Projects 1932 Ford 3 Window with 389 Pontiac

First off, Congrats on getting to be the caretaker of that.
Secondly, It's all been said here already, don't "change"
the car. The cool factor is off the charts, never let go of that

 

The reason I wrote what I did was

All the driveline is intact the car is pretty cherry, usally a channeled 3w means most the subrails are intact and it has a plywood floor in it which means it's actually easier to do a steel floor and put it back stock height on frame( much more room in cabin area for someone over 5'3" the reason I say 283 is they are cheap and will bolt right in with adaptor and it fits where the flathead fit grill can stay in stock location..as you can see the poncho is a bit long... still cool but long all this makes for a basically bolt together car most value and be budget minded

 

No need to go to a 9" & disc brakes, just go through what you have. It has 40's ford hydraulic brakes, which are fine for a light car. Plus it doesn't have to be expensive. There are guys on here who would love to have an authentic truly traditional car, what this site is about. Alot of knowledge here to help you along, and some local Hambers would surely take a look and evaluate what you have and give you some guidance.

 

Very nice, I wouldn't change a thing. I would just get it running reliably and safely.

 

I'm not one to go all sappy over a 32 like many but that is one cool car. I'm a Pontiac guy but I would make one suggestion. I would absolutely leave it Pontiac but you can get a good running 50's Pontiac for a fraction of your rebuild quotes. You can swap in your intake. Start looking, you can buy a complete car for less than the rebuild costs and then part the rest out. Find a two door and the doors, and quarters and seats are sought after to get some of the money back. If you find a 57-59 you have a sought after rear end also.

58-59's don't have the doors people are looking for but you would upgrade to a 370- 389 and your intake would still work and no one could tell the difference.

I wish I was closer or I would be going to get this myself.

https://yakima.craigslist.org/cto/d/1957-pontiac-4-door-safari/6486922498.html

 

With the water pump connected to the front of the heads, (reverse flow cooling) it's much earlier engine than '68
1955-1959 - 59 was the last year
This link will get you started
http://www.pontiacsafari.com/EngineCooling/



Theses tailights

 

It's getting better. The Buick lights look right, how do they fit? The seat back looks like it will clean up, how about the bottom? Frame looks clean (maybe a little degunking) and the firewall, only half bad. Is it necessary to replace it when it will have to be modified because of the channel? While sorting these out, look for a running engine, get the carbs checked, rebuilt etc. And start going through the rest of the running gear and consider a basic rewire. And Don't be afraid to ask for advice!!!

 

I'll check into a Stock firewall that was in a channeled car if you want to go that route. Bob

 

Ken, take this as you want, but listen to the experienced guys on here. I don't think you realize what you have there. Take a breath and do some research before dumping a ton of money into the car. If you listen to what the majority of the guys are telling you, you will put less money into the car and it will be worth more money in the end. Your dad will also appreciate that you have kept his vision.
Aaron

 

Add me to the list of guys saying this thing is a real treasure and any modifications you do to it would be a crime. Your engine rebuild quotes are the "fuck off, kid" price of guys who don't want to mess with it. Should be able to do it for half of that.

New tires and brakes and suspension bushings (assuming the suspension is laid out properly) and a complete mechanical rebuild but leaving or carefully preserving everything else on the car. Everything cleaned and waxed or polished. That's it. Buick tail lights.

Pontiac motor bolted to the old 3 speed with an adapter and a banjo rear, that's really cool stuff there. And it looks like that's the original seat frame with an old custom upholstery job on it (worth a TON of money, but don't ever part with it).

I would consider this not-negotiable.

 

I just had to read this thread again. What a great looking car. Clean it up and get the engine running is all it needs other than making sure is stops and steers. I will trade you my first born for it, but you would have to catch him first..

 

You could have Vanpelts rebuild the trans. Check out the guy that offered the stock firewall above. Have you taken the valve covers off? Might want to see what is under there. I would only rebuild what you have and get it on the road. That seat will clean up.

 

It would be worth it to install flame throwers just to see the look on your Dad and uncles faces!!!

 

Ok 99% Sure the Engine is a 1955 Pontiac 287. The "Strato Streak". Thanks for the Pontiac link 31Vicky. I was able to figure out the engine stamp code, and verify with the date stamp code by the distributor. Still weird the block has a GM 68 casting number but oh well. Here is another goofy ad-on. This is a pic of the radio and CB antenna mounting area. I spoke with my Dad for an hour about this car and its history. You guys have given me great questions to ask him. I found out the rear end and trany are from a 40's ford truck, he never really liked the rear end due to it being a little to wide. It was really cool to discuss the tech aspects of the car with him. Again thanks for your input and questions.

