We have a 35/36 and spring rear in our 32 , done 9000 or so miles. While my Son and Partner were away in it for a few days they said they herd a clicking sound he said it sounds like the wheel weights , no I said, but sure enough the weights were contacting the rear spring shackle. Seems over time the spring has settled and the shackles moved out. Plan to re arch the spring an 1" or so. What's folks thoughts on re arching this small amount in a hydraulic press. ?
It sounds like your spring is too long. A new shorter main leaf or maybe a 40 front might work well. Yes you can re-arch your spring. I don't think that would be enough.
Probably 1/2" between spring eye and wheel weights. With 2 1/2" suspension travell. Remember this setup has been good for 9000 miles. Wonky coker tires so there would be too many weights to use stick ons. But the spring hits the rim any way. Stock 35/36 radius rods and spring. Stock 46/48 16" rims.
you should be able to rearch it just fine. same way we reverse the eyes, you draw the outline on the floor with chalk for a reference. then mark the spring every inch. then set it across a short piece of channel iron, and find a good round thing to press it with. i like an old starter or generator case for that. start pressing a little at a time every inch untill you have what you want. two people works best
Yes I know the angle is wrong. I imagine i will need to do every leaf. Would a decent set of rollers be nicer? No cant really reverse it as we only have 2 1/2" of travel at present though with the 750X16 and the oversize vintuque tank from the rear view it looks like a preying mantis about to do a dump. So Lowering would improve stance if we could.
I would do it. Like you said, you will probably have to do every leaf, or at least most of the long ones. I wonder if one inch of extra arch unloaded is worth one extra inch of arch loaded. Find out for us. I need to do the exact opposite of you on my sedan this spring. I want about an inch lower.
not every leaf, just the long ones. your trace on the floor will tell. avoid near the hole in the center, they can bend too far or crack, just skip that couple inches
A friend of mine re arched one by hammering them He tack welded some angle on his work bench. Then scribed lines every inch on the springs. He hammered the springs hitting them between the angles. Lots of hammering but it worked
sounds like a lot of work! its a lot of pumping too, electric hyd press is best if you know of one near by. its still nice to have two people to really watch whats happening.
Hydraulic press (handraulic) worked best for me as I got a "feel" for how much pressure made what bend , maybe an hour or two all up (pic is part way through reversing)
I reversed both the springs in my 31 using a press. It's easy, and fun. Go slow, little bends at a time.
Kiwi I have a 32 Tudor sedan. The rear axle is a 36, as is the spring. I re arched the main leaf (took about an hour using a press) and then shortened the next leaf about an inch on each end. I also removed 2 leaves. There is NO reason to re arch any other leaves. I then made a spacer to take up the space from the removed leaves. This lowered the rear about 2" and made the ride very nice.
Well thanks HAMBEers . Took the bull by the horns as it were and comandered my sons big electric hydraulic pipe bender that's capable of bending 3" pipe , well really a horizontal press. Did all the leaves at 1" intervals and skipped the centre 5" so shortened the package 2" and raised it 2" as per rust valleys suggestion but its still guess work. Gotta be careful as its super easy to go too far, probably took less than 1hr to do the whole package. Will keep you updated when its bolted in.
Just in the process of ditching the Model A spring in the rear of the 32 and fitting a 46 front spring in its place. I had to bring the centres in about the width of the eye to get the shackles at 45 degrees. Drew the out line on the floor and marked all the leaves every 2" . Set up the press brake, about 15 min work. Came out perfect. Will let you know the difference in ride.
Yep thats the guess work part (or is it dont expect there is a formula) fit the spring realise the shackles are not at 45 remove the whole deal again and surmise how much effects how much. Did you do the whole package or just the main leaf. We just put a 36 front spring in the rear of a quite low model A (8" step) with 35/36 bones to get the spring hangers inside the wheel arch, so we did not have to cut an ugly window in the body to clear the hangers etc. Your ride looks bitching what ever you will do. I mean hemi in a black chopped 32 ya cant go wrong.
I would recommend going to a spring specialist and having a new main leaf made up. I know, - not very traditional but safer. I have played at reversing main spring by the methods above, (80 tonne press), but not fully understanding the metallurgy of it all I wasn’t keen to use it.
The perches are right on 48" . Its 47 pickup tubes converted to slide in axles and open drive with 35/36 radius rods welded on. Is there anyone left in NZ that makes leaf springs?
I'd say something is suspect, my roadster only has a 2" arch and the shackles are still angled further than that
Archers in Rotorua still do a good job. Made the front spring for my dodge modified an I was very happy with price an finish.
All done. Now we have 1" 1/8 between shackle and rim with 3 1/2" suspension travel. Not quite 45 degrees but still an improvement .Looks not so good with more rake but to me its more important to drive when ever and where ever.
I had to do every leaf on mine as they did not sit just right. As you say it is just guess work. There is a difference between the Model A spring and the 46 spring, the 46 spring is a lighter guage and the leaves are tapered and drawn. The 46 spring should give a better ride.
I see you got it handled. But never pass up the opportunity to get some new wheels, especially if you have a "legitimate" excuse
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