Hot Rods Trying to set lash the proper way on a SBC 350!

You say you are money challenged, I will make you one hell of a deal.
If you are gonna use pushrod guideplates you most suredly have to have hardened pushrods.
I have a set of new, in the box Crane stock length pushrods that I bought for my engine but could not use due to the components in my engine requiring longer than stock pushrods. One pair were checked at assembly, they cost me nearly $150, they're yours for 50 bucks.
Ask anybody here, that is a killer deal.
You can easily verify, Google Jegs, Summit, etc. with part number.
If you are interested PM me.

 

Thank you very much Denny...all 16? Will it work with my engine is the question...i measured the current rods in my engine and they are 7 5/16...i dont know what that is listed in the parts stores. I really hope it was a failed rod and bad lash setting that caused the rod to fail...i mean if the engine...so the previous owner said? Was built at a speed shop, i would think they knew what they were doing, as per the geometry setrings go...

 

And ifin ya pull the lifters from their holes. They each have to go back in the same hole that they came out of.

 

I'm thinking you found your problem if that measurement is correct or maybe your yardstick just needs calibrating.


Thats 7&1/16"

http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=25726

 

Yes, I would say so!

 

No. Not saying that. You want to pay attention to # 1 exh., if that was the one that possibly was over tightened. Yes, on a SBC ,the only was to see the lobe is to remove the lifter. if it looks good , then you can , if you want, inspect every other lifter and push rod ,... both ends, then re-do the lash . Put everything back exactly like it was.
BTW, technically speaking, the intake is attached to the heads ...not the block. Also you are dealing with push rods here. Rods are something else. If you order 16 rods, you'll have enough for two engines.

 

You guys have all the cool tools! I need these...

 

Right...sorry, i dont speak the Lingo...yet hahaha! I understand what your saying though, thanks for the clearing up of the process...i am ready to remove intake manifold if needed.

 

I've been following your threads but at times it seems like we don't get a lot of information. With your mention of the
7 5/16" pushrod length now it becomes clear that you have a hydraulic roller camshaft. Stock SBC roller cam pushrods are approximately 7.200 so it sounds as though the p/r's in your engine are +.100. A flat tappet SBC cam will use 7.800 long pushrods. Google "checking pushrod length" and you will find a quick and dirty way using a black marker on the tip of the valve stem to see what you have now as far as valve train geometry goes.
I've been following this on my phone, but with a close look I see AFR stamped on your guide plates so I will assume you have Air Flow Research aluminum heads. It sure looks like there is some top notch equipment used in the engine build up. The roller cam pretty much negates the possibility of lobe and/or lifter damage but you never know, you might want to take a look for sure as Mark Yac mentioned.
If you do not remove the intake manifold I would back off the lash adjustment with the lifter on the heel of the cam, and put a bit of clearance in so you can move the pushrod up and down vertically. Now tighten the adjustment nut slowly to eliminate the up and down motion and when there is none now you can crank in 1/4 or 1/2 turn on the adjustment and lock it down with the posi-lock Allen screw. Do all eight cylinders like that and start the engine, if it sounds good you might just keep it as is, or you can give it a running adjustment- loosen the posi-lock screw and loosen the nut until the lifter just clatters, then tighten it down until it gets quiet and give it the extra 1/4 turn, don't forget to retighten the posi-lock screw.

 

I would agree that my information is not 100% accurate...i try to be, but its pretty tough when i dont know how to describe an issue, sorry bout that...im learning. You are right about the aluminum heads being AFR, it is a nice engine... I am taking the pushrods to oreillys to have them measured and i will post measurements. Thanks for the information .

 

Imlooking at doing the same. Theres a vid on youtube from a guy Ellison empire is his channel. He has a hydraul lash procedure that is done dry and says is fool proof

 

Haha, yes...i watched his video and was starting to follow his instructions...but his video is for an engine that has been rebuilt with new lifters...actually completely rebuilt motor, the logic of doing this on a motor that was already running does not for some reason sit well.

