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Projects 57 3100 build and beginning

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by DeezCustoms, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. DeezCustoms
    Joined: May 1, 2006
    Posts: 24

    DeezCustoms
    Member

    While I’m fully aware that I could most likely find a lot of my answers through numerous forum searches, I’m hoping this post and soon to be thread becomes much more. Although I have been a member of the forums for years, I’ve always lurked but have never contributed much as I feel there are so many other people with more knowledge than myself. Well, I think it’s about time I start sharing and I have the perfect place to start.
    I finally got one that I’ve been wanting for quite awhile. While I’ve had a bunch of cars both classic and not, I’ve finally made it to lucky number 13.. . Ladies and gentlemen, I got my hands on a 57 Chevy 3100 from New Mexico. While it’s not special to some, the fact that I snatched it up in North Chicagoland is the best part. While you can see most from the photos, it’s a fairly straight and complete truck. It even runs and drives. While some parts are obviously not original, the goal is not to make it that way. I’m hoping to keep it looking mainly the way it is now, while going through the mechanics completely. That, and I’m shooting to have a really nice interior. So, everyone, be prepared for the story as I slowly go through it as this is the beginning.
    IMG_20180210_140145.jpg Underside2.JPG IMG_20180210_140156.jpg Engine Bay.JPG To start it all off I’m going to do what I do with every new project and obtain a factory service manual from back in the day. If anyone has one for the cheap or knows where to download one, please let me know. Otherwise I may be taking the eBay route. Lastly, where’s the best and most “budget friendly” place to buy parts? I see a ton of different options but wondering who had the best luck where. More posts, photos, and questions to come. Thanks for putting up with me, everyone.
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,040

    squirrel
    Member

    I usually get restoration parts from Classic Parts. I guess that LMC works also.

    I would look for a used shop manual on ebay. Should not have to pay much, if condition isn't that important to you, and you're slightly patient.

    http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955truck2/index.htm

    Someone already swapped in a 64-70 pickup rearend, eh? along with the later motor.

    have fun!
     
    czuch likes this.
  3. DeezCustoms
    Joined: May 1, 2006
    Posts: 24

    DeezCustoms
    Member

    Thank you, Jim! One of my questions was going to be about the rear end. Wanted to know so I could start buying gaskets, etc. That, and I want to get casting numbers to start figuring out ratios, etc.

    Motor is said to be a 68 327 Camaro motor. Not sure if that's accurate, but once its out of the pictured garage and in my shop I can start getting more numbers to figure it out.
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,040

    squirrel
    Member

    The heads have bolt holes in the ends, which is a 1969-up thing, so it may or may not be a 68 Camaro motor, or parts of it may or may not be. There are numbers stamped on the block, in front of the pass side head, that will help start to identify it (if they were not removed during block remachining).

    The rear end...you probably want to take it apart and inspect bearings, inspect axles, inspect the pinion gear for cracks at the base of the teeth, etc. While you have it apart you can read the numbers stamped on the ring gear, they will tell you the ratio. Or just do the both tires one turn/count driveshaft turns trick if you want to know the ratio quickly. Most were 3.73, some were not.
     
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  5. If you are looking for parts, do a google search for suppliers. There are as many different prices as there are dealers. A lot of stuff may come from off shore anyway, so it really comes down to cost.

    I have used LMC. If nothing else their catalogs have a kind of exploded view of assemblies. That makes it worth while to pick one up alone.
     
  6. DeezCustoms
    Joined: May 1, 2006
    Posts: 24

    DeezCustoms
    Member

    Yeah, I've come across LMC and a couple others. I LOVE the layout of LMC. I purchased a lot of Austin Healey and Mini Cooper parts throught VB, which I think is owned by the same company. Good stuff, I appreciate the input.
     
  7. DeezCustoms
    Joined: May 1, 2006
    Posts: 24

    DeezCustoms
    Member

    You are correct. According to owner, block is 68, heads were different/later. You can see the slight difference in color from whatever he slapped on there. Car should be delivered tomorrow, so I'll try to get some casting #'s up posted.

    Rear end I appreciate the advice on. I'm hoping to make this somewhat of a daily/shop truck. Also, somewhat family friendly (at least the wife will drive it. . .) I will definitely check out the internals. Anyone have any idea, assuming it may be a 3.73, what final drive ratio will be with the trans being a TH350? Or would that also depend on the year of the trans? Just trying to figure out if this is going to be a red light to red light truck, or something I could actually take on the freeway. Thank you all so much in advance!
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,040

    squirrel
    Member

    TH350 is a 1:1 transmission, in high gear. You can go on the freeway with 3.73 gears, they used to be called "highway gears" by the drag racing crowd :) but the engine will be spinning some rpm. It's how all trucks used to be, it's not a problem. Unless you believe it is.
     
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  9. You mentioned buying gaskets for the rear. If it were mine, I would get it road worthy and drive it. If the rear makes any noise or otherwise gives me problems, then I would invest in it. For now just change the oil perhaps.

    Think of it this way. You have an engine, transmission, and rear axle of unknown condition. Chances are you will get good service from that without any major work, so why tempt fate?
     
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  10. Cosmo49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,554

    Cosmo49
    Member

    Just drive it.
     
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  11. You might want to try "The Truck Shop" in Orange, CA. for parts, better prices than LMC.
     
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  12. ring gap
    Joined: Dec 29, 2017
    Posts: 45

    ring gap
    Member

    nice find!!!!!... I agree i would drive it before you take it apart that will give ya a good Ideal how it runs and what will make it run and drive better..;)
     
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  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,040

    squirrel
    Member

    The idea to drive it first, is a good one...

    but even more important is to figure out what you want the truck to be, when you're done with it. Also, you probably want to figure out how long you want it to be apart, before you can enjoy it in it's final form.

    Just a word of warning, I started on my 1957 Suburban in 1998, and didn't get to drive it until 2013. I should have thought a bit more about how much I really wanted to do to it, and how difficult it would be to accomplish that.
     
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  14. Sheep Dip
    Joined: Dec 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,572

    Sheep Dip
    Member
    from Central Ca

    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Impossible... all 327's are out of a Corvette!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^:D
     
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  15. DeezCustoms
    Joined: May 1, 2006
    Posts: 24

    DeezCustoms
    Member

    All good calls. The plan, honestly, for now was pull cover off rear and do fluid. I do plan on just driving it local to see what's really wrong with it and give it a good shake down. Believe me, I'm a big fan of "if it ain't broke don't fix it." I've brought plenty of heaps home and this one is light years ahead of what I have had in the past couple of years. It RUNS and DRIVES and has a title. Even the wife is surprised and supportive of this one, haha.

    That'd be great if it's a vette motor. Guy who sold it too me has 2 67's in his garage as well. It was going to be delivered today so I could post casting numbers, but it got pushed off till tomorrow. Turns out he forgot it's Valentine's day. That's all I'll say about that for now.

    But, as of now, it's run it and see what needs work, and fix that. Again, leaving everything appearance-wise pretty as is except for the interior. Once it's been on the road for awhile and deemed pretty safe and reliable I'll probably do the posies lowering spring kit for it. THANK YOU for all the input so far, gents. Stay tuned tomorrow for a tiny "plot twist."
     
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  16. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,774

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great trucks--have had several-good luck with your project. Lots of good advice from folks--drive it a bit then see what it needs.
     
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  17. MO_JUNK
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 1,197

    MO_JUNK
    Member
    from Rolla, Mo.

    Enjoy your build
     
    DeezCustoms likes this.
  18. Nice looking truck, have fun with it, I just bought one myself.
     
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  19. DeezCustoms
    Joined: May 1, 2006
    Posts: 24

    DeezCustoms
    Member

    Level of enthusiasm is building, and I don't quite know where to start. Slowly, but surely, it'll all be tackled. Truck was delivered today and I couldn't be more excited. There are others who are excited as well. . . my 19 Automotive Technology 2 students who were there to witness the delivery. A huge thanks goes out to Chuck, the seller and delivery driver. There's your little easter egg. I'm a HS shop teacher. Every day I'm learning. The old school, however, I'm always going to be learning. Good news is, I'll have a lot of enthusiastic helpers, but this is not a school funded project so it will only move as quickly as my budget allows. Also, I was able to photograph the numbers on the block near the passenger front of the engine. That will be part of the upcoming photos in the post. Hope you all enjoy; it's been a long day with other things and its time for bed. I'll do my best to get more updates as things move along. Any help with block decoding will be greatly appreciated (basic googling has me thinking its a 307?)

