Hot Rods Period correct 327 build

If I were to do it all over again, I'd run the anti pump-up hydraulic lifters, the L79 cam, and set the pushrods depth to half the lifters depth adj. And never have to chase increasing tappet noise after each run.

 

More info needed. Is it a Saginaw and what 1st gear ratio?

 

I might be going over there tomorrow so i can get the numbers then. For some reason i though he said it has 2 shifters. Does that sound right? it was from behind a 292 inline 6.

 

A manual 3 speed will have two shift lever's on the side of it. One is for R and 1 the other 2 and 3. Take a pic and post it. Also count the number of rings on the input shaft if any. Example

 

Okay. I will do that tomorrow if i have a chance. Will The clutch off the 292 work on a sbc or should i just get a new one?

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...j-rods-std-trw-301-302-pistons-rings.1016379/

 

I wish I lived closer. I’ve already tried to convince my parents on ordering just a set of pistons off of eBay but they won’t buy stuff unless they see it in person so I’m out of luck there.

 

Tom, I may have missed you saying where you are but filling out your profile really helps with deals on parts. Gary

 

Yes it will work providing it's from the same 1971 vehicle or I should say that era 292.

Bummer but some of us have been there. I know I have. Being overly sheltered isn't fun in my experience. I've learned more by making my own mistakes and taking note of those faults than being sheltered from the answer I wasn't allowed to find.

 

Listen to your folks Tom!

 

I'll give credit on this for only one reason. Because I know why your saying it. What is it about 327 piston's Tom should know about and piston's in general. Especially used ones.

 

What I want to know is why did the Guy Take apart the 327 & than
try to sell it on the net.??
If it was me I would Look for another 327 engine that you Could
here hear it Run and then Buy it!

I am running a 327/300 stock engine with a Powerglide.

Just my 3.5 cents

Live Learn & Die a Fool

 

I forgot to say that your Parents are right they been around
a lot Longer & Know a Few Things
and Not everybody are going to tell you the Right Thing
when you are Buying something!

Just My 3.5 cents

Live Learn & Die a Fool

 

Johnny
In Toms' case, I don't have enough (any) information as to the pistons in question.
What I do know is people with much more knowledge and experience than Tom get ripped off EVERYDAY from unscrupulous sellers on THAT Auction Site (TAS).
Pretty easy to buy cheap Egge cast pistons, let them get dusty and dirty, throw them in a generic box and resell them as forged pistons, just using this as a hypothetical scenario.
My general feeling about used stuff in general is "there's a reason they're being sold".
It's a 50/50 deal, just want Tom and others to know that parts purchases should not be decided by price, especially from TAS.
Which leads me to ask "why is it that so many people nowadays only know about TAS" as the only place to get their parts.
Signed cranky old school hot rodder.

 

I'm of the old school --- the scientific method one and the buy books and read them one. One book, well written, on a subject contains some facts, some opinion, and an overview of the subject at hand. To a scientist facts come from measurements, and the old thing about those experiments whose results can be verified if the circumstances are repeated. A lot of us swam to dry land through the hogwash of other's opinions, and grabbed on to knowledge through watching and doing. Trust me on this: being around an older racer, builder, or anyone in the hobby who is open to sharing ideas, tips and tricks, and other know-how gets you further down the road than fumbling around on your own. The H.A.M.B. is a good place to lurk, as well as participate. Some builds on here will turn your head around, and just as the replies to your questions, you'll get plenty of things to think about. But, when you realize the choices you make are yours in the doing department. And, all that seemed wonderful online falls short from the grease, dirt, grime, skinned knuckles, incompatible parts and all the other aspects of hot rods. I'll leave you with one question, did you physically measure the bore and stroke of the engine you have? I always thought a 262 might be cool. If it's bored you could get close to the same dimensions of the first small block. That's even more period piece. And, displacement does determine the class you race in. You'd need a single 500 cfm carburetor for that. Cams should be selected per application. As, they are in any period. Good Luck. And, make sure to put a little money in a sock that you can say is for having your head examined. You can rob it, later on, to buy parts. And, hey! Welcome to the only club worth being a member. Once a car nut: always a car nut. We're American Ingenuity in Motion. Going fast, and going to be faster. As soon as those parts come in.

 

Tom, don’t take this the wrong way, OK? You are young and inexperienced, don’t buy anything else right now, at 15 time is on your side, you have a lifetime ahead of you.
Read everything you can about proper machining of engines and good streetable engine combinations, and that will provide a solid foundation for your future builds. Knowledge is power!
A high compression ratio might impress the local yokels but you won’t be happy with it. Camshaft? I laugh each time I see a post where a guy wants a “lumpy” cam that sounds cool at idle. Whatever they want is OK with me, but do some guys really think it is wise to buy a cam because it sounded cool on YouTube? Used heads can be tough, they can look impressive but if the guides are wasted it can turn out to be what the monkey said when he pissed in the cash register- “This is gonna run into money.”
Revise your Profile to include your location. We don’t want your address, just the city will be fine. I can assure you, there are people that will help and advise you to make some good choices.

