So, my new project is a 39 Dodge pickup. I'm installing a relatively stock modern Mopar V8 where the flathead 6 used to be. To keep the hood, and still have leg room, the motor sits 3" back in the cab, and it looks like I need to move the radiator farther forward in the grill then where the old radiator sat. I'm probably looking at a new aluminum radiator that will need to be less then 22" wide but can be up to about 27" tall. I see them priced from $115 (that is scary) all the way up to $600 (way out of my price range). Lets hear some suggestions on what I should be looking for, and also what I don't want to get. It really needs to be in or under the $250-$300 price range if possible. Gene
Wouldn't the original rad do the trick? You can reverse the mounting brackets like Canadian Dodges and Fargos and that give about 2-3" extra room.
Lets pretend I don't have an original radiator. I can't imagine I could buy one in my price range, and then I have doubts that it would be up to the task of cooling a 360 that needs to run in the 200-220 range a modern motor needs. Were the original radiators even pressurized back then? The original temp gauge only reads to 212 degrees. Gene
...check out radiators at Speedway Motors,think mine was an AFCO brand... ...got one for my 37 coupe from them, aluminum, bolted rite in, less than $300, ran 185 * all the time...ran it for 10+ years,...didn't like the aluminum look so painted the core flat black...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univ...-27-Inch-Tall-Passenger-Side-Outlet,7316.html something like that? looks like it might work, eh?
With radiators you generally get what you pay for,I prefer copper/brass they outlive aluminum radiators,but I understand trying to save a buck. HRP
If you dig around on EBay, you can find the size you are looking for that are made in the USA. They are from Mississippi or somewhere like that and are very good quality and aren’t too much more than the China ones. Good luck, -Abone.
There are lots of new aluminum radiators listed on Ebay, from several different companies, but few tell the country of origin. Nearly all of the companies tell you they have the best radiator available. How do you know where the radiators are made, and what do I need to look for as far as tube design and such? Do I need a 2 core, a 3 core, or a wide tube 2 core with extra fins? Are stamped ends better or are welded ends better? It used to be pretty simple buying this kind of stuff. The stuff was really cheap and was junk, or it was expensive and was good stuff. These days, the lines are very blurred. Do I just take a picture of each and stick the pictures on a dart board and throw a dart for the winner? Gene
I’ve had good luck with champion radiators. In my model A I had a stock mustang radiator. I don’t think it was wider than 22 inches
I'll also recommend the Champion Radiators. I have ran a couple of them and am currently running one with no issues.
Just took my original 46 Merc radiator to a local shop for cleaning. It's probably the first time the radiator has been out of the car since before it was put in storage in 1961. Looking at the inside of the engine, I'd say it (the engine) was rebuilt shortly the car was put in storage. Shop owner calls me back after 2 days of trying to get the radiator cleaned out and says it's going to be $600 to re-core it with copper. That $200 2 row aluminum radiator is starting to look real good about now.
that's the situation I've faced....although they usually complain about the condition of the tanks, as well.
Isn't there a website where you can search for a radiator, based on dimensions, instead of based on vehicle?
If you go aluminum get one that is welded not epoxied together. I have a Wizard radiator in my car, made in NY. He guaranteed it would cool my engine in the race car. Pat
Learned a long time ago that when it comes to cooling, brakes and steering always buy the best. How much quality to you expect to get in a cheap or $115 Chinese radiator?
Yep http://www.rondavisradiators.com Many years ago before I bought the custom radiator (Ron Davis) for my 66 Suburban I discussed this with a friend of mine that was a professional builder. One of the things that stuck in my head was his comment about getting aluminum radiators repaired if you find yourself "off the beaten path". With the OEM's use of aluminum radiators nowadays, that is not such a big issue but I guess I have an aversion to long walks.
The biggest problem with cheap Chinese radiators is the cooling tubes are epoxied rather then being TIG welded. That renders them unrepairable and a throw away.
the aluminum radiators they make in China for older cars have welded tanks, the aluminum radiators they've been putting in new cars for the past 25ish years have plastic tanks that are crimped in place. they can both be repaired...but usually for more money than you can buy a new one for. And finding someone to fix a copper/brass radiator these days is not so easy, either.
Let's get a 80,000 foot view of this picture. First there was 1 radiator manufacturer, they were good, worked and lasted. The the next manufacturer comes along and says I can do it cheaper. Now there's 2. A third comes along and says he can do it cheaper still. On and on and on like that where each new comer bestie the predecessor on price. Not that they would but the first one needs to compete with the latest guy pushing cheap radiators and lessen their quality, usually with a secondary economy version. The last one I got was from classic industries for a 62 Chevy nova. They said it was an exact copy in aluminum. It was exactly as stated except for one thing. The shroud bolt holes were metric thread. 1 Can't speak to longevity yet but it was a quality looking piece and functioned well with a massive temp reduction between top and bottom.
Well, I just ordered a new Champion aluminum radiator. Naturally no one makes a "replacement" radiator for my project, so I had to take a shot at what I thought would fit. I'm going to make a radiator for a 46 Ford with Chevy hose fittings work in my 39 Dodge with a 360 Mopar. The height will be good, the width is about a 1/2" too wide, but that is for the bottom mounting brackets. I have more room at the bottom and I should be able to trim the mounting brackets if I need to. Fortunately I still have to build the radiator support, so I can make the new radiator fit, it should fit inside the grill area. But if not, there may be grill shell modification taking place as well! The new radiator is suppose to be here by mid next week. Just ordered new gauges as well. I used to have a little money...Guess I still do until the Visa bill comes! Gene
You may want to check out 39-47dodgetrucks.com This site is devoted to those trucks re is a mix of restorers and rodders. I have a ‘42 Fargo.
Gene You know this I'm sure but for those that don't, some form of rubber cushioning is highly recommended on aluminum radiators regardless of brand.
Fortunateson, About the only things I am using on this truck that is still stock will be the hood, the upper grill shell, and the paperwork. Everything else has been modified or changed. DDDenny, Yea, I learned my lessons about mounting any radiator solid back in my dirt track days. This one will be bolted solid to a radiator support that will attach to the frame with rubber bushings. Gene
I had my original radiator re-cored with new updated core (suppose to be 30% more efficient). It has worked well so far with my 327 small block and I didn't have to change the mount or anything. I am using an electric fan. Gil
The Jalopy Journal
