Thanks. To built hot rod is more than normal "cognitive testing"..... Hahaa. Posters are cloth banners. Made here in Seinajoki. I looked pictures from hot rod books and they made very special "sponsor" price.... 2 x midsize and one black&white big one. Today I got body ready. Next need to weld rear fenders studs and nuts. I like that original style , even never gonna bolt on any fenders.... Gauge panel is fitted and holes made. Today I ordered 8meters 1" OD tube for seat frame material.
I believe the difference between the LZ and standard Ford selection of gears has to do with the tooth count for the 1st and second gears (and associated meshing gears on the cluster) which results in first and second gear to have higher top speeds before the need to shift. 3rd gear is still 1 to 1. BTW...nice build.
Thanks. I was just interested in to get that 3rd gear info. I was hope that LZ 3rd gear is "overdrive"....but need to accept that both are 1:1. Of course I can calculate both tranny gears, but I think that it´s easier to ask here. Aulis
Photo of inside of trans with regular Ford gears...not sure why there is the area on yours without the teeth that engage the synchro rings? I'm wondering if it could be to aid quicker engagement?
Thanks. You´re right, syncroring modifications are give quicker shifts... I have had many times in my Muncie 21 and 22 trannys modified syncro rings. I need to calculate all gear teeth. I have one 1939 Double detend tranny rebuilt, so I can open both and compare. Aulis
Opened steering box and shimmed it. Im not using that BB ford "long column" steering box. Column tube will be original 1940 ford NOS stuff. Column drop opened and bored lock out. I do not know if somebody is selling reasonable price 1932 column lock, so I used 1936 Ford steering lock. Easy to change original 1932 lock, if buy one new. Woods also bored and installed on the body. I picked up today 12meter 25mm x 2mm tube. Need to make frames for seats. also bought 4 sqm 1,5mm aluminum (interior panels). Tomorrow I get steering ready. aulis
Nice build! Just curios why you didn't want to move the supports rather than bend it to get around the carbs.
Hmmmm.. Support rods; I do not want to change mountins. New expensive, good quality Walker radiator,.....Not want to change it.. I want to keep all cars, but sometimes sell..... Let´s see how this car goes and decide later. Now Project isn´t going foward. Friday afternoon I was going sick. Now sleep 2days, 39dec celcius warm....
Still alive,.... Slowly continue Project. Yesterday I changed firewall. I like more original firewalls than those new production ones. Original has all threads, holes,..... Bolted on original gaspedal etc. I took my cabriolet original floor plywoods. I copy those and started