Projects Something from nothing. 29 roadster build

I like jello shots when I get hurt.................

 

Dr. Mike's prescription works for me thanks!

 

Been working a lot lately but was able to sneak out early today(don't tell).
Welded out the trunk skin, I have a hard time welding sheet metal- flop I am not.
More very soon. Once I get rolling, I tend to keep rolling. . .see the wave on the left of weld, maybe I was going too fast

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Grinding will worp the sheetmetal every bit a bad as welding... you should bounce around grinding just like when you welded it...
I WAS WRONG, FLOP HAS STRAIGHTENED ME OUT...
The welding and grinding shrink the steel, pulling the metal inward, in a perfect world you should weld a spot every inch, then flip it over and weld a spot next to each of the outside welds...
the same process for grinding wouldn't hurt...HIH.

 

Eh, try the hammer Ron. Whenever I overheated the metal, it just shrunk the area. Nothing a hammer and dolly couldn’t fix- sometimes five minutes with a three pound makes it look a lot better!

 

Science isn’t on your side in that one . More starts and stops equal more shrinks in one area . Weld as far as you can . Tight and uniform gaps with perfect panel alignment are going to eliminate a lot of your warp problems .


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One single weld .


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Thanx for the tip, I always jump around and let it cool but. . . Not anymore.

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flop, is that with mig and tig ? if mig I will try some Wednesday...

 

Tig I haven’t had a mig welder in the shop in 5 years or so


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can I run a long weld with a mig... ?

 

I watched Mike Casey weld two razor blades together with a tight. He then ran a long bead on a quarter panel patch. Heat control is key, perfect panel alignment is key, cleanliness is key, knowledge is key. That's a lot of keys!

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That is tig, not tight. F!

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Tried to run a continuous bead like flop says...
I'm sure running a continuous bead works for flop, but with the thin tin I use it doesn't happen... got to be a spot here, spot there, then connect them...

 

I am going to run this Offy intake and Strombergs, the air cleaners are from Jere Sheehan's 34 roadsterworking on paperwork for the car so with any luck it'll be on the road this early spring

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I pulled the back end off to straighten out a few things I threw together last year.

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My homemade subrail setup (1x1 tube) was too tall to mount the quarter properly so I cut and spliced

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looks like wire brush and paint time? You brought some Joisey home with you!

 

ronnie i sent you a text.. give me a shout if you want. I guess i didnt realize you had the quarters off the car, bring them up any night after work and we can buzz em through the planisher, won't take long.

 

Thanx Steve

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the sub rails and frame now in chassis black.
Got garage up to 43 degrees tonite- paint will dry in a couple days.

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protect your investment! Looks great. Can't wait to see the rear quarters ironed out.

 

Toreadorxlt helped me out tonight, he ran the left quarter through his handmade planishing hammer . Steve then hammer and dollied a nasty spot behind the brace.
Pictures don't do it justice. This thing was killed (some by me) and Steve whipped it into shape. Thank bud.

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So, the quarters we're mounted too high in the rear. I thought I knew what I was doing. . .
With adjustments and tweaks- both doors open now. Kind of a big deal

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The rear subrail mount needs to be replaced. I have a plan- just need to execute

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Looking better. Spring is right around the Conner


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Got some great news today; the roadster is now "on the road". Going to be tough to keep from driving it in the salt and snow

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I got a 4x4 sheet of blah blah blah gauge sheet metal and bent it up in the brake, cut off the old sub rail mount and welded these on. They will have gussets tomorrow. I measured a million times but I still welded them on a little crooked. The inner quarter supports will be bolted on these too, that'll stiffen it up a bit.

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Concentrated on left side today then got some done on pass side

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