Technical Cooling System Problem

I still want to see a heating equation calculated without time as a factor. Just one.

 

Yeah, I think the one hose you see is the bypass hose, not a heater hose.

 

That would explain both the engine getting hot and the heater not working at higher engine speeds.

 

Yes, time is a factor. I can move my finger quickly through a candle flame and not even feel the heat but slow down and it gets hot? Go slow enough and it gets burned. Do the same thing with a piece of paper.

 

I was told you can't buy time at your local parts store............................

 

Move your finger thru the flame rapidly, but immediately do it again, over and over again.

 

The issue is heat transfer, and the rate and efficiency of that transfer. How do you have a transfer RATE without time as a factor? I'm not sure what you're asking for.

 

Unless I am reading it wrong you both are saying the same thing.......................

 

I was told the same thing!

 

It's a rhetorical question, an insatiable request.
A one line version of my deleted post.

 

Here's how you diagnose a cooling system problem.
This one cools greats after I fixed it. 61* temp drop thru radiator

30 min idle warm up checking stuff and 20 min spirited drive then in for measuring.
202 at thermostat housing ( fan air blows across here)
206 at top tank (no air movements)
145 at the bottom tank. 61* drop

High stepping SBC with mechanical fan a stock 195 thermostat, a new short water pump - stock iron both from advanced auto parts.

 

Above you see a 61 degree drop across the radiator.

Yours is only 10-12 degrees.
Measuments might be inaccurate, air flow inadequate or something else limiting the temp drop.

 

Have you done what March suggested?
Your dual fans & shroud design might be restricting air from flowing threw radiator. Some manufacturers are installing baffles that open at speed letting air low threw shroud.
Mechanical or Thermo fan? Got pic's of radiator, fan, shroud, water pump?

 

Again it goes back to the amount of time that heat is allowed to transfer. It's why a thermostat is used to keep the coolant from leaving the engine before it has absorbed enough heat to reach a certain temperature.

 

No offense, 31Vicky, but here's the thing about laser gun temperature readers. The laser does nothing but give you the approximate center of the target to read a target surface temperature. The actual sensing is done with an infra-red sensor, which reads in a conical, spreading pattern (like a flashlight shine pattern), which spreads out the farther you are from the target. The best readings, for small or concentrated targets is to get as close as possible to the target. Otherwise, you are reading everything around your target, also... for that reason, from your pictures, I'd have to suggest that your temperature reading might aughta' be "rerun" at VERY close proximity to your targets. Some of us might think that your numbers are significantly inaccurate.... no offense...

 

Did someone hurt the OP's feelings, he hasn't been back?

 

I agree that the temperature drop across the radiator should be much more than 10-12 degrees. Even if the ambient air temperature is 100 degrees, 180 degree coolant should drop at least 30 degrees.

 

I think we may have overwhelmed him with the responses, or he may just be trying them and reporting back once done

 

So slowing down the coolant flow causes it to heat up, right?

 

No offense taken,
I believe what you are referring to is the distance to spot ratio,
I assure you it's an accurate measurement at less than 24". The lower tank being the furthest.
This might help you in the future

 

Thank you everyone for the input, sometimes the outside advice and experience gets you back on track and thinking again


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Update: lower radiator hose has a spring, heater hose routing ok, pump direction ok, thermostat ok. The March kit comes with a high flow pump and pulleys that increase the flow. Could the system have so much flow that there is cavitation? I haven’t tried turning the fans off yet, but I don’t see that effecting the heater core. I believe the no heater, and heat under heavy load are connected.


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Only Two reasons why there is not heat in the heater core.
1 no water flow to the core, 2 internal blockage in the core.
If there is heat in the core but not the cabin there's at least 1 mechanism issue.
Simply grabbing the heater hoses to feel for heat can give you a clue.
Both hose cold - no flow
One warm other cold- blockage
One hot, other just slightly cooler- mechanism issue
( because that's how normal hoses and core are supposed to be)

Get the heater core issues diagnosed first. Then you can either relate that into the other problem's diagnosis or not.

The thermostat issue and its proper working also needs to be settled. You can't watch it, or see it, but With an IR temp gun you can monitor the results of the thermostat working correctly or not.

 

From my experience in the fire industry,
Cavitation causes a hell of a racket. Maybe because we are talking higher pump pressures on fire equipment.
Never heard of it happening on a car engine.

 

check, that nobody left a rag in a port. [31vicky' has seen that.] . or a plug left in a port. a buddy of mine actually had an insect, nest in his supply of brake line supply and plugged one of them so solidly hydraulic pressure wouldn't clear it.

 

You've got A/C, factory or aftermarket?
Are the heater/ac/defrost, doors vacuum or electric opening?
PICKS OF COOLING SYSTEM!

 

Winter time at house, I’ll have to wait for better weather


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More pictures More pictures now.

 

The problem here is that the heater works at low speeds and not a high speeds. If I'm reading it correctly, the heater stops working at the same time that the engine temperature goes up. The heater should work better with higher temperature coolant.

In my experience, if a heater core plugs up, it doesn't clean out when you slow down. It stays plugged. It suggests that the flow stops at high speeds and resumes at low speeds. If the flow is controlled by a vacuum operated valve, low engine vacuum could cause it to close. If the damper doors on the heater are controlled by vacuum they might not work properly if the vacuum is low. Going up a mountain at wide open throttle could cause a low vacuum condition but going downhill should lead to less throttle and higher vacuum. If the heater controls aren't vacuum operated then there is no relationship.

One way to check flow would be to put a flowmeter in the heater hose and check flow to see if it changes with engine rpm. If the problem only occurs while driving at speed, it's difficult to see a flowmeter under the hood. Maybe remove the hood and add some hose so a flowmeter can be seen from inside the vehicle and possibly remove the hood if necessary.

Maybe back off the throttle and put the vehicle in neutral to see if the heater starts working.

 

I missed that little tid bit, thanks engine man.

You'd have to think why then most racing and high RPM applications use a pulley configuration to slow the water pump down. Obviously there's a water circulation issue when the pump goes too fast.