Its been a while since any updates but work is still going on just slowly so here's a bit of an update. I got the roof done a while ago, basically after clecoing everything together I used the pullmax to make the center strip , then was just a matter of spending a couple days welding everything together. The reason I took so long to weld was because I knew the roof was going to shrink simply by welding on it. So to at-least save myself from more work later, I would just do 1-2 tacks then move about a foot away , a couple more , repeat that way the metal had plenty of time to cool and didn't build up excessive heat that would make later panel hitting harder.
So after getting the welding done i started doing some bodywork on the roof and that's alot of whats taking forever because honestly... i just don't enjoy doing it so its hard getting motivated..but the roof is almost done thankfully.
Looks great. I'm the same. Metal Fab is fun. Body work not. Sent from my SM-G530T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice job on the decrowned roof. I had considered something similar, with just a more laid-down rear window on an otherwise stock height roof, to take out the back seat head "bump". I'm not that far yet though, and your car looks really good, I like it.
So besides just taking my sweet time I've started to work on something a little more up my alley; back to doing something with metal. The front bumper I'm using is a 51 mercury bumper which I prefer the look of over the 49's , and I like the bumper guards style.... just not the size of them. So that's what i'm working on now is getting them cut down a bit so they mesh better with the Desoto grill. First I simply welded the bumper irons to the bench because its a little easier to work at a manageable height. and I used the drivers side as the reference whial I did the passenger side , and seeing as it was the worst condition it was a good testbed. And so now one down, now all i have to do is match the other to fit the same way. But i think these will look a lot better than how tall the originals are
Most impressive! I was curious to see how it might look with a slight body section, and thought you might like to see the result. Though only a couple of inches, it has quite an impact with the slimmer roof. To me, this might be the ultimate Merc. (PhotoShop by themoose) Years ago, Sonny Daout mentioned a Merc he was building for himself. In addition to the de-crowned roof, it was both sectioned and chopped. (I think the top looks great as you have it.) I have searched in vain for any photos, but it is sure to be awesome.
So basically just doing the same thing to the other sides bumperette. Putting everything back on to see what it will somewhat look like , and personally i think it works well with the grille they don't overshadow it anymore.
Lots of great info in this thread! I plan on starting on a '49 Merc this summer, so I definitely appreciate how well you covered the front suspension etc... Dig that you're putting a flathead in it. Interesting way to do the roof, but I like the results! Keep up the good work! Excellent work on the bumper guards... it's the little details that count!
So as far as current updates nothing really... picture worthy (just cleaning parts...but once i start putting it back together ill take photos), currently i'm pulling apart a 49 mercury transmission as well as a 50 ford... because I have to run the mercury case for the clutch mechanism, but unfortunately the mercury gears lost a couple teeth and because even thou the ford and mercury have the same part numbers... they are not infact the same parts... so that's where that's at. The long and short will be using all the good internals from the ford (which were really nice), machining the main drive bearing retainer from the ford to fit a Mercuries bearing , then using the fords output housing which is longer and the mounting is different so ill have to make a trans mount instead of using the stock location... slightly annoying but if this is the only way to get a working transmission to fit this is how it'll need to be. @bradyl1929 So the bumperettes aren't a finalized thing yet, basically I plan on getting the car done atleast up to all the bodywork done then put the bumper on with them on , and with them off and seeing what looks the best. I knew I hated the stock look because they were too tall , but I like the shorted versions because it still looks like a 51 merc's stock bumper..just different.
Thank you for sharing your build and skills . Great job on rebuilding the car and getting another dinosaur back on the road. Did I see a Shovelhead lurking in the background ?
So basically all that's done is everything is cleaned and ready for reassembly , and everything has been ordered that's needed. The one thing i did get which was well worth the money was a 49-51 Lincoln Mercury overhaul manual , and it literally has everything you could want to know about one of these cars... if you can think of it... its in here.
Should come in real handy for those small part your not sure what there for or how to find. Sent from my SM-G530T1 using Tapatalk
So i got it from "The Motor Bookstore" was 50$ and it has a real nice binding and all the pictures and text are crisp and not like a copy of a copy of a copy type thing and its over 600 pages so well worth it imo.
