Projects 54 Ford Customline daily driver

Discs up front but no power. I called drop n stop em where i got the front spindles and disc conversion. He said easiest way to test the master is plug both outlets and the pedal should be rock hard at the top. Im gonna do this tomorrow first and if the master checks out fine ill go from there in search for leaks


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Rock Auto lists the master cylinder Centric 1316101 ($27.99) for 1967-72 Mustang/Cougar with manual disc brakes this master does not require a proportioning valve guys in the Group have used these in the past but they are getting harder to find because the power brake option is more common.

 

Don't know the specifics of your brake system. Do you have a residual pressure valve in the rear?

 

Brake setup is pretty simple. Dual reservoir master, hard line for the front brakes comes off the master, hits a T fitting, hard lines out to the flex hose to the caliper on both sides. Rear brakes hard line off the master down to a adj prop valve on the frame rail, hard line all the way back to the flex hose from the frame to axle housing, T fitting on the axle and hard lines to each cylinder


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

No residual pressure valve in the system. The whole setup came as a kit so i just bolted in per instructions, but im not sure if theres supposed to be a factory residual valve somewhere? There wasnt one on the car before tearing it all out, after doing some research it looks like a 10# residual valve is needed for the rear drums?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

We had the same problem on my dad’s f100, turns out he had the brake lines reversed on the master, switched the lines and no more problem.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I am no expert but having similar problems on my new build. If you take the rear brake line off at the master and then use a paper clip to probe the outlet of the master you can tell if it has a residual valve built in. (If it goes straight in there is nothing there) . I would probably add the 10# valve anyway.

 

The lines are oriented right on the master, im going down today to test the master like the guy suggested. Would not having a residual valve give me these bleeding issues ?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Yes! I have no valve in mine, ran a quart of fluid through it and still had air. According to what I read you must have a 10# valve in drum brake applications.

 

The master tested fine. Plugged both outlets and the pedal was firm as a rock. I guess ill try the residual valve and hope that solves my issues lol


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

You didn't probe for the internal valve?

 

Make sure the bleeder valves are at the tops of the calipers. Upside-down (installed side to side) are a possibility.

 

Peanut you got it right, i was talking with dave from drop n stop em ( manufacturer of the kit ) and i do indeed have the calipers on the wrong sides. Completely overlooked it. Hopefully ill have them swapped and bled in a few days


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Heres a shot of the bleeder as it sits....


Forgot to take a decent picture, but i took this off my instagram. I bent up a couple j hooks to use on the stock battery tie down. Painted them black as well

 

I think Jeff hit the nail on the head if you didn’t bench bleed it. Also if you combo’d it with PBR.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Woo-hoo!!! Do I win a prize?

Actually, I had just heard an identical problem from a caller on NPR's "Car Talk" this weekend, and guessed the solution before they got to it. What a coincidence!

 

Lol i wish i had a prize to give. Im hoping this is the issue. The manufacturer said it has happened before and this fixes the issue. So fingers crossed itll bleed when i swap them


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I'm rootin' for ya'!

 

Thanks alot Jeff. I always appreciate your info

 

You did a great job on the interior. Love the car

 

I like that look. Thinking of doing something different on my 55 Fairlane grill. Saw a 51 Ford grill that looked pretty cool. Dennis Carpenter has most of the pieces.

 

Had a funeral for a close family friend on saturday so i didnt get anything done untill sunday. Flipped the calipers side to side and the pedal seems to build pressure now which is awesome. Still didnt get a chance to fully bleed them since my buddy that usually helps me was busy but they seem to be fine now

I got the hooks and tie down bracket for the battery buttoned up and stainless acorn nuts on. Also got my battery cables that i made on and routed cleanly



Since i raised the driveshaft tunnel the rear seat needed the hump opened up to sit flush. As you can see theres a 2 inch gap at the bottom of the seat



Bent up a roundstock piece to open up the tunnel on the seat frame



Sits nice and flush. I had to modify the rear of the seat as well in a similar way. I am going to weld in another piece of stock in a similar shape on the inside to use as an anchor for the hog rings



Rear seat is pretty much ready to cover, then i can get the rear side panels in and the rear seat in for good.

 

Buttoned up all the rear seat stuff today so its now officially ready to cover. I didnt notice at first but the drivers side lower flange was rotted so i replaced that today. Heres the old one, or whats left of it



And i got a new one whipped up out of some angle iron and plasma’d some hogring holes really quick



Also heres how the tunnel hump worked out. Used roundstock to form the frame and then another piece of stock inset from that to use as an anchor point for the hog rings



Slapped some paint on it to prevent rust and hog ringed the current cover back around

 

wonderful build- like it all-

 

Im not sure what kind of paint was on my window moldings but it was nasty and would bubble anything i sprayed over it. So i stripped them all with aircraft stripper and sprayed. I shaved the holes for the grab handles and metal finished them, no filler needed. I wish i had some spare coin to chrome these but paint will have to do for now

Stripped




Painted to match the dash




I forgot to take pics of the fronts, but same situation. Not quite done with these tho, the two tone dash will roll into the window moldings...

 

Most of the rust on the passenger side floorboards are caused from leaking heater cores in the 1952-54 Fords I found a little on that side when I pulled the dash out to re-wire and paint it.

 

I think alot of my rust had to do with a leaking windshield, the heater core was in fairl decent shape. I actually had to do a good amount of rust repair on the dash from all the water that got on the backside via the windshield


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My welding table turned into an upholstery table today....



Got the rear seat back buttoned up


And the rear seat bottom in as well




Got a small wrinkle in the middle of the bottom that im not sure will come out, the cover was folded kinda shitty in the package

Also the package tray is in for good

 

Looks like your in the home stretch , you plan on taking this to sled fest ?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Love this car, great work


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk