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Hot Rods Couple General build questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FAKKY, Feb 4, 2018.

  1. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    Hey guys - a few questions I have thought about but not sure as going through my build.
    57 chevy truck/panel/suburban

    #1 Bought a junk hydroboost
    I know it was from an astro van but thats all. Dont know if it was disc/disc or disk/drum. My build its going on is a disc/disc.

    #Q1 - Can I just use it - and if something doesnt work well on the brakes (too grabby) - then just swap out the proportioning valve to a known disc/disc. Part looks like this.
    http://classicbroncos.com/photos/data/500/784295_Astro_hydroboost.jpg.

    #Q1b- how do you know if the fittings for the ports are SAE or metric. Obviously parts exist for both and some metric or SAE fittings are pretty close in size .... so how to tell if you dont have the original fitting.
    ====================================================

    #2 Brake line routing
    I dont have the original lines.

    #Q2 - I assume its mostly common sense. Route along the frame rail to the rear. Use a soft flexible line to make it to the rear axle. Tee off to hardline to each rear wheel.
    At front do the same .. but no soft line required until you get to the wheel. Just keep hidden and protected as much as possible to frame/crossmmeber.

    ====================================================

    #3 Reusing Original Steering wheel.

    #Q3 - I know you can basically just cut off the original steering boc and then either use an aftermarket CPP kit or similar with a bearing support for lowercolumn/shaft. However you will have NO adjustment in wheel and its a solid shaft with no collapsability.

    Are most of you reusing the original or going with aftermarket TILT. Any way to make original any safer in case of head on.
    ====================================================

    #4 Sound Insulation
    Bought some sound insulation matt as well as a sound barrier matt. I still need to work on wiring and dash (wipers) and AC.

    #Q4 - and reason to not lay down now - or better in build process to wait until all dash and wiring done - I notice a lot of guys seem to put matt down after rest of interior is done.

    ====================================================

    #5 Windows
    Already on truck (not OEM). I have no idea. The main front window seems ok but not sure if its fully sealed properly as there are very small gaps. Side windows are off tracks and I probably need to pull door inside panels off to see if need replacement or fixing.

    #Q5 - any good threads on how to install properly and how to determine if front window is sealed/installed correctly.
     
  2. question #1. i have no problem using used parts, but i never guess what they are or if they work. call ECI.
    question #2
    you don't have to run the lines like they did originally, matter of fact you shouldn't. the fronts need to be split from the rear. the original on that truck ran one line to a junction block that split it in two, one of which went to the driver front wheel, the other towards the back. the one heading back crossed over at the first big crossmember to the passenger side and went into a junction block on the frame rail and split into two. one of which went forward to the passenger front wheel, the other to the rear. you should see the bracket with a hole in it that anchored the rubber line on the frame end.
    question #3
    if you cut the steering column as you mentioned and mount a ps box on the out side of the frame in front of the axle, you can add a collapsable shaft in between. DON'T by the c.c.p. kit.
    #4 some of the insulation will go in first, some after. sticking some of it down and then trying to go back and weld is a problem. trying to get insulation on after wires have already been run through the firewall is hard. easier to insulate the doors before you put the windows in or the gas tank. common sense just think three steps ahead at all times.
    #5 spray windows with water, if they leak pull them out and redo
     
  3. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    thanks ^^ - some good stuff/tips.

    Generally ... If you have a 'hole' that a bolt or fitting needs to go in - whats the best way to determine what you need. Mainly between close sized SAE/metric ... both might seem to fit ......

    Somewhat easy if you have the bolt or adapter .... you can measure and look at threads etc ........ not sure what you do if its a 'hole' as such ..... with no fitting (as your trying to find one)

    example Brake line banjo fitting hole
    example Port for Brake line off MC
    example some special fitting for steering or old component (fuel/wiper motor) with no #part

    etc
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,935

    squirrel
    Member

    Collapsible steering columns are more "necessary" in a front steer setup. If the steering box is behind the axle as it is originally in those trucks, it's not very likely to skewer you. There are probably many more serious design issues with an old truck, as far as safety. So I wouldn't worry about it. But if you want, you can probably adapt the steering shaft from a 1970s Chevy to get the collapsing shaft, then be clever with the outer jacket to make sure it's sort of restrained. The original steering wheel will do a number on you if you smack into it, anyways! It has always looked to me like a (beautiful) dangerous weapon.

    The threaded holes on master cylinders are usually the same thread as common fine thread bolts, so see if you can easily thread a bolt into the hole. Or get a thread gauge, and see what the thread pitch is, then measure the minor diameter, and find a table to look up the dimensions.

    The door windows...yeah, they can be fun. When you get the doors apart, post your findings, we should be able to help you figure out what's needed. If they still have the vent windows you should be able to get it back to original condition.
     

  5. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,138

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    St. Pete has an ACE Hardware, if you are talking straight threads just walk the fine thread (generally) bolt aisle.
    Tapered pipe fittings in the plumbing area can be used as a gaging reference, but the nearest auto parts store can help assuming you can take the part with you.
     
  6. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    Hey squirrel. Thanks.
    Walk me through this though on a general basis (doesnt even have to be auto).
    SAE or Metric are both possible fittings. Some are very close in size.

    So lets say I measure it at around 8mm wide... well that could also be 5/16th.

    I measure the threads and they are 14TPI. Well thats close to 1.75 => 1.81

    So ..... am I looking for a 5/16th 14 TPI adapter/bolt .......... or a 8mm 1.75 adapter/bolt

    Probabaly not critical on some parts - but others it might be.
     
  7. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,935

    squirrel
    Member

    Get a thread gauge, or just use a smaller diameter bolt with the same thread pitch as a thread you suspect the hole is. If it's right, it will fit in place properly. If it's off a little, it will not fit in place properly.

    Maybe you should play around in the hardware isle at Ace, as suggested :)
     
  9. bringing the part to the part store to fit the pieces may be the easiest. i have a huge hardware assortment in my shop, and as squirrel said, sometimes it takes careful test fitting.
    if your dealing with the brake hardware, anything original to that truck will be 3/16" or 1/4" inverted flare.
     
  10. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    Thanks.

    Yeah it was more to do when you dont have the original part/fitting
    Probably cant get a thread pitch in there either.

    So you go through your bolts --- try a few and find that

    SAE version fits, Metric versions fits.

    Is one "snugger" than the other - yes possibly - but not by much. So which one is the correct fitting. Like I mentioned doesnt matter much in say a not critical component ..... but something that holds fluid (transmisison ?) - that small difference in size/thread could cause the leak/issue etc.
     
  11. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,138

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Regarding SAE/metric, (generally) not a snugger or looser kind of deal, more of a "it starts but gets tighter after a couple revolutions".
     
  12. Blake Higley
    Joined: Aug 3, 2016
    Posts: 17

    Blake Higley

    My mustang hydroboost had metric fittings, you can tell by looking into the hole. If you know what an inverted flare fitting looks like, the metric is just opposite. Instead if having a cone sticking up in the bottom of the fitting to seal against it will have a rounded bottom. They take a different fitting on the end of the line than the inverted flare, some times called a bubble flare. Just finished my 57 pickup.
     
    squirrel likes this.

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