Customs 1955 Ford Fairlane upgrades

I recently inherited a 55 Fairlane 4dr with a 292 Y block and 3 on the tree. The clutch is burned up, but I have a good 302 and C4 left over from another project. I found they make an adapter kit to attach the C4 to the Y block which will be about the same price as replacing the clutch. So that leaves me to what other upgrades can I do with modern, more accessible parts. I want this car to be a reliable driver and plan to put many miles on it.

 

I would just replace the clutch. It is a lot easier than putting in an automatic.

 

Man, 3 on the tree is so cool, these days. Used to be the 1st thing to swap out for a floor shift. I'd keep it on the column.

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Fix the clutch and put dual pipes on it and drive it


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'55 Fairlane V8 cars have dual exhaust from the factory. Customlines with V8 had a crossover pipe and single exhaust. Duals could be ordered optional on Customlines. I would just put a clutch in it and drive it. Think of that 3 on the tree as an anti-theft device since few people alive today know how to drive one. I have a '55 Fairlane 4 door, same drivetrain as yours, that my parents bouvbt new. What is the 3rd character in your car's serial number? That indicates the assembly plant. A=Atlanta plant where my father worked 1952-82. If it's an Atlanta car, my father leaded the seams on it.

 

LOL my first on the road car was just like yours. Put a clutch in it convert to 12 volt and happy motoring.

 

id fix the clutch or put the 302 and c4 in the car one or the other no mixing stuff , 302 into 55 ford is a easy swap

 

When my clutch went out of my 55 Ford I was 18 and changed it in a gravel parking lot! Only cost was the price of a new clutch. Damn, how times have changed.

 

That picture encapsulates what it's all about... It's a cool old car, but I'm using it...

These days, if it's shiny you'll get funny looks if you sit on an old car (yours) or tarred-and-feathered (strangers car). And you can't sit on the new ones... they're liable to dent.

As far as the Y-block/C4, fix the clutch. The Y-blocks with a stick are peppy cars, easy to drive, and decently economical. Want to 'improve' it? Disc brakes are nice (and they don't need to be power), and if you're worried about on-the-road parts availability, convert to 12V, ditch the generator for an alternator, and install an electric wiper kit. If you want more poop, get a '57-up 4V intake and distributor along with a small Holley carb to get more tuning options.

 

If it were my car I would fix the clutch and drive it or pull the stick and y block and install the 302 and c-4 as one unit. You still are going to have to deal with the drive shaft on a c-4 conversion with either engine.

 

Thanks Guys, I really appreciate your input. My dad bought this car many years ago off Ebay because it was an exact replica of the one he had in high school. It was a good find, the previous owner put in Vintage Air and converted it to 12 volt.

 

How exactly is the swap to a C4 the same price as swapping the clutch in your 55? A new clutch for the Y block is like ~$120, add a few bucks to have your flywheel resurfaced, plus a throwout bearing, and you're in the project for under $200 and an afternoon's worth of time, and you're done. What adapter can you get for $200? Every one I see is at least $600 or more. It also sounds like you're forgetting the entire rest of the job. Your manual transmission equipped car doesn't have a radiator with a trans cooler, so you need one of those. You need put together trans lines to get the fluid to the cooler. You need a new trans mount. You'll also likely need to fabricate/modify your trans crossmember because that's probably not going to fit anymore, either. I'll assume you have a slip yoke for the C4, but how are you going to attach it to the '55 driveshaft? Need a conversion U joint. That's the easy part assuming the C4 and 3 speed are the same length. If they're not, you need a new driveshaft, or at minimum have the old one shortened if you're lucky enough that the C4 is longer than the 3 speed. Running a quick calculation in my head, it would seem it would be about 8-10x as expensive to swap a C4 than to just replace the clutch. AND YOU STILL DON'T HAVE OD. If you wanted to swap an OD trans I could halfway justify the expense and work, but in the end you're still stuck at 1:1.

If you "don't want it to be grandpa's car", go watch the latest episode of Vegas Rat Rods, LS swap it, and get off the HAMB. "Grandpa's car" is what we do here. We build outdated cars on purpose, and we drive the balls off of them. Besides, you don't want it to be "grandpa's car" but are asking about changing it from a manual to an auto? Isn't that a bit counterintuitive?

 

Well the C4 is already rebuilt so there is no cost involved there. I was told a drive shaft from a crown vic will fit and the trans mount is available from Autozone. And I found several driveshaft shops that sell the conversion joint to mate that drive shaft to the Ford rear end for $60+. Also I have no experience in replacing a clutch, I've only replaced automatics, so add the cost of a shop to install the clutch (by the way I already checked prices) and I'm pretty close to the price of the adapter. There are plenty of posts on here were guys have done 302/C4 swaps and other custom upgrades to their rides. I prefer automatics over manual shifts. The best part of the hobby is to build the car for yourself. I'm not building the car for you!!!

 

Changing a clutch is a piece of cake. Check out YouTube. If you can remove a transmission you can replace a clutch. Alignment tools are sold at most parts store or online.

 

So what you're saying is your mind is already made up and you just wanted to run it past the board. If your rationale is that you don't like manual transmissions, that's fine. Then its a legit matter of personal preference. But if your rationale is to swap to an automatic because you're not going to be bother to learn how to perform a task you currently haven't undertaken, then I'm gonna call that some weak bullshit. OahuEli is absolutely correct; if you can swap a C4, you're more than capable of changing a clutch. It's not rocket science, especially since you have a mechanical linkage and don't need to bleed a hydraulic TO bearing.

