Technical IGN SWITCH - RUN/START

Ok, electrical gurus, I need a panel mounted ignition switch that does not drop the RUN voltage when turned to the START/CRANK position. Or a way of accomplishing the same thing. Thanks!!!!

 

What are you working on? Helps to have that info.

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I'm not aware of an ignition switch that does that; are you sure you have yours wired right?

A three position switch would be off/run/start, with the 'run' position supplying power in both run and start positions.
A four position switch would be acc/off/run/start, with power on 'acc' and 'run' in the 'on' position, but will disconnect 'acc' when turned to start (but not the 'run' terminal).

Generally, this problem is due to the ignition wiring connected wrong when using a ballast resistor. The 'run' terminal should connect to the ballast resistor, the start terminal should connect past the resistor bypassing it. If you're using a Ford starter solenoid, the 'S' and 'I' terminals are used, with the 'I' terminal being the 'bypass' wire and you don't need the connection at the switch.

 

Sorry, Off topic hot rod with Coyote motor. The computer requires 12 volts during the engine cranking sequence (it cannot sense an interruption in the voltage), and most aftermarket panel ignition switches drop the 12 volts that would be normally applied from the RUN position on the switch. Hoping to stay away from external diode or another relay in the system.

 

Way too new for the old farts on this board. Check one of the tuner boards.

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Late model GM columns have this feature built into them to power the HEI coil during crank (no more R wire from the solenoid). But this build requires a panel mounted ign switch.

 

LOL not everyone here is an old fart...and theres some pretty damn savy youngsters here .....as well as some guys that have kept up with the new fangled stuff.

 

I have kept up with the new stuff. A relay would fix that, but you already said no relay or diode. And as said.... Off topic.

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Never said no relay or diode, was just hoping to fix with a switch that someone here may know of. If thats what it takes I will do it. I appreciate your response and anyone else who might chime in...lots of respect for the guys that hang out here.

 

Try a 65 Dodge truck switch.... That is on topic.

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Check a '50s-early '60s Ford switch for function... pretty sure that's what you need.

 

But this is a Ford....the key wont match!!!

Just kidding, thanks I will definitely look it to that immediately!!!!
THANKS

 

I must not be reading your post correctly.
I just replaced a bad H.E I. module in my avatar pickup and part of my testing/trouble shooting was to see that I had 12 volts while cranking. It's just a average ignition off/on/start and supply's 12 volts to the H.E.I while cranking. What am I not understanding?

 

That he's trying to sneak a Coyote engine onto the HAMB "as traditional"

 

I never heard of the ignition switch dropping the voltage. I've had Dodges that had a ballast resistor and I've had Fords that had a resistance wire. So far as I know the ignition switch puts the 12V through and it gets reduced by either the ballast resistor (Dodge) or the resistance wire (Ford). I don't know for sure about Chev. I just changed the distributors and it ran so I was good with it.

 

Aftermarket ign switches and GM dash mounted switches disconnect the RUN voltage while the key is turned to Start. I believe this is to remove any other draws from the system to provide the starter with as much juice as possible. But to still provide 12 volts to the coil while in the Start position on a GM a wire is provided back up to the coil on the R side of the Solenoid. The old Fords do this from the fender well mounted starter solenoid in the same fashion. Dodges were nice enough to provide an Ign 1 and Ign 2 poles on the ignition switch and I believe Ign 2 provides the coil voltage during Start and Ign 1 handles the voltage in the Run position (Thank you Greybeard360 for the awesome tip!) Nowadays all the switches behave much like the Dodge switch, but are integral to the column. Thanks guys!!!!!

 

Lots of ignition switches drop "run" voltage in "start" position.

If you can't find one,,,
You can put a start button next to the ignition switch.
You can ad a relay into the "start" circuit.
You can wire A diode right in at the switch.

The relay and diode might give a momentary loss of power when the switch is in between start and run. Might be an issue

 

This is exactly my dilema and thoughts....Thanks man!!

 

THAT DID THE TRICK!!!! Perfect, Echlin KS6528 Mopar ignition switch (Has IGN1 and IGN2, IGN 2 being a secondary 12volts during start only)

THANK YOU VERY MUCH GREYBEARD360!

 

Old farts rule

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Yes they do! Now to make the key look like a Ford key....lol

 

Just go buy a skull and crossbones key for it.

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