 

There's more than one way to skin a Cat they say, same goes for setting SBC lash. When doing a new motor I do it with the intake off, when doing it on a motor that has been run I do it running with cut V/C for oil mess control. My '62 Corvette motor manual shows how to do it static only turning the motor twice. It truly is an acquired "feel". If I use a Crane Cam I use there method in case anything goes wrong, if using a Comp Cam I use there method, etc., etc.
You have a hole lot of good advice on this thread BUT along with that comes a lot of cooks in the kitchen. My self I only go threw the kitchen to get to the shop............................

 

You make a valid point here, but the takeaway from this video should be this.
Notice the lifters are not filled with oil and the internal spring will feel very soft like this.
Still, he does not make a big deal out of the feel of the pushrod spinning. When he gets to it, he stops.
As someone already said, hydraulics are very forgiving. You can be off a tad on the spin /feel thing, but it's not going to make a bit of difference, after pre-loading.

 

Hi
Sorry to butt in here, and I won't tell him how to do this , but after reading all the posts I think you really need some one to help you inspect what you have and repair it while you watch and learn. I have been a mechanic for over 50 years and a chevy guy as long. This is not rocket science, but it has to be done right. Get some one to help you before you destroy that engine. By what seems in that engine I would not buy stock parts, but after market parts. Comp---Crane--etc.
Regards
Dave

 

It is funny you say that...i went to our local NAPA parts store to buy hardened pushrods and lo and behold, the sales guy has a full set of hardened steel pushrods that he is gonna give me...he builds motors as a side job and offered to even show me how to check lash, tune carb due to carbon on plugs, i will see him tomorrow to get the pushrods and see if he can fix it with me...talk about learning from a seasoned old school engine builder! I will keep u all posted...he talks like you guys in here...hahaha!

 

Hey just butting in here please check your cam lift it sounds like a worn off lobe. Thanks.

 

Gotta love those Napa guys!!!!

 

hi-EOIC -exhaust opening intake closing-you need to turn the motor till the intake valve starts closing-then set the exhaust.

 

So i took a picture of my pushrods...the guy gave me a full set, but it was stock length...(7.889?) Something like that so i am unable to use these, i posted a picture to see what this measurement breaks down to...it looks like 7 5/16 to me, i want to buy some new pushrods, the parts store dont that tool to measure pushrod length...crazy so im posting a pic for some help...

 

You are assuming the push rod length you have is correct for your application.After what I've seen here, I wouldn't bet on that, even with big odds.

 

So, even though the truck has 15 of the 16 pushrods that looks and seems to have been running fine...just 1 bad pushrod on exhaust cylinder 1 shows that the engine builder may have used the wrong size pushrods from the get go? Just seems odd...if more than 1 rod was in need of maintenance, i would assume we were on to a major engine design failure. I'm just trying to look at this in a logical way?

 

Or it could be that it was just the first one to go..Sound illogical?

 

Yes..it does, i will research the "how to find correct pushrod length"...and continue on, thanks Mark

 

I gave it to you already.

Now, when you were doing the whole setting Lash loosen up and down spinning pushrod thing, that busted one should have felt very different from all the others. Way way different.

 

Correct pushrod length is achieved when the rocker is perpendicular to the valve stem when the valve is at half lift. Check for a video by Straub Technology on this subject.

 

Yes, your link is what i am referring to...thanks again 31Vicky!

 

Not mentioned in the Comp video is the fact that you'll need a solid or blocked up lifter of the same height as the one in your engine. Better start there, and see what you're working with first.

 

Take a good push rod and rocker arm and install it on that valve and turn the engine over and see how the valves moves up and down. Does it move like the others?
If so get one push rod and a stamped steel rocker with pivot and nut then fire it up and see if it sounds and runs good then you can look into a valve train upgrade.
If it runs like crap then you haven't wasted as much money.