So i managed to find a front crossmember at a swapmeet yesturday for the 35 Ford. Now i can get rid of the god awful IFS. so im wondering what the best method would be for re-attaching the crossmember to the rails ? Any suggestions? Bolt, weld ,rivet ??? Sent from my LG-K520 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I replaced the front cross-member on a '36 Ford I had about 20 years ago. I got a reproduction piece from Precision Coachworks. They supplied a set of "button-head" cap screws with it. I installed them with red "Loc-tite" and the proper torque. After installation, I filled in the recesses in the heads with bondo and sanded and painted them. They looked just like rivets. I drove the car 5 years before I sold it and never had a second thought about the repair. In retrospect, if I were going to do it today, I'd use something a little more durable than bondo, perhaps JB Weld. I am sure properly installed rivets would be the best way to go, but it was a little above my pay grade at the time and I think the bolts were sufficient. This was on a basically stock car to replace a cracked cross-member. The way the IFS was installed will affect your particular case and it may require fitting and welding.
If the holes are still there from the rivets I would bolt it in place to make sure everything is square,then I would weld it in place. HRP
A lot of early Ford frames flex a lot and that is why they were riveted rather than welded. On Model A frames welding the crossmember in without boxing the frame will create a stress point and they will crack. Not sure how much the later frames flex but Ford used rivets for a reason.
What type of bolt material is recommended for doing this Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The reason for the frame to flex had more to do with the ladder construction and no real cross-bracing,today we don't need the frame to flex due to paved highways instead of pig paths that were the main routes for transporting during the era. HRP
Im guessing 8.8 ? Im thinking if you go higher its too brittle? Sent from my LG-K520 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Go with Tubman's advice. He's proven it works. Keep in mind Ford used steel rivets and swedged them into final position. I believe 53-54 Chevy's front suspensions were also bolted in place. Here's a good read: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/weld-in-crossmember-or-bolt-in.650190/
If you want to go original and don't mind working your ass off then buck rivets. Lost of them get bolted and that is an option that is easy enough. I have been known to weld 'em but I don't care if anyone thinks I am cool or lot. Button head screws resemble rivets at a glance and lots of guys like that look. It is a good tradeoff if you are after the riveted look.
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