Has anyone sprayed POR15 as a chassis paint? Of course when you read the website its the best thing since sliced bread but thats marketing. I've brushed it on many times but never sprayed it, I am thinking about spraying my chassis with it for several reasons #1 the rust preventive properties of course, but also for the lack of surface prep compared to spraying epoxy. I have the powder coating option available to me as well but is it really worth it, who is going to see it and is it any better than POR15 or epoxy in the this application. Your input is appreciated as always
I've used it once and one time was enough for me,I prefer to clean everything properly and opt for a normal finish. As for spraying POR I would think if you thinned it enough it would spray but can you imagine everything covered with overspray,that stuff is almost impossible to get off your hands. HRP
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Been there done that your shin had to grow to remove it, nothing cuts it. Spraying it will seal off your lungs, or seriously screw them up, mask or no mask. Bob
From their website: IS IT BETTER TO BRUSH OR SPRAY POR-15? Most people brush it on, but many spray also. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate respirators for solvents are essential for spraying. HOW DO I THIN POR-15 IF I WANT TO SPRAY IT? You should use only POR-15 Solvent for thinning. Keep lacquer thinner handy for clean-up. Do not thin POR-15 more than 5%. Given how well it sticks though....I wouldn't want to spray it.
I figure there is a reason it's not offered in rattle cans. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
a friend ( Densil Parrish , RIP ) put his '55 PU up on jack stands, got under it on a creeper, with POR-15 and a brush, went to it , brushing every crevice, affected his lungs coating them and eventually he suffocated from the effects, AND he was wearing a paper mask, seemed like it took 2 years.
In my experience, the POR-15 is going to be superior in rust prevention to powder coating. My trailer steel wheels were exhibiting signs of rust in several places. I wanted to preserve the original steel wheels because the steel gauge of the original wheels was thicker than the aftermarket wheels I could buy to replace them with. I wire wheeled all of the rust I could remove and powder coated them, thinking I would never have to worry about refinishing these again. In less than 2 years, the previously rusted areas were bubbling the powder coating, causing me to once again refinish the wheels. I stripped the powder coating, applied POR-15 to the bare wheel metal, then applied two coats of white paint and now 2 years later, they look as good as the day I originally painted them. It seems to work great, as advertised, but as previously stated, don't get it on your skin, because nothing will take it off. I personally would not spray this product even if you could thin it, just because it's so toxic.
Por-15 is designed for a rough surface for adhesion. There have been many who had the stuff fall off in sheets. Don’t use it. Do a search here.
Paint Over Rust If you aren't painting over rust, you are using the product incorrectly. Expect poor results. If you are, it works great. Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ain't no way I would spray that stuff. Like some others said, it won't come off of anything like skin, lungs, eyes or any other vital surfaces. I brushed some on years back and got it on my fingers. I think it may still be there in places. My pet lizard got some on his tail and he had to grow another one before he could get rid of it!
I have never sprayed it. I have not seen a reason to spray it when it is so brush-able. I would spray it if a reason to should arise. Spraying or brushing emits vapors. The vapors are harmful according to the information on the can. It has isocyanate. Brushing or spraying operations should ultimately involve a fresh air breathing device.
My chassis is not under the car yet, so when and if I did spray it would be done outside. I do own a fresh air respirator set up but my interest in spraying rather than brushing is because it's so messy. I've learned the hard way that you need to be covered from head to toe with that stuff. My powder coating guy is meticulous he blasts everything, off gases before spraying etc. His work is impeccable it runs about $600 so yes I'm cheap out of necessity so I'll have to think about it, just does't seem like overkill for a slammed custom but again I am just trying to get another point of view Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I don't understand why it has to be so messy. The instructions say to use light coats. I suppose a combination of spraying and brushing could be used. 2 coats. Patience is your friend. I sometimes think we over think all of this and good old fashioned alkyd enamel is plenty good.
Lacquer thinner for clean up absolutely won't work. I have used this got it on my hands and nothing would get it off the only thing that did it was time. It took months for it to wear off
Well it WILL come off your skin if you get to it within a few moments, like within 10min. Let it dry, well you gotta live with it. Lacquer thinner will take it right off so don't panic. Brush it on. The overspray will get on EVERYTHING. It WILL NOT dry in the air like any other material, so anything in the path of the overspray gets it. Precautions are easy. Rubber gloves are 1st. Some folks like those anal exam gloves. You know, the thin latex ones like the docs use? Forget it. They can tear easy, get limp when solvent type shit hits em, and frankly they're not cheap. Get the plain ol green rubber gloves mom used to wear cleaning the oven or painting the house. Not too thick, not too thin, chemical resistant, use em over and over. Next thing you want is ventalation. A simple box fan will do set up on high pulling the vapors out of the garage. I know you said outside, but what if it rains or gets really windy that night? Unless it's on wheels it's stuck where you do it til it's dry. Even on wheels, who wants to move a wet chassis? Which brings us to the last thing, cover the floor with some cheap drop cloth plastic. Where ever it drips it's stuck there too. I simply assumed you'd wear a respirator with that stinky shit anyway, but even at that take a break and get some fresh air every 30-40 minutes. It's not a bad product if used as directed.
