***Update*** The Wheel Vintique Series 62 and 64 wheels need to be balanced of the lug holes and not the center hole.. The center hole is not perfect center on these wheels. I just had these wheels lug center balanced and it made a world of difference!!
I ordered two rallye wheels from vintiques through jegs.the welds on one wheel was half the size of the other with lots of weld splatter like it ran out of gas mid weld.very poor quality neither vintiques nor jegs wanted to know about it.although I found jegs quite honourable to deal with before.wont be in any hurry to order from vintiques again.thought they were a quality outfit.obviously not
I think who ever balanced them did not know what they were doing. there is no good reason to have weights that far apart. I have many sets of their wheels and have always balanced them on my snap on spin balancer and set on static. meaning only weights on the inside.
Looks like a lot of weight on the wheels. Is there weights on the back side of wheels also? A good balance job should have weights on back of wheel only.
Beads Weights on the outside kinda defeats the whole purpose of chrome wheels, IMO. I also agree the tech might not have handle on things the way those are clocked.
The only reason there would be weights on 3 locations on one side of the wheel is the guy doing it doesn't have a clue. He either has the center hole slugs in wrong and it's moving on him or he doesn't have the machine set correctly. Take them someplace else and get them checked. SPark
LM14 said it....the guy doing it don't have a clue.....well he may be new or not taught properly but it's wrong. Weights adjacent to each other cancel each other out. It may balance out on the machine but it's the wrong way to balance wheels.
I have learned (the hard way, of course) that one should try the wheel out on a balancer before the tire is mounted. If there is lateral run out or an off center hub there will never be a balanced wheel/tire. My experience was from the same brand of wheels and whenever a wheel by itself has visible problems at speed, then there are real problems with the wheel. With all that said, the wheel tech should have dismounted the wheel and remounted it 180 degrees and tried it again. Weights across from each other is just wrong.
The only reason to put a weight across from another weight is because the first weight was too heavy and the tech was too lazy, or stupid, to remove the first one and replace it with a lighter one.
I bought a set of painted steel Wheel Vintique wheels for my ‘36 Ford. I used tire beads in mine to avoid unsightly weights. I had the local tire shop mount them for me. I provided a ziplock baggy with the correct amount of beads for each wheel. Car drives/rides great with no balance issues. This is the first experience for me with tire beads and I’m fan. Something to consider... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Bubble balancers have been around forever. The only problem is they only do a static balance. On skinny wheels it might not make much of a difference but wider wheels are another story. Dynamic balance does the inner and outer taking into account heavy and light spots across the tread.....a better way.
Lug centric mounting is the correct way for balancing wheel assemblies, and Road Force balancing is the best modern method. I would find a different tire shop. Your wheels look OK, (and probably are) but the balance job is terrible. I recently bought 4 special order series 64 wheels, had them checked out on a road force balancer and all are within spec.
Yeah, no reason for the weights to be scattered around like that. Unless the tires are full of fixaflat or something, that tends to confuse things. Try another guy to balance them.
I paid all the money for some Diamond Back tires a few years ago and the shop did a really bad job setting them up. I took them to a friend with a digital balancer and got a receipt and description of what was off. Called the first place back up and he said I should have brought them back- an hour away. I told him you screwed them up once, why would I come all the way back? When he cried about reimbursing me I said, Well I know lots of people in the area with old cars and hot rods- I can tell them you stand behind your work, or that you're a jerk. I got a check in 2 days. Remember the customers always right, lol. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm with those that say the person balancing the wheels didn't know what they were doing. This past weekend I had the 62 series (same but primed not chrome)mount and balanced. The rears were 15x10 with radirs and the front 15x5 with Firestone bias. I asked for only weights on back none to the front. They placed stick on weight inside the middle if the rims. None of the four took an excessive amount to get balanced. I put a black 3m "duct" tape over the weights to help hide and hold them in place. My other set of wheels are the 64 series from many years back. 15x8 and 15x5 also bias tires. They were balanced with hammer on weight only on the back and they too did not take an excessive amount of weights. I think I'd let somebody else try to balance them.
That tire tech needs to find a different job. Maybe knitting. Counter balancing is a fireable offense.
Find a tire shop that has a Hunter road force balancing machine and then have them use stick on weights on the inside (back side) of the wheels. My WV wheels balanced nicely that way with minimal weights needed. https://www.hunter.com/wheel-balanc...MIkrecsZiF2QIVUFt-Ch3RgAsIEAAYASAAEgIj_vD_BwE
I have their series 62 wheels on my Ford. They took a minimal amount of weight, tires are Hankook radials. Have you taken it for a ride yet? Most spin-balancers I've seen tell you where to put the weights. One I saw you have to play 20-questions with it as the set up. But it does a good job.
That is total BULLSHIT you won't get a perfect balance with just weights on the back. Pretty but not a perfect balance. I have balanced too many tires on cars that belonged to people who were far pickier than most rodders are as far as how smooth something should ride and properly balanced the wheel will have matching weights inside and out. As far as the OP's tires and wheels go I'd say a good part of the problem is the tires that may have been older than the kid doing the balancing from the look of them. The guy who was doing the balancing should have spent more time swapping weights on the light side to get it as close as possible but the 1/4 ounce on the other side may be from fine tuning. I've done that using an on the car strobe balancer to get it perfect as my customers could tell when one was a quarter ounce out of balance. I wonder if the tire dude tried breaking the tires down and rotating them on the rims to get the balance closer but he may have passed on that with what appear to be used tires.
Some correct in the above responses and some bullshit as called out. Two facts...if you balance on only the back side or in the middle, or on a bubble balancer you have a static balance whether your machine spun the wheel or not. Google static and dynamic balancing for explanation. Secondly...some wheels are located off the center hole on the hub and some by the lug nuts. If the balancer is using a cone to center off the hole on the former, OK if it's not too big or too small and not centering the wheel. If the hole is only clearance and not centering, you need to have a correct drive plate on the balancer for your lug pattern to get a correct balance. Bubble balance tip...may work for you but nowhere near the accuracy and smoothness of a correct dynamic balance on a modern machine.
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