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Projects Help 1947 chevy fleetline 3 speed swap

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by leadfootloon, May 11, 2016.

  1. @belair what trans did you put in the car? I want to stick with the 3 speeds just because of the column shift but if its not worth it I will get over it. How well did the master cylinder fit since it is bigger.
    P.S. I would love to buy your car but it's not part of the lords plan;). Thanks for the help brother.
     
  2. Also Is the old 216 going to handle the 60 to 65 mph with different gears in the rear? I hear mixed reviews on that one I have a full pressure 1957 235 core for the future but wanted to get the car open drive and get the brakes cleaned up.
    There is a hamber selling a full rebuild 318 3 speed shipped for 300 dollars that doesn't seem bad. Thanks Ronny
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2016
  3. I don't know had a double post? Ronny
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2016
  4. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,013

    belair
    Member

    @leadfootloon
    I have a th 350 trans and a b&m Unimatic shifter. Go Lockar or make the linkage and try to use you column shifter with the auto. Maybe a column from a 50-52 power glide car would work. If you want to use the 216 but convert to an open driveshaft, you will have to go with a standard, or MAYBE a 55 chevy PG (open driveshaft). But I don't know. You would be better served in my opinion, to do the engine, trans and rear end all at once. If you are going with a 235 as your engine of choice, I think you will have to settle for a first generation power glide (ugh) or an adaptor ($) for another, more modern trans. If you go with a 55-57 chevy rear, you have a good range of gears to choose from. If you use the 216 with hiway friendly gears, it will have difficuly getting off the line. (No such thing as a free lunch). The 216 is just not enough motor to give you modern speeds and dependability, in my opinion and experience. 55mph is top end of its safe power range. The 235 with a standard will be a good choice, then 3:55 gears with 15 inch wheels. (That was what chevy used in 55) the 3:23 gears would be more highway friendly, but the 235 might need to make more power ( not hard to do- dual carbs and exhaust ) to pull it. But the the duals might interfere with the master cylinder.
     
  5. inthweedz
    Joined: Mar 29, 2011
    Posts: 580

    inthweedz
    Member

    Saw this on Facebook, the company is in Cambridge, New Zealand.. Did a google and found their address... www.valleycustom.co.nz/ 12809628_979290135493046_2430459753668606842_n.jpg
     
    Hnstray and leadfootloon like this.
  6. That is really cool inthweedz but it cost a grand and I have found a 318 rebuilt for 300. Cool set up.
     
  7. When using that 318 muncie with a new bell. What clutch do I use. Do I start new and get the hole kit or what. I starting to pull this thing apart now that winter is soon to show.
     
  8. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,657

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    May I ask why you want to do this? If you want better rear gears you can use Chev Powerglide rear end up to 1954 for 3.55 gears, or buy the same gears brand new.

    Jeeps used a 6 bolt wheel pattern, so did Nissan pickups and so did Chev trucks up to 1971.

    There were 2 trans bolt patterns. Some 42 up, especially pickup trucks, had the same bolt pattern as the 55 up open drive trans. You may already have one.

    If you change the rear end you will have to change the 'floating' spring setup. Or add trailing arms.
     
  9. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,657

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    For the clutch you will need a clutch plate of the right diameter that has the same splines as the transmission. If you are lucky the old one will work.
     
  10. There are a few reasons for dumping the stock rearend.
    1. The brakes are very pricey to rebuild
    2. The bolt pattern will be 4 3/4 on 5
    3. With the kit I found it has new leaf springs and brackets for gas shocks.
    Also the front disk kit are 4 /34 on 5. I've gone around and around with this and I'm thinking this is the best for the money.
     
    belair likes this.
  11. Hay @belair what did you get to fit nicely for tires in your fleetline. I'm going with the 55 rear and need to start looking for wheels. You said 15" rims what about the tire. Thanks Ronny
     
  12. I have a '51 that was updated to an open drive line, with a 1959 stick 3 speed & overdrive.
    Engine is a 1961 235. Bell is from a '58 to '62 235. Tranny is a B.W. 1959 Chevy 3 speed stick w/overdrive, rear is a Ford 9".
    Linkage rods, going from steering column to transmission had to be modified to work correctly.
    Engine is shown in my avatar.
     
    leadfootloon likes this.
  13. Nice Bob I'm going with muncie 318 3 speed. 1957 235 and 1955 chevy rearend.
     
    bobg1951chevy likes this.
  14. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,013

    belair
    Member

    They were somewhere between 255 to 235 R15s, mounted on Corvette Ralley wheels. I'm sure about the wheels. The tires were too big, rubbed just a bit on the inner fenders. I sold the car, so I cant go check. Six or 5 inch wheels might make all difference.
     
  15. Thanks belair, that gives me good starting point.
     
  16. So I've been plugging away at my swap almost ready to start putting it back together. But on another thread I read that the shift fork is in different locations on the bellhousing in the late 50's a car and a truck are different. @bobg1951chevy can you fill me in on this. I have a bell from a 1957 pickup and don't have a car to compare it to.
     
