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Hot Rods S10 t5 behind sbc

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by model A hooligan, Feb 18, 2018.

  1. okay guys before I start,I know how to search,I have not found the info exactly so I figured to ask directly.

    Yes I'm aware a t5 isn't the strongest,but mine is a WC and my sbc is pretty low hp. I would say at 250 or so. Could be less. In a light weight model A.

    So question is,going from a th350 in a channeled 29 coupe with a sbc, got a few questions, first what do I need to do to a 93 Wc s10 trans to fit the sbc? I know a standard Chevy/Muncie pattern bellhousing. But what flywheel? What clutch? And do I need to cut the pilot shaft and trim a bit off the clutch hub to get the clutch to work,

    Also, being channeled,and a size 13 foot,and a f1 steering column,I don't have much room to work with for pedals. Is it better to go hydraulic,pedals mounted from the dash, and remove my 'pinto' style under the floor set up? Again,I've searched but havnt found what I really needed. Any help is appreciated and smart remarks don't help me. Thanks.



    On a side note, I've got a flathead v8 (sepperate project) with a cornhusker adapter to mount a t5 but it's for a Chevy pattern and for that project I have a ford pattern t5. Is there an adapter? (Not to be confused with the project listed above. These are separate builds/combos)
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    If its a bad ass hotrod, and not a road car; long trips that rely on good fuel mileage, put a strong 4 speed in.
     
  3. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

  4. Muncie is not an option. Crossmember in the car and seating position will not fit a side shifter. Nor does my pocketbook to afford a Muncie. I'd like the overdrive also. It's also used for Friday night meets and Saturday treks to shows out of town. It's not raced. Leaned on a little once in a while. I've owned MANY mustangs with t5's and never hurt one. And I'm sure my mach1 put out much more hp.
     
    loudbang likes this.

  5. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,079

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    You didn't search hard enough.. All the info your asking for is right here on the hamb..
     
  6. Also as mentioned I've got the cornhusker adapter already. Not looking to buy yet another bell housing. My understanding the input shaft needs to be trimmed anyway,an adapter would negate the need for that I'd think.

    My other option is to get a sbc to ford pattern trans and just swap the transmission's between the 2 projects. But I do not know what flywheel/clutch to use on that sbc/ford trans combo. Both are 26 spline inputs though
     
  7. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    If your s10 WC had the Gm pattern, that is one hard to find gearbox. In certain situations the imput shaft does need to be shortened, but check before doing so. You can check with metal straight edge from back of block to pilot bearing, and same from bell housing to imput shaft. I think most guys used the 10" clutch from the WC 88-92 camaro application.
     
    craig b blue and loudbang like this.

  8. Yep! It is very rare to find a wc that's Chevy pattern. Couldn't believe it myself but it checks out as such by the data tag.

    Good idea on the straight edge idea. I wonder what pilot bearing to use

    I would use it with the flathead adapter if I could find a way to get the ford pattern t5 to mate to my sbc since it's more prone to breaking a trans and those are easier to find. But so far I've seen 4.3 astrovan bellhousing work but there is NONE to be had. Checked the big auction site too. I heard irod duke bells work too but again, none to be had anywhere!!!
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2018
    loudbang likes this.
  9. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 3,519

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    I’m not a BowTie person by any means , but I do know this works and it is plenty strong enough to drive with moderation with for many miles . I had a bud with a 32 Woody , drove his many a mile no issues . I know he used a standard SB bell housing and fabed linkage from F1 crossmember and pedals . Just keep researching , info has got to be on the HAMB somewhere . Good Luck , let us know what you determine to make it workout for your swap .
     
  10. have you read the thread on T5's from flathead ernie? might give you the answers. I would think that a sbc flywheel with a S10 clutch and disc would work so long as the splines match on the WC T5. Is the tail set up for a manual speedo?
     