 

I've been hopping around this thread trying to figure out the best advice I should give....I've heard a lot of talk about parts, this, that and the other. Lets talk about that big part you bought...the small block. If it's still in one piece why don't you take a few days and see if you can make it run? At 15 a running sbc beats a pile of parts any day! It may smoke it may not, it may be a recent rebuild, you can never tell, I just hope it's complete. I myself love a small journal motor, but 99% of your buddies at school and 90% of the guys at a cruise in can't argue the fact it's anything but a 350. I vote for get the thing running see what you have , then make it what you want and can afford to.......

 

All true, well 99%.
Those 305 heads with accessory bolt holes will be a dead giveaway to anyone over 40 years old, but if it runs, right now that's all that matters, heads go on, heads come off.

 

The pistons was just an example for my case. I want to be able to try out stuff and learn from it but if my parents won't let me experiment with stuff i don't know how else to do that. If i can convince my parents to let me i want to go live with my grandpa this summer who has experience with mechanical things and can help actually hands on. I want to experient and figure things out on my own and learn and get better like that instead of just buying all the easy, new, bolt on parts. I don't want to have the biggest, fastest, or shiniest motor but i want it to be something cool and interesting that not everyone has. I know a 350 would be easy and no one would know the difference but i would still know that its just a basic 350.

 

Where are you finding these? I'll buy all of them for that price. around here a 327 is a good $1000-$1200. a 283 is even close to 500. a 305 is still $400.

 

Just a thought or two to consider:
1. Find a mechanic or machinist in Wilmer to work for after school and on Saturdays. Work for nothing if you have to. It's called paying for an education.
2. Read all you can on the subject, as someone has already suggested.
With no offense intended "One must crawl before trying to run. Patience grasshopper."
Pete

 

Tom
Here's the books I referred to earlier, and a few more, I couldn't find my Bill Jenkins book.
Some out of print but if you happen to run into them at a swap meet grab them.
The neat thing about these is they are not the dry reading that many of us had to suffer through in trade school, not saying they are a replacement for a good education though.

 

I have the books small blocks on a budget and another similar one both by David vizard i have been reading. i want to try new combos but is there a way to do it without spending hoards of money?

 

Many will tell you that you can, myself, never seemed to catch that rabbit.
At this stage of the game there is NOTHING that hasn't been tried, why not capitalize on the money spent by the pros.
I built my all aluminum 427 small block from that Lingenfelter book.

 

There are several folks you should talk to in Willmar that are old school hot rodders and been around the block.They are not on here that I am aware of. Send me a message and I can give you a name and with him and his contacts you can talk to a person and get more contacts.

 

Your not cranky. You've just given very useful information that makes Tom's "no" understandable now. Post 49 spell's out what I was afraid of. Tom is here for mentoring and to be accepted as an equal.

 

1968 327 in an A coupe- this has 4 bbl on it now, so no oil breather fill tube.I have a multi carb intake which is correct, but won't put it on till some run time is put on the motor.

 

Hey, good for you. You have a vision, stick with it. I, personally, have no problem dropping a reasonable amount of coin on an engine or parts if the opportunity presents itself and it's relatively convenient. If you confirm that it's a 327, and that's what you want and is complete (look up the numbers to be sure- I had a guy try to sell me a short block that was a claimed older 327 but turned out to be a garden variety 350), I've heard of worse prices. This was before the days of smartphones, so I got out the measuring tape and the stroke wasn't 3.25, was 3.48. It was a fitting end to that idea, since the old Nova it was going to go into rusted and broke the rear suspension mounts. I was dumb and in high school. And from Michigan where they salt the roads.

Myself, I am getting the old 250hp 327 in our old '54 3100 more towards what you're thinking. Just bought a set of '64 #461 camel humps that need rebuilding, but the retro thing for me is more important than the improved flow of newer Vortec heads, for example. Who knows if they're cracked, they came at a good price. It's all part of the journey.

Oh, and FWIW, I looked up the numbers on our 327, and was built in late '62. When my late father and I had the oil pan off of it in the 90s, it was clear that it had a steel crank. Cast iron doesn't shine like that. Best of luck to you!

 

This is all completely true. I appreciate the help from you guys who have experience(unlike me). I don't know what does and does not work together, and what will and won't work for performance and such. Would it be worth buying a 350 block and a large journal 327 crank? I have a 350 block but it has a 1/2' by 1/4' chunk missing out of the bottom of the #7 cylinder. I'm pretty sure it is still useable. But is it worth making it a 327?

 

It may be in just the right spot and be OK. A few things will determine that. Is in line where the skirt of the piston runs? Is it far enough from the water jack or a oil passage? are some. Post a pic and the board can tell you weather to go forward and have the block tested for crack's as that would be the next thing to do to make sure it's OK to use.