Projects "Fly'nBrian" '34 Roadsterproject.

Brian, I had the same problem with my O-ring on the chrome T stat housing on my '55 chevy and my '36 roadster with SBC......the only fix that works is to get the reusable Thick Mr. Gasket gasket ( about $20 at O' Relieys) because it works, no gasket sealer needed, worked perfectly with the aftermarket chrome housings that require an O-ring. I highly recommend using it because it sealed up both of my cars after I fought them for days to get the O-ring leak to stop.

 

So, in my usual fashion this little job took hours. The LED indicators for Hi beam and turn signals are just below the speedo, and I realized when I went to connect the turn signal one that I'd gotten a two prong flasher, so I have no way to power up the light. I know, I could use a relay, but as long as I have to make a trip to the auto parts store, why not just get the right flasher? Oh, and note to self, LED's WON'T light if the ground and + leads are swapped...

 

Haha, that's right. They are a diode, and as a diode they only allow current flow in one direction.

 

Nice gauges, I like em &" O" don't forget to turn out the lights when you leave.

 

From one Brian to another; outstanding! You're an inspiration.

 

Looking forward to seeing your roadster in Detroit. Awesome job!

 

Thanks guys, I'm having fun with it in spite of the minor glitches. Next project, continue to try to save the original windshield frame. The bottoms of each of the upright pieces are paper thin, I've been trying to braze them up, but I end up filing through the tissue thin steel,so I keep flowing brass further and further up.

 

I ended up using the original Chevy housing, after I filed it flat, the base was WAY out. Probably from being over tightened. It looks way better than the big clunky chrome swivel one, and it doesn’t leak!

 

I have had trouble with all that Chinese Chrome stuff leaking or seeping whatever fluid they are supposed to keep in! I usually use steel or aluminum now. Nothing chrome. I was at a buddy's shop over the weekend and when we walked past his 34 Chevy Sedan we noticed a trail of Trans fluid. Yuup the stupid chrome pan is the culprit. Joe

 

Here's where I stand with the w/s frame. It's not perfect, but I think I have to stop, I'll probably paint it it, so the rest I can cheat on.

 

I REALLY wanted one of the finned, polished aluminum oil pans, they're like $70, but I've heard they are terrible leakers, so I have the stock, dented, 283 pan. ;-)

 

Don't complain about 70 bones for the pan, the ribbed aluminum flathead pan I was looking at is $1400! I am painting mine

 

I've been running the finned aluminum pan on my RPU for 17 years. No leaks. The key is toss the bolts it comes with, use good quality bolts, I used allen cap screws, and nice thick SAE washers.

 

Today was color sand and polish day. It looks pretty good, I did cut through into the primer on the front of one splash apron, but I knew the paint was thin there. I wanted to pull it outside but it's snowing/sleeting here and I didn't want to get it all spotted yet!

 

That's half again as much as paid for the 283. Even $70 is sort of a stretch for me for something that can't be seen.

 

Exactly, I kept telling myself that same mantra last night while I sanded and prepped the pan. After hours of work fixing the pan after welding the nuts to the back of the dipstick doohickey, I sprayed it with rattle can primer (rustoleum) and it reacted. Spent a couple of hours sanding it back down this morning before work...again. $1400 sounds better all the time. BTW, rustoleum primer doesn't sand for crap. It's like trying to sand a peach.

 

Not to add some heartache, but I once had a set of finned corvette valve covers with a breather on the outside/bottom and when I turned a corner, the oil that puddles as it makes it way to the drain holes would pour out the breather. I see that you are fighting the carbs for space, but I thought I should mention.

 

The holes that were originally there for the breathers are filled, so they're non functional. I'd have pointed them up, as they were originally, but they hit the throttle linkage on the front carb. No bueno.

 

Whew. I'm tired. Yesterday I color sanded, buffed and polished the roadster, and today, I pulled it outside and saw all the places that needed more work! So, I did a lot of it over. I had several hazy spots, not enough polishing, I'd cut it with 1200, the 1500, then used "Buf-flex" pad and discs on the DA which are, I believe, around 3500 gr. The finish left is sort of satin, but with the paint fully cured (single stage urethane) it's pretty hard. But, I got it all done, and am very happy with how it looks.
I also finished up a couple things under the dash, like the light didn't work in the fuel gauge, loomed some wiring, and started laying insulation/pad on the floor. I totally suck at that, good thing I have a lot of Reflectix insulation!
Saturday it's off to my pal Jake's to get the '49 Chevy 15" wheels, so I can get them painted and mount the third set of wide whites on. I guess three sets of different wheels and tires is enough for this thing...

 

The car looks and sounds outstanding Brian. She is a real GEM!

 

Thanks, I appreciate that.

 

Brian, the car looks great! I wish I wasn't on the other side of the continent so I could drop by and see it. Oh, I love the spokes! Be true to your cool!

 

You need one set of wheels and tires without whitewalls and the wires look good for that option.

 

Outstanding job

 

Awesome job sir


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After cutting the insulation (which is also the pattern for the carpet), I couldn't help pulling it out into the sun. It still looks good!

 

Good is a understatement . WOW!!

 

Yeah, it's gonna have a black top...

 

What did you use on the floor for sound deadening?
Damn, don't remove the spokes buddy. That looks tight!
Black top is perfect! Get it done!

 

That stuff is called "Reflectix", it's foil faced bubble wrap used for insulation. The nice thing about it is that being bubble wrap it doesn't absorb water, a nice factor in an open car. A buddy of mine here uses it in all of his builds. All the big box building stores have it. I also started using foil faced butyl film, used under roofing in northern climes like ours on eves, rather than Dynamat. Same stuff, comes in rolls, and a fraction of the cost. I'll put that under the Reflectix on the firewall. I should market it and call it "McKool-Mat". ;-)
The top is the convertible top I took off my '59 T'bird. It was never go back on the car as it's now chopped 2", but I figured it'd make a good "pattern", and I wanted to see the car with a black top. I cut the side panels off the center, tucked, trimmed, and stapled it on the bows. I could use it but the sail panels had some scars from being pinched stacking while on the 'bird. It took a little over an hour, time well spent!