  17. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    You will most likely end up with some misaligned "geometry" in your clutch linkage/different bell housing. Many guys use a few links of chain to make up for the misalignment; the chain adds some level of "flexibility" over straight rods that bind up. DZAUTO over on ChevyTalk.Org, in the 49-54 forum, had pics in the sticky section of the forum under engine swaps. If it's no longer there, he will answer personal messages, and has photos of how he assembled his linkage.
    I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  18. Follow the info that 56sedandelivery spoke of, in his post.
    DZ Auto has a library of pics, have seen the clutch linkage and chain link, in one of his photos.
    Here it is... scroll down on the thread until you see clutch linkage pics from DZAUTO.
    http://server1.chevytalk.com/~tony/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/312053/
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2017
  19. Sixhundred sixteen
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 37

    Sixhundred sixteen
    Member
    from Utah

    I think the '47 is also a 'selector' shift transmission................
     
  20. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    This is incorrect regarding Chevrolet transmissions. It is correct for Pontiac, Olds and Buick.

    Ray
     
  21. Sixhundred sixteen
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 37

    Sixhundred sixteen
    Member
    from Utah

    Even in the 40's ?
     
  22. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    I did't catch this earlier. That trans is actually a Muncie 319 ; basically just a Muncie 318 with a Borg Warner R-10 overdrive unit added. I have two of those to anyone interested; I also have the Hurst floor shift for those transmissions, that are't made any longer by Hurst. In using the Muncie 318/319, the 4 bolt side cover is swapable 49-65 (even later in some trucks), and that makes matching up your column shift linkage easier (you could even use your 47 side cover with a 65 trans even though one is closed drive-line, the other open). My personal opinion is, if you're going to be changing out the engine/trans/rear-end, start with a later style six of the 194-215-230-250-292 family. Smoother, more power, easier to find/cheaper parts for them, lighter weight, more hop up parts available, etc. Using the Chevy II/Nova bellhousing will get you a better angle throw-out bearing fork placement. But, I know how dedicated some are to the 216-235-261 family of engines, and then there's the "traditional" aspect of them. For the $300.00 you're talking about for a Muncie 318 trans, you could find a bunch of later Saginaw's, and pick from one of 3 different gear ratios available with them, and they're cheap too; full synchro also. You could also keep your column shifter with a little modification. JMO. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2018
    Sixhundred sixteen likes this.
  23. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Yes, from the introduction of column shift, Chevrolet never used the selector style shift mechanism. Among GM makes, it was only used by Pontiac, Olds and Buick.

    Ray
     
    belair likes this.
  24. Sixhundred sixteen
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 37

    Sixhundred sixteen
    Member
    from Utah

    Respectfully, I have to disagree. One picture shows a '40-'48 side cover with one shaft which operated the shift lever via the vacuum assist unit. A selector rod operated a bell crank on top of the trans to position the shift lever for Low-Rev or 2nd- 3rd. - The other pic shows a '49 -'54 side cover with the two conventional shift levers. These are from a Motor's manual. ( There is a pic I can provide if you wish to see the lever mechanism at the lower end of the steering column ).
     

    Attached Files:

  25. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Well, I have to apologize and eat large serving of humble pie! The photos from the manual are proof enough that you were, and are, correct. But I am stunned to find I was wrong about that shift arrangement. Having owned a few Chevys ( two ‘40s and one ‘41) of that era and having installed a trans in my high school chum’s ‘47 (about 1960), I thought I knew what I was talking about. Obviously not!

    Guess my memory is even worse than I realized. :confused:

    Thank you for your Gentlemanly correction of my embarrassing error. :oops:

    Ray
     
    Sixhundred sixteen likes this.
  26. Sixhundred sixteen
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 37

    Sixhundred sixteen
    Member
    from Utah

    I must say I was beginning to doubt myself; I can totally empathize on the memory loss.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  27. Patrick Beasley
    Joined: Mar 22, 2020
    Posts: 3

    Patrick Beasley

    Trying to get a little help about this fluiddrive trans, torque converter making clu king noise
     
  28. the more info the better and pictures are always the best.
     
  29. buick bill
    Joined: Dec 18, 2008
    Posts: 856

    buick bill
    Member
    from yreka;ca

    was this post woke from the dead? did the swap ever get done ? and what does the fluid drive have to do with anything ! ive got 2 late 60s/early 70s Saginaw 3 spds . one im planning on putting in my 41 sd coup , that now has a 235 and 62 p/u bell /clutch , and one im planning to put in my 64 gmc replacing the Muncie 318 shit box !! im fairly certain both will bolt to the bell housings and clutches . the 41 still has the orig. 3 pd that bolted up to the 62 p/u bell . no trans mount.im putting in a 68 nova rear at the same time . that should be the same width . am I missing something ??
     
  30. I ended up going with the t5 swap after all the research I did.
     

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