The Ultimate 235 Hop up Thread.......

awesome! I love old dailys!

 

sweet anymore ?

 

I'm to the point of buying an intake for my 235. The choice is between an Offy 3x1 or an Offy 2x1.

The engine is a 1955 235 bored .060, with an Isky E2 cam, and a 1961 848 head that has been ported & polished. The dist. is a Mallory Unilite and it has Clifford tube headers.

My question is about carb/intake/air cleaner clearance. The engine is going in a 1955 2nd series pickup with stock motor mounts and a stick shift trans.

Does anyone definitely know if the Offy 3x1 intake with Roch, 1 bc carbs will clear the firewall and hood? I have searched many books, catalogs and threads here on The HAMB. Some say that it will clear, some say it will not. Does anyone know about this specific application?

Thanks for all replys.

 

Well, the rear carb is directly inline with the rear port, so if you have the engine in the truck, take a carb and place it in that position and see what you have for space.

I had to cut the firewall in my '53 truck for tripower.

 

Sub'd and ttt

 

Subscribed!!

 

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Glass distributor cap

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Bump in hopes of bringing it back from the dead.

 

OK, since there are no takers on general info I do have a specific question.
I've seen several references (different websites) to a 261 build that used GMC rods and Buick pistons. With only a mention of the build, there were no supporting facts or numbers.
Has anyone here used the combo and what are the benefits of doing so?
I've just torn down a 261 that I had planned on doing a fairly stock build on but was given a set of GMC rods that could possibly be used if worth the trouble. Any experienced advise would be appreciated.

Any other tips appreciated as well.

 

Try the Inliners site. Thinking Tom Langdan was the creator of this combination, there may be something on his website. dyno dave

 

I called and spoke to Tom on this after that post since there is only mention of the possibility on any site you go to. (Even inliners)
I don't have all of the measurements and part numbers in front of me at the moment but you have to use GM rods from a 302. They are the only ones that will work with this combo. They will need to be narrowed a bit. Also, the rods are designed for floating pin but the Buick pistons are press fit so you have to shim the rods before pressing the Pistons.
I have all the particulars if anyone else is thinking of doing this. My poisons and rods are done, I just have to get everything together and balanced. Hoping to have it all back together before next spring.

 

Cool info! and it is neat to see this thread slowly come back to life. I had really forgot I started it and just went back through it. Good stuff in here. I haven't touched my car since I started it which is sad to say really however My family is well taken care of and I have been doing a bunch of work on other peoples cars so Im not dead. just my car hahaha. SOMEDAY!

 

I'll keep the thread alive - anybody have a line on good machine shops in the southeast that have the knowledge and "tricks" to handle a 235 with confidence? Wonder how many would look crazy at me if I walked in and asked about a torque plate for my 235 build?

 

Subscribed

 

RATRODCHEVY
Member
from The Motor City
If you haven't asked about Stovebolt rebuilders on the Chevy Talk or Stovebolt websites, you might want to.

 

My truck is on the bottom of page 4, last December I went over 100,000 miles on my dd/only vehicle. Same engine, a '56 235.

 

great to see this thread resurrected

 

Any info on what works to build a mild 235? Machine work intakes carbs?


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I'm building a mild 261cui.
1. Nicson 216 intake, dual carb
2. Patrick's mid range cam
3. 1953-1955 Corvette exhaust manifold
4. Zenith carbs

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What's the difference heard ppl say go carter yf or w-1?


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Here the best answers I have received
( mill head .100, sink valves and do full comp. valve job, bore no more than .060, new mech. Lifters, ground stock cam, 2-3 pot intake, split manifolds, carter carbs) am I missing anything or things that should be done differently really want this to be dialed in and have a fun street I6


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Good thread lots of info

 

I ordered a camshaft and other goodies from Patrick's 6 months ago. Still no cam. Who knows what the best rumpty cam is and who sells it? Thanks jebo

 

Call Tom Langdon at Stovebolt or go to http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/ he has a lot of good info on his site. I’m pleased with the “BullDog” cam i got from him in my 261.

 

TECH QUESTION Have a '54 Bel Air 2dr. post, am having a .040 over 261, milled head, decked block being built. It has a Corvette 3 sidedrafts intake, long tube headers, and a J.Hunt mag. Undecided on cam grind. Running a CR 5speed, S-10 4.10 ratio rear end. It's a driver... not a drag car. Finally, to the question??? Should I have the flywheel lightned, if so, HOW MUCH? thanks, dyno dave

 

What??? How do you use a torque plate to deck the block?

 

I am building a 261 for a late fifties early sixties style outlaw style modified stock car.

Machine work by B & G engine service @BnG Engine
.040" over bore
848 head ported and polished 74.7cc after the .052 surface.
rods resized and machined for A.R.P. Ford 460 bolts



And now the hop up goodies dumbied up-

N.O.S. SCHIEFER aluminum flywheel

 

sub'ed
thanks for the return of grand memories guys,
if any one from jersey and island dragway remember a 54 belair named the stove bolt. i'm one of the team and george is still playing around there .

 

Thinking of doing a build that is similar to the May 1955 Chevy 261 Build. I have most of the parts now.
McGurk # 18 Camshaft
Grant Rings
McGurk Pushrods
Jahns 3 7/8 Pistons
McGurk Triple Intake

Anyone have any thoughts. I have a 261 that is going in my 47 Chevy business coupe, but if I build another I was thinking of duplicating the 1955 Build.