in it, you'll have a great 276 cubic inch flatty - a great street combination. One thing - I would have the block magged, sonic tested and the bores inspected (without the old sleeves in it) - to be exactly sure what you're dealing with. Sometimes Henry put sleeves in to deal with a casting or other problem - and you'll want to know if that is the case. Good luck! B&S
I would guess that it was done at the factory to use blocks that were borderline on wall thickness or had imperfections that they thought might cause an issue.
You guys think the factory really spent time trying to fix all the thin blocks? Why spend an extra hour or more, plus the cost of the sleeves and tooling to install them, on a faulty block? I don't see the logic in this. But I still don't know any other reason they would be there.
If you want a lesson on how far a manufacturer will go to save an engine, talk to the Mopar guys about early Hemi's. Not uncommon to see one oversize piston, or one oversize lifter, or one journal on a crank turned undersize, they resorted to every dirty trick imaginable to get an engine out the door.
FWIW, it was born a 239--the round water hole in the middle stack would be keystone on a 221. The "raised" (not really, actually lowered shoulders!) manifold surface makes it '41-2 or wartime. 1943 or so and up have a pad for a 3rd oil line, usually undrilled, like a 59. Sleeves...NO idea!
I have the same block. No core plugs in the pan rail, pencil ledge on front, 3 3/16 bore, center water hole round, factory relieved, and factory thick sleeves (not like the early 3 1/16 tin can sleeves). I believe this is a 29A block. Essentially a 1942 update of the 1939 99A block. I've seen one original in a 1942 big truck originally designated for Post Office use during the war. This block configuration was cussed and discussed at length many years ago on the "old" fordbarn (and possibly even here). Been a long time, but I think Bruce (glad to see you back posting!!) was likely in the middle of the discussion. These blocks are rumored to have the super thick cylinder walls same as the 99, regardless of the sleeves. One of my future endeavors is to purchase a cylinder wall thickness tester and check out the theory!
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I think Ill remove the rest of the sleeves and get the block checked. .125 over pistons are regularly available so ill go that route. I think a machine shop will only need to hone it a few thousandths Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
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