IMHO, it'd be easier to stuff the whole 302/C4 combo in there in lieu of the Y block than it would be to convert the Y block to a C4. Probably cost about the same too.

 

I insist you build your car for ME. It's all about ME! [notice capital letters because I am all important] Ok, ok..if I was building the car for ME and I was you, liking automatic transmissions more than manual I would dodge a lot of bullets and use a 302 to bolt my C-4 up to. Reason if easier to get parts for, no pesky, leaky rope seal. Go back and look at the photo of me sitting on the front fender of my customline....look in front of the car. See all that oil on the street directly in front of my car? That's all because of a leaky rear main seal...very common with Y-blocks. [let's not even talk about shitty oiling to rockers] I put a new one in but it lasted 1/2 hour. If I was you, I wouldn't want that.
The 302 is a much better design, a lot lighter [easier to steer] and parts can be bought anywhere for a lot less than y-block stuff...starters, water pumps, fuel pumps etc. Just something to give thought to.

 

Automatic or stick is certainly personal preference.

Personally, I have gone the other direction several times due to performance. Typically gain 20~25 percent HP and 25~35 percent fuel economy when switching an automatic to a stick; but your call.

Never had a C-4, so don't know, but do you need a different carburetor for the kickdown? Some Ford automatics need a special arm on the carburetor.

And the need for a different radiator has already been mentioned.

Whichever direction you choose, always good to do your homework first, and have a plan.

Jon.

 

Last couple clutches I've bought came with the little plastic alignment tool...

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One thing to be careful about on '54-'56 Fords--the crossmember that is directly under the radiator, the one that the front legs of the lower control arms attach to, is prone to rusting out, allowing the control arm bolts to pull through and let the front suspension collapse. Make sure yours is solid and, if not, replace it. Your life could depend on it.
Also, check for wear on the bushings in the shift linkage--if they're worn, the shift linkage will feel sloppy and can hang up on you.

 

A 302 isnt really an upgrade to a Y-block. 292 -312 would be better. FE better again. C4 auto is no advantage to the gearbox that is there. Both are three speed. A 4 or 5 speed would be an upgrade. A 3 speed column shift with electric overdrive would be better again. Dont worry about disc brakes. Boosted drums will work just as good unless you are doing heavy towing or racing.
Lower the car a few inches. Remove the hubcaps or old school radiar type mags would be way cool.
Stay away from big modern dorky oversize mags the uncool people use.
To fit the 302 and c4 is a lot of work to really make it a grandma car.
Triple carb or 2x4 y-block and manual is way more cool.
You can run the same carb and dizzy in the y-block as the 302. With proper tuning and servicing the y-block will give many thousands of miles of trouble free cruizing.
Remember the fastest car isn't always the coolest.

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Oiling to the heads isn't an issue with the better oils today and regular servicing. Never had an issue with a properly installed rope seal either.

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302 and AOD or C4 in a 1952-56 Ford use a 1982-86 Crown Vic driveshaft and front yoke and a Neapco 2-0291 conversion U-joint and it will bolt right up to the 1952-56 rear end. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/albums/289-302-351w-swap-mounts.41498/

 

Best place to get the facts on 1952-59 Fords is here : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/social-forums/1952-59-ford-social-group.282/

 

I had a 57 ford with a y block that had a bad transmission 3 speed stantard . I used a 3 speed out of a 65 mustang the arms for the 3 on the tree lined up perfect. I had to cut driveshaft and grind something to make a hole bigger....do a serach it wasn,t that hard

 

Ok the Clutch is out. Better check to be certain that the clutch isnt drenched in oil. Those Y blocks commonly leaked at the rear main and flooded the clutch with oil. Also the cars had a little small diameter Clutch. The 11 inch clutch & flywheel from trucks will fit in a car.I would sell the Y block and install the 302 and C4 and be done with it. And a 302 is a upgrade from a Y block. The little 289,s pulled big galaxie wagons with power and air. the 302 has more stroke so it has plenty of torque to pull your 55. and its a more efficient design than a Y block. you will want a taller rear gear with the automatic trans. Your stick radiator will not have a built in trans cooler.

 

He will need taller rear gears with the C4 trans.

 

That Y block with dual exhaust and a 3 speed on the column is the best thing in the world man. No 302 will sound as good and wont any more power stock to stock. Get that 272 tuned up and dialed in and toss a clutch in it and you will be happy when it makes that rapraprap sound on deceleration and between shifts!

 

You can do a clutch for about 150 all new parts, pressure plate, throw out bearing and disc. If the flywheel needs to be faced add another 20-40 bucks to that. I imagine that you could get by cheaper if you looked around a bit and it can all be done in an afternoon even if you are not a good mechanic.

An automatic is not an upgrade it is just different than a standard. If that's what you want than that is what you want but it is not an upgrade.

You cannot swap in an automatic for anywhere near the cost of replacing the clutch.

 

I don't mind trying it, because I've never done it. I'd just hope I put it back together correctly. However I do prefer automatics for city driving and it'll make it easier for my kids to drive it some day

 

The AOD is a better choice over the C4 the .67 overdrive makes for much better highway cruising.