    DSCF4499.JPG DSCF4531.JPG DSCF4583.JPG DSCF4593.JPG IMG_20180215_145036.jpg
     
  20. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,040

    squirrel
    Member

    Yup, looks like a 1968 307 with Powerglide from a full size Chevy. The engine was assembled on June 6th, the car was assembled in Janesville WI. I drove by there last summer.
     
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  21. Subscribed.
     
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  22. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 7,867

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Very straight, clean truck. Dropped axle is the better method for the front, as there's very little travel to start with. Anything done with springs decreases any travel left. Please, no Pinto swaps .....
     
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  23. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 867

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    Check out 67-72chevytrucks.com. There is a sub forum for ‘47-‘59 Chevy trucks. You’ll find EVERYthing thereis to know about these trucks there.

    PS. Your fender emblems are on backwards.
     
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  24. jkski
    Joined: Jan 27, 2009
    Posts: 137

    jkski
    Member

    if you do blow it apart,first thing the whole front will come apart with just a hand full of bolts and if doors are close to aligning with body drill small holes in hinges to realign them when you reassemble them.Nice truck just have fun with it.
     
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  25. hotrodharry2
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 795

    hotrodharry2
    Member
    from Michigan

    I’ve built 2 of these trucks and enjoyed them both. The only mistake I made was selling them, kick myself for not keeping at least 1 if them. I’m sure you’ll have fun with it! Good Luck & Keep us posted.. Did I mention, we like pictures? lol


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  26. How ironic, the 57 I just bought has a 307 in it too...funny stuff 20171209_134847.jpg
     
  27. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,040

    squirrel
    Member

    It used to be the go-to engine when you want to get a truck running, to sell :)
     
    swade41 likes this.
  28. DeezCustoms
    Joined: May 1, 2006
    Posts: 24

    DeezCustoms
    Member

    Thank you for the support and enthusiasm! My beginning auto students started with some of the basic stuff. We began chasing the threads for the seat to temporarily go back in so it's easier moving it around (and sets a better example for the kids than the milk crate that's currently in there, haha). 40 minutes and 3 students could still not remove the rear farm bumper which I for some reason can't stand. So, that is soaking and my propane wrench may help remove that next week sometime. Coolant is in it (and staying in it) which is good because it was low. Here are some pictures, I'll try and get more up tonight.. Also, I'll get those emblems switched, I never would have known. Its these little things you guys notice that blows my mind. Also, students' faces will be blurred per confidentiality policy of our building. My apologies as that will take away from some of the good student-provided photograpy DSCF4603.JPG DSCF4618.JPG DSCF4610.JPG
     
  29. DeezCustoms
    Joined: May 1, 2006
    Posts: 24

    DeezCustoms
    Member

    Well, my apologies as it's been awhile since the last post. With a sick kid, parent teacher conferences, and other life/project obligations, time is thin. Where I left off. . . Farm bumper is off, currently looking for an original replacement. Not looking for chrome, as I plan on painting in. Hopefully something straight if I can find it for the right price. Oil has been changed with a good Rotella, Front wheel bearing repacked and inspected; definitely not original unless Chevy outsourced bearings from Sweden in the 50's. Started sorting through wiring which is a total rats nest, but stuff works. Ordered a new harness from The Truck Shop among some other parts to get things moving. Up next are front brake shoes as the fronts have little meat left on them. Also discovered original color under the emblems which is cool, and got a new dipstick and puke tank ordered. Enjoy the pictures, more to come soon.
     

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  30. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 867

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    Will you swap out those ball wheel bearing for some modern tapered roller bearings? I’d strongly suggest it along with modern tie rod ends.
     

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