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4 link angle ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tobyflh, Dec 11, 2012.

  1. 40desoto
    Joined: Jun 19, 2013
    Posts: 80

    40desoto
    Member

    Unfortunately, If I keep the manufacturer recommended lenght of the lower bars, I cannot do that because when the car is lowered the bar will bind at the X. I do plan on reinforcing that area by welding a support bar between the frame and the X to avoid any twisting and bending of the X.
     
  2. 40desoto
    Joined: Jun 19, 2013
    Posts: 80

    40desoto
    Member

    Kerrynzl, Great Explanation! Thank you. Another major concern I have is how far from the wheels the lower arms are in my build. Ive read that its best that they are closer to the wheels (wider apart from each other) Mine is about two inches more inward that what Ive seen others do with their 4 link setup. Do you think these two inches would be cause for worry? I can probably move them out about 1/2 inch but I start getting concern about the bar binding on the frame or the X on the frame.
    This X frame (if thats what its called) is actually complicating things quite a bit.
     
  3. 40desoto
    Joined: Jun 19, 2013
    Posts: 80

    40desoto
    Member

    Thank you. Yes before I tack welded everything has been measured, triple measured, alligned and balanced before tack welding it.
     
  4. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,317

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, as far as I remember, on his model of vehicle, the X is open on the other side, and quite thin to begin with.

    Compression load could result in distortion of the legs of the X, depending on what level torque is applied.

    That is why I like to see those links attached to a chassis element that is parallel, and in-line with them.
     
  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,317

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As long as you are reinforcing the area, then carry on.

    Also, don't be in a hurry for @Kerrynzl 's posts. He is literally on the other side of the planet.

    Take his word over all others when it comes to suspension setup.
     
  6. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,208

    clem
    Member

    I would recommend this as a starting point to remedy what you have done.
    And what was stated above in post 34
     
  7. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 2,955

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    The X frame can be gusseted where it attaches to the frame [this would be a strong point]
    Presently ALL forward thrust loads are transferred to the frame from the Triangulated links near the centre.[ The wheels will try to Toe-in and bend the axle tube]
    If you raised the triangulated links above the axle tubes, the thrust loads would be shared equally with the outer links [these will need to be the same distance as the outer lowers are below the axle tubes]

    Pinion torque reaction will lessen the compression loads on the upper links , and increase the compression loads on the lower links.
    By spreading the loads over 4 links [over the length of the tubes] will lessen any tendency of the axle tubes to bend

    Picture this: a plank sitting on 2 blocks, If you stand in the centre the weight is equal on each block. But if you stand directly over 1 block, there is almost no weight on the other.
    Thrust loads from the Axle centreline are similar, It is dependent on how far the brackets for the links are from the axle centreline as to proportion the compression loads.
     
  8. 40desoto
    Joined: Jun 19, 2013
    Posts: 80

    40desoto
    Member

    Thank you. It all makes perfect sense. I was thinking of moving the top triangulated bar mounts to the top of the axle tubes in order be leveled. I will proceed with doing so.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  9. Lowretta
    Joined: Jun 6, 2017
    Posts: 4

    Lowretta

    Where do you apply the 30° to the upper bars? Is it the angle from the frame rail to the rear end or the angle from the rear end to the frame rail?
     

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