 

The seat frame appears to be the original 3-window seat frame. This is a rare and valuable piece itself. The pan under the seat also seems to be the original item.
The late '40's rear is wider than the earlier rears, but often the wider rear is required on channeled cars to have enough tire clearance to the body.

 

Widest banjo rear is 61" 36-41 is 59.5 and I think 32-34 is 58.5 certainty nothing that can't be fixed with a wheel backspace

I see a torque tube so its earlier than 42 if it's a truck..as they went open driveshaft then , to fix the trans the guts from a 40-48 car trans can be used ... usally side shift transmissions can be bought cheap and have had a easier life

 

Like several members have already said, I too would stick with the Pontiac in order to maintain the car's heritage. I think you'd probably second guess yourself forever more if you were to change it.

 

Loving this neat old Hot Rod! Like others have said, put it back the way it was, keeping the original charm and heritage as your Dad remembers.
Also, please keep the tunneled tail lights and antenna mount. These are era correct and were very popular. Put an antenna in the front hole, and weld a short tube to the other hole (finish flush). Then clamp a hose to the tube and run it out thru the floor to drain the water out of the recessed cup. Keep us posted!

 

Add another tally mark to the "keep it as is" group. A '32 3-window coupe is one of the most desired cars out there and you have one sitting right in front of you. From my monitor it seems like it's very solid and rust free, it likely would clean up fairly well with some time and serious (but not too serious! that's how things get ruined!) elbow grease. It won't look brand new but it will get rid of that 55 year old layer of dust and really see what's underneath. If your pops kept it all as Ford engineered it on the chassis, which I suspect he did given the front wishbone is intact and installed on the factory location on the K-member, then your life will be much much easier getting this thing on the street. Here's a quick list of things I would do first and foremost;

• Fresh tie rod ends (only if the current ones are sloppy and/or won't take any grease)
  
• brake and fuel lines
• wiring
• King pins and bushings (if they have slop)
• new zerk fittings all around since the decades old grease has likely solidified and will make lubing the chassis a chore
• new brake shoes, cylinders and hardware (new drums if the current ones are out of machining spec)
• drain the lube clean/flush out the transmission
• fresh lube in the rear axle (may currently be filled with 600W lube, it's oil that's basically the consistancy of grease, but regular 80w-90w gear oil can be substituted)
  
• Clean, lube and adjust the steering gear if it has excess play

As far as the engine goes, some serious shopping around is needed, those two shops are basically telling you to hit the bricks. There are still real machine shops out there that can do you up right for half or more what they quoted you.

You have something special that is out of reach for many people in this hobby who would love to be the caretaker of such a car. Read, research and do your pops car true justice as a reflection of the period it was built, it will take him right back to that time, that should be your end goal overall.

 

Ken,
You are brand new here.
You already got lots of input.
You have a once in a lifetime opportunity
that many guys around here have spent years
looking for! You have a one of one,
not a cookie cutter like all the others.
Plus you have all the info on the car as it last was.
Plus the car is talking to you.
Just follow the car. Just work with what you have.
Nobody today is even thinking of building a channeled
fendered 32, and surely not with Buick tail lights!
You've got one from the past, that already
lived the life. Just put all the pieces back, add what you need to
get it safe and road worthy and drive the wheels off it!
And yes, leave the Pontiac!
If you have the time, read the "Snoopy" revival thread.
Nobody understands this stuff better than Jer.
He added thread #9. He is Denns1989, and his thread
can be accessed there!
Good luck on your revival!!

 

Awesome score on the shop tools $100.! In case You're not aware. Ryan, The creator of the Best site on the internet IMO, Has posted on Your thread... Get the heads off that Engine!!! I want to see how bad or good it is... The tension is killing Me

 

Please Please Please don't turn it into a shiny new street rod! Preserve it as the great piece of history that it is. I know it takes a good while to understand the difference between a street rod and a traditional rod but don't get in a hurry and make rash decisions. Not saying there is anything wrong with street rods, but don't butcher this one! I feel the same way about rodding a nice complete stocker and I am sure there are many here that would disagree with that but I won't do it. I just love cars. Period. My 29 AV8 Tudor is a piece of history and I am preserving it the way it was built in 1958. I have stockers, street rods, traditional rods, muscle cars etc. All different, but equal in my eyes. Don't change yours. Just fix it.

