Projects rebuilding after the crash

Call andy starr hilborn electronic sales east coast office. Tell him you are building a car like mine just no nitro. He can set you up. He can program a initial tune up into the ecu to get going. To learn some thing about efi i took a class fast teaches. Check their site for dates. andy does drag week in a stack injected 56 chevy. he knows whats going on.

 

@a boner that’s the old slow Fuel Coupe. The next video you take of Brian will be a blur.


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a boner thanks for the video.

 

For mikec62 - go online find mega squirt & read. Tons of good EFI info. So much info need time to work through.

 

If you think reading all of this is boring, you ought to meet Brian and talk with him in person...........

 

The 19.6 gallon pump will place some stress on the delivery side feeding it. I upgraded the outlet on the tank and the inlet on the pump to number 16 fittings. I previously had number 12. The 16s are a inch on the inside diameter. I up sized the vent from a 6 to a 8. The tank is the same length but the width went from 8 inches to 10 inches. New hoops were purchased to acomodate the bigger tank. The new tank gives me 7 gallons now up from 5. Its a real possibility this still might not be enough capacity. New mounts need to be made due to the bigger diameter. Im playing with a few ideas this weekend. Theres alot to consider trying to get the tank mounted. The ideal location puts the tank outlet higher than the pump inlet. Its kind of busy at the front end of the car. I think i need to look at it some more before i start cutting and welding. It cant be stressed enough how important the fuel delivery is to the cars over all success.

 

The sleeves are in the block so its time to build a nitro hemi. I filed the rings tonight. Its my least favorite job to do on a new engine. The red tool squares the rings for a perfect measurement every time. The end gap is set at .040 for the top and second ring for a starting point. Thats a big gap on a street car but not on a blown nitro engine. If we were running more nitro percentage the gap would be even more. We are not worried about a little blow by. That wont wreck parts. Butting rings due to not enough gap will. The boost and nitro makes alot of heat. i will gap another set to have in the trailer ready to go. In these pics it shows how the sleeves all lock in together and how the push rod reliefs come into play. over time sleeve registers can get pounded down. its important to examine the deck to see if a sleeve is below deck. if one is down the cylinder won't seal. the fix is a oversized sleeve and cutting the register over size restoring the proper height. you can't do that with a iron block.

 

I like that.
You can change a O ring also if you fire slot it.

 

im not sure what you mean by fire slot.

 

Very Cool

 

Im getting things organized for the engine assemble. You have stated you like the tech stuff so heres some on kb blocks. All of the kb blocks have serial numbers. Mine is 426-90. It stamped in the pan rail along with the torque specs. The main caps should also have this number stamped into them. Good tips there if you are shopping for a block. The threaded hole in the cap is for a main cap puller to attatch. The puller is basically a slide hammer. It makes the job of pulling caps a breeze.

 

The main caps must fit tight if a puller is needed!

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They have a very tight fit.

 

Is it just the box or are you using Eagle crank?

 

Its just the box. The crank is a brand new 4.5 inch stroke billet vallasco.
All the wheels are now polished. The last one was dropped off yesterday. I like the look of natural magnesium. On my car i think the polished look is better. The polisher does outstanding work.

 

Daaaaaaaam

 

Beautiful Brian. Those damn good polishers make the rest of a guys car look bad! LOL. Congrats on the big fuel line, you now have a second fuel tank. Lippy

 

So the competition will be so distracted by the wheels that they will forget there's a tree to be looking at.

 

Do those look better than the old pair or is it just cause they’re fresh. I thought you had polished the last set around the time that you were treating the frame. It seems like the new ones look richer in Shine and pocketbook.


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All the wheels look good in the sun. The light was just right when i took the pic. These wheels twinkle like diamonds when they are spinning. Its a cool look. These are my all time favorite front wheels.

 

SHINEY !! ooh ! ahh ! I like shiney ! nice !

 

Between call ins back to the hospital i was able to start putting some things together. It all started out good with the crank fitting perfect. Billet nitro cranks are ground with more clearance than stock cranks. Its right at .0035 on the mains and 8.5 on the thrust. It spins nice and smooth without any tight spots. The large radiuses on the journals can cause a problem sometimes depending on the bearings used. I use slightly narrower bearings to avoid that problem.
I put a rod and piston in to set tdc. The rods hit the bottom of the sleeves. They dont have enough clearance. The pic of the rod shows a scratch on it were its hitting. The crank needs to come out so i can get at the sleeves with a rotary file.
The gear drive cover is also not fitting. Its hitting the drive spud. I need a different cover or i need to make some modifications to it. Before i make a pile of chips i want to think on it tonight as to how im going to fix it.

 

Do the sleeves have to come out for that relieving? And, will you be relieving the spare sleeves the same? Earlier you mentioned being able to change them between passes if needed.

 

No. They will stay in the block. I can reach the spot that needs attention. Its a lot of grinding and checking on the first one. The crank will be in and out several times. After i get one to fit then its just a matter repetition for the other seven. A wire is used thats .050 thick to reach the area i cant see. The spare sleeves will get relieved as well.

 

You must have a very good back and also be an extremely careful man as so much of what your doing seems major grunt work fun or not...

Secondly, you will polish the rod damage as well?

 

Stogy its all in a days work. Its not always fun but i stay focused on the pay off. The rod isnt damaged it just has a small scratch.

 

Brian I work in aviation and when we encounter these imperfections we call them nicks, dings or scratches (a form of damage) which in the case of the rod it is minor I realize. I just was curious if you leave it or wash it out. In aircraft it is an understanding that a ding or scratch can through stress over time possibly result in cracks (and corrosion) so we would depending on severity blend/wash it out to a certain finish say 240 - 400 grit and treat as required.

Your Hotrod/Nitro Racer depending on where sees no doubt pretty intense stress but still perhaps not comparable to an aircraft at 30000 feet for the durations of time they encounter. That said you have been in this business as long as I have been building aircraft and know what is an issue or not.

Thanks and Tree time is fast approaching...

 

Hey @racer-x do you have a name for the Beast?

 

i will most likely rub the area with some 1000 grit just to take off any sharp edges. the pic make it look bad. its a rare day a aluminum rod breaks in the beam. no names really. we just refer to it as the coupe.

 

And everyone else probably says, it's "that" coupe again! Oh Boy!

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