So the transmission rebuild is turning/turned into the project that never ends. So first off this is a 49 mercury transmission and im trying to put 50 ford internals in it... yes i knew there was going to issues... and i found them and fixed them but jeeezzzz. First off even thou mercury and ford have the same part numbers for a lot of the parts does not mean they are in-fact the same... basically nothing in a mercury is the same as ford... So to start the delays.. i ordered all the parts from macs and everything was great... until i got to the cluster gear roller bearings... see the mercury uses a cages roller bearing and the ford uses loose single bearing... so the product is a caged bearing that says it works for 50 fords... well it works for the 49 mercury but no dice on the ford gears as its way to big to fit... Thankfully between the 2 gearbox's i was able to get a set of bearing that weren't brinelled so used those.. then go to put everything together, now the clearances are very tight with all the new special washers... so tight you in-fact cant even get them all in let alone have the lower cluster spin.. now I'm not talking by a lot in total between all 3 special washers only .005 but that was enough to stop everything from working.. so had to use a set of the original ones that admittedly were in great condition but i thought hey new is better. One of the final and honestly the dumbest problem i had that took ...2-3 hours of frustration.. and it was the easiest and dumbest problem to solve...So the gearbox tail-shaft housing is held on by 4 bolts... so put new bolts in... what i didn't expect/remember was that the lower gear cluster is very close to one of the bolt holes so if say you have a bolt that's just a little too long it will start hitting all those washers and in effect lock up the gears... making for a very confusing wtf is wrong now moment...aka remove the one offending bolt grind an 1/8th of and taadaa everything works perfectly now.
Dear MBartils, what is the system you are using to hold the skirts in place. I have to figure out how to make a locking in place mechanism. Can you send pictures and explain how you did it? Thanks, Marco
Sure thing Marco, So I started out first just getting the skirts to fit nicely in the opening I had. The idea of how to attach these was kind of stolen from a Oldsmobile holiday 88's stock flush fender skirts. They had 3 sheet-metal pieces bent in a V on the very top of the skirt that slotted into some slots in the fender's lip, then some brackets that bolted everything together at the bottom. So I wanted to do something similar because it was a simple solution to something I'd never thought of. So I started by drilling 3 holes the same size as the metal dowel pins I made into the flat part of the finder lip around the center (width wise) and, then carefully making sure the dowel pins are perpendicular to each other and in the actual holes I'd drill I tacked the pins to the fender skirts. (well then untacking when you couldn't get it out because one is tilted and locks everything up and trying again till everything actually works) So the pins lock the top of the skirts in/out and forward/back and make it so they can only go up/down if nothing is locking them in. To lock them in place i made a set of ears for the car and skirts drill the hole for the car side first then put the skirts back on and center punch the skirt side so they are perfectly in line, then just drill both holes to be the exact clearance of whatever pin you want to use. I'm using some lynch pins from tractor supply because they work great for this application. Hope this helps you Marco
So no much happening just smoothing all the firewall holes that wont be used/needed . I like having a nice firewall that's not cluttered. Now the next project I'm going to start will be attempting to make a panel that welds to the inner fender and goes flush to the firewall so that when everything is assembled it will look a lot cleaner and smother and hide the ducting and the bracing ill add to where the hinges mount to stop any flexing.
Just incredible work on your Merc and your attention to detail is great. Will be one sweet Merc when you are finished with her.
Thanks Mbartills. It did help a bunch. I have already made the skirts, but after seing your project I will change mine. I am including a picture of where I am right now. Parts have been media blasted and primed, but now back to work to make it perfect. Thanks a lot.
Next task, seeing as its back on the lift was to finish mounting my brake booster... and make it actually work with the stock pedal location. I had made an aluminum template a long time ago so simply using my template made the steel plate. I knew from the start I would need an access panel when I set up the location I made it so that it was just touching the floor initially so that when I made my access panel I could make it raised for clearance. The original master cylinder mounts to the front... well making it mount the other way means that the clevis pivot is in the wrong spot, and seeing as id like to keep the grease zerk I need to rotate everything around , similarly to get the push-rod I'd also need to rotate the clevis's pivot to get it aligned with my hole... but all in all everything works just lovely now.
Potentially the last piece of any serious rust is now done... finally no more rust repair... Now to just start doing a lot of finish work before it gets blown apart for paint, need to do all the pluming for brakes, fuel, exhaust , wiring etc etc etc... one step closer thou.
Really enjoyed reading your entire posts. We have been going through the same rebuilding I haven`t gotten into the roof yet. Good idea on the inner rockers. I switched from the 50 in my Id photo to a 49. My door gaps were too tight what a battle! I am going to use NOS doors and fenders feeling a bit guilty about cutting them but running out of time will be retiring next winter and won`t have the use of a fantastic shop.
Well thank you , if anything I post helps someone else with their project that's one of the main reasons to keep posting everything. I personally hate setting gaps... it's horrible... it's always hell.. mostly because you'll set it come back back 6 months later be like "naaahhh I don't like it anymore I can do better"... and then spend days getting it better ...then repeat till done. That's my life with this build I don't really post about gaps like that because... its not a great read... As for cutting up nos stuff, who cares truth be told most the factory stuff barely fit back in the day and even then they cut and moved metal to get it to fit on the factory line so i wouldn't feel bad about cutting stuff up , these are customs... that's what you do, make what you like.
The Jalopy Journal