  11. Subscribe.
    I have a SBC stick shift bellhousing , it's yours just pay shipping.
    Pm me for information .
     
    big duece likes this.
  12. Ansen style swing pedals may be your answer for Foot space and you can get the external Slave cyl or go with the Hyd throw out bearing. Personally I'd go with the Hyd. bearing. Gives more room for exhaust. Last I knew you can still buy the dual Brake/Clutch master over the counter. Both GM trucks and International trucks used this system.
    [​IMG] The Wizzard
     
    mad mechanic and porknbeaner like this.
  13. You just use a standard flywheel, and buy a cultch disc with the proper spline. With your HP estimate I would say that a 9-9.5" clutch is going to be more than plenty. 10" clutches are easy to find too but I doubt you'll need the surface for a 10.

    I am not sure about the input shaft length, I know that we use them behind 235s and have to have a spacer plate but they are easy to find after market.

    Match your pilot bushing to the input shaft end, that may take a little doing.
     

  14. Don't really have the room for those,nor do I want the masters to be outside the firewall.i also don't have exhaust under the car. I have lake headers
     
  15. Do you already have plans for Clutch and Brake pedals?
    The Wizzard
     
  16. Poh
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 266

    Poh
    Member
    from Quincy,Ca.

    I trimmed about 9/16” off of mine out of s10, use swing pedals as mentioned above, and a Howe hydraulic throw out bearing,


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  17. Poh
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 266

    Poh
    Member
    from Quincy,Ca.

    On the other hand, a buddy of mine didn’t have to trim at all, I believe his came out of a gmc mini van


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  18. About as tight as it can get but works.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Just more Food for thought.
    The Wizzard
     
    46international and Poh like this.

  19. Well I've got the speedway pedal and master under the floor from just running my th350

    So I really don't know
     
  20. I've heard different info about how much to trim, some say 1/2 and 3/4 off the bearing retainer.

    Btw I think you are close to me I've seen your car for sell online
     
    Poh likes this.
  21. Have you considered just adding a Clutch pedal to existing hardware and using a Cable instead of hard rods?
     
    46international likes this.

  22. Yes,but 2 problems. Not sure what type of cable to use/look for. And 2 it's a speedway pedal unit that bolts to the side of the frame. There's no real way of adding to it. Only thing I could do is ad a swinging pedal.

    I wish I could use a set of swinging pedals, but my dash is welded in. So the masters would be outside of the firewall to fill them. It's channeled so the masters would be pretty close to the valve cover. Also firewall is sunk In a ways so I doubt I could even get to the lids.

    Here's some really crappy pictures I took.
    My feet are pulled way back to take the pic of the pedal. Not sure how I'd even have a clutch pedal being that the frame is basically where I'd need it. It's really cramped in this car
     

    Attached Files:

  23. Phone is having issues so the pics are few and sucky
     

    Attached Files:

  24. I have a Channeled A Roadster myself. I understand just a little what your dealing with. Consider this, Ansen style unit mounted and the Master converted to inside under the dash. To fill master connect hard lines with about 12" of bradded steel so you can drop master down to fill. How often are you going to need to do that?
     
  25. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,250

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What is that dual master cylinder from? I may have a need for one.
     
  26. I probably should warn ya I don't think like Normal builders. The Wizzard
     
  27. 60's GM and International Trucks
     

  28. We,ya know I guess it wouldn't be often, and if I moved my fuse box, I suppose that could work. Be a slight pain in the butt to check but, I suppose I could try that. Have 3 hard brake lines come down inside the firewall and exit the floor. Give me room to slide my clutch foot slightly under the pedal while on the highway I suppose.

    I know as it is, about 1 hour of driving and I'm VERY uncomfortable and cramped up. Worried about the shifter also. As it is my leg rests up against itotherwise the wheel will hit my leg
     
  29. Not sure if a dual brake master would fit under there. I'm sure a little clutch one would though
     
  30. If your going to work with that Idea I'd look at mounting the Bracket upside down so pedal tabs are on the bottom. Now lengthen the Top leg of each pedal and it becomes a Push system. Then with DOM tube I'd extend the 4 mount holes so master mounts inboard. You'll then need to shorten pedals below pivot mount to suit your needs. I think it can work. General idea that is.
    The Wizzard
     

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