Dave

 

Another vote for leave it as built in the '50's with Poncho power and early ford drive train, that Deuce is a time capsule that needs to be preserved not messed up with a SBC, disc brakes, and a 9"......vomit!

 

WOW! What a score ya got right there.....Another vote to keep it the way it was built. Just fix the things that need be to make it a safe ride. If the motor is toast find another one of the same year and make and have it built. Rebuild the carbs and use the air cleaners you have along with valve covers on the original motor. You just need to understand what you have is a real deal old hot rod that needs to be saved as it was built back in the day.
If you really want a flashy one put this one up for sale as is. It would bring a lot of $$$$ as it is and my bet is you can buy a driver street rod for what you can get for it.
It is your car so I know you can do what ever you want.....but my vote is to keep it the way it was.
Good luck and welcome to the HAMB

 

I will jump in with the "Please keep it as original as possible" crowd. What you have there is a car built with details very specific to the late 50s/early 60's style. Survivors from that era are rare as hens teeth and the epitome of cool. People go out of their way just to capture the essence of what you have right in front of you. Case in point, the recessed aerials look beautifully done. Here are the ones on my coupe and a random custom shot recently:


I have gone to great pains to keep my coupe within that period. This doesn't mean great cost. It also doesn't mean sacrifice of any performance. I've included a photo of my coupe below. Everything on that car is from '59 or earlier. It turns hard, hauls ass, and stops great. Even with the drum brakes, 1940 steering, and early Cadillac engine. I have less than 15k in that car TOTAL. If you take a step back and really immerse yourself before going for it, you can have that car back to its original glory lickety split and it will EASILY be the king of the effing jungle wherever you take it. What you have there in this short time period has caught the eye of the owner of this site and also one of the elite Kustom car collectors in this world, plus a few really respected members of this community, not just on this forum, these guys all know each other in real life and we all agree there is something special there. If you're up for it, dig in and these guys will all be here for advice! Good luck man! That's a GREAT car you have!

 

To be honest work with what you got! and I agree with alot of people here, use what is in the car and make it road worthy. The chassis and the body look solid. It would be like a running time machine.

 

Fuck this car rules. I love those cool sculpted details. It has the bones to be something REALLY RAD. Everyone has beat the topic to death.. but please keep it true to the vision it was built to originally. Can't wait to see what you do with it.

 

That car is killer. I love 100 miles North of Lewiston, I will show these pics to some guys here and see if they recognize the car. Wish I was closer to you (I am in Spokane), I would love to help you get that car going.

I'm thrifty and somewhat mechanical. If that car was mine and I had your goal, I would shop CL for a used Pontiac engine. Not sure how different a 350/389/400/455 is, but if the mounts are the same, everything else can be adapted to work. I would bet you could find a good runner for under a grand (except maybe a 455). In the meantime, pull the heads and pan and see what's wrong with it. It could be something like a stuck valve or something very simple...or it may be junk. BUT...I would keep that car what it is for the most part. Please, for the love of God use those Buick tail lights. and everything else. That seat is so killer. PLEASE don't do too much with it until you really start honing in on your stage 2 goal. That car is really special, and really valuable. It's got a lot of value being an old hotrod. The more you change or take away, the less it is. I know you don't want to sell it, but I don't want you to be 10 years down the road and think "I really wish I had left this or that but just didn't know what I was doing". Feeling me?

And guys are right, you don't need 30K to do that car. I'd have that car on the road for a few grand.

Get new shoes and wheel cylinders, king pin kit, shackles front and rear if it needs em. New rubber brake lines. Run new steel brake lines and fuel line. Gas tank (if bad) could be any small tank secured in or under the trunk. Wiring one of these is extremely basic. Don't worry too much about the body or interior/glass. Just concentrate on the mechanicals. I would bet the trans and rear end is good...unless they were blown up. Just check the fluid. The engine and correct tires/wheels will the most expensive part. But don't get too far ahead of yourself. Tear into it and see what you have. I've gotten a lot of old cars and trucks back on the road. They always need the same things as a bare minimum:

brakes
rubber hoses and belts
ignition parts
bearings packed
complete fuel system cleaned (tank, lines, fuel pump and carbs)
tires
everything greased and lubed

If you need help on anything, send me a message or call/text 509-869-0266

BTW that engine shouldn't cost more then 3K to build, and even that sounds pretty high...but early engines are a lot more then later engines.

 

WOW!!!!
thats a sexy example of what this site is all about
so many opinions but its your car, be as true to yourself, your dad and the car as possible
realize what you have and start from there.
everything you need is on that car
That firewall is even savable with the some tasteful metal work.