Paint over rust or you're not using it correctly"? nonsense "some have used it and it came off in sheets"....nonsense that it was the product's fault.........I'd put that fault 100% in the hands of the guy that did the prep work, or more accuratly, the guy who applied it without doing the necessary prepwork. POR-15 is one product you HAVE to follow the guidelines or you will have problems. It needs a tooth to adhere. They tell you it won't stick to smooth metal and it won't. That tooth can be gained from sanding, sandblasting (the best imho), acid etch, or the tooth can be had from rusty surfaces. But realistically, unless your doing a ratrod or thrown together dd, who amoungst us is gonna leave rust on their cars? POR-15 is not a paint, it's an ecapsulator. That means it's sealing the metal in a way that paint can't. One problem area not mentioned is that it should not be applied on high humidity (or rainy)days. POR-15 is really a two-part coating, the second part is water that it absorbs from the air. If it gets too much water absorbed, your finish will end up gritty looking like coarse sandpaper. My avatar car is 100% stripped, acid etched and por-15'd on the entire frame, undercarriage, inside all panels. In short any surface that wasn't going to get finish bodywork and paint. Rant over
I used it for close to twenty years, I have seen chassis I've done with rust sweat beads coming through a sandblasted frame more than once, That was sprayed, brushed, not as much... Now days, rustoleum primer, an Satin rustoleum black part #7777 reduced With a lil urethane reducer spays out great, an leaves a perfect satin finish... PS: I do live in a humid area...
Yes I have, a few times. Advice; 1. Use a HF gun, clean it as well as possible but if you miss anything you wont throw away an expensive paint gun. 2. You must use their reducer 3. You must wear a good respirator with new cartridges. 4. Cover everything you value in the garage including the floor. 5. Wear a shoot suit, gloves, hat, eye protection...basically a body condom. Here is one on the spinner. It's a....uh, 32 ford...Yeah, that's it, a 32 ford. That's the ticket.
I wire brushed the frame off loose rust off and brushed on 20 years ago and it looks as the day i did it,no rust
POR-15 fades to a brown color if exposed to direct sunlight. A friend of mine used it on a 3 ton flat deck & over the period of a couple years it faded to a brownish color. Is this common? I realize the regular application is for a frame that should never see direct sunlight(shiny side up). Maybe the UV is a little higher up near the North Pole......
Have read guys using the Lizard Skin gun for it. Its larger than most under-sealer guns etc. Often wondered if they had lizaed skin why not just use that and skip the por15.
I've used KBS, pretty close to POR 15 the KBS owner came from POR 15 after the co screwed him. They both pretty much work the same, get the loose crap off,wire wheel, wire brush, or sandblasting, it likes that the best, use only their thinner to thin, no bullshit about that, BUT mineral spirts can also be used, no laquer thinner, their thinner cleans the excess off your hands better, now if you wire wheel or wire brush, KBS has a magic potion for etching, use it, it also has a magic soap, use that also, if you sand blast blow everything clean and use the soap, in both cases rinse with water, flash rust is not a problem, it can actually sit a couple days and no worries, as Texas 57 stated its an encapsualter, on frames that won't see the sun you can paint with what they call Rust Seal it doesn't have the UV protection so as someone else noticed it will fad and turn chalky, if it will see the sun also use the top coat over the rust seal, that leaves the finish you desire, KBS does put it in spray cans, I just used a new batch the other day and it worked fine, the two part painting of rust seal and top coat works well I just did the running boards on an old Peterbilt and you can't tell that they have been stepped on,its pretty tough stuff, BUT this shit is self leveling if you have something hung to paint and apply too heavy it all drips to the bottom edge, I hung diamond plateand brush painted it what a friggen mess that went to the powder coater to do, I've taken stuff to the powder shop and had them sand blast and painted it when I got it home. KBS also has high heat paint and primer,I've used that with good results, also various engine paints, in spray cans and some quarts, I used their Cummins engine beige and sprayed it and it looks like showroom paint,heres a Y block for a 56 2 ton Ford,their T Bird red, that is a 312, and their high heat paint on the headers. To be truthfull I couldn't spray that stuff to save my ass,it fish eyed right behind the spray gun, my jobber blamed my compressor so 500$ later still the same problem, but I may have screwed it myself I did not use their soap on it prior to painting, I grabbed NAPA paint and had no problem with that.
"my jobber blamed my compressor so 500$ later still the same problem," I'm curious if you had the same problem I did.....replaced my compressor but totally never thought about the dedicated air line that was also contaminated.
My buddy sprayed POR15 on the frame and whole underside of his 63 1/2 Galaxie. He used a cheapie HF gun(threw it away when he finished) a good respirator with new cartridges and put plastic and cheap tarps all around the area. He said he started feeling sick about half way thru the job but finished it. He went outside and puked his guts out 3 or 4 times and his lungs hurt and was sick for a few days. He recommends brush painting it form now on!! It may be safe to spray it if you use a full on fresh air spray system with the right suit, it is for sure some nasty stuff and will cause permanent damage to your lungs. On the upside, I brush it on and it does the job, and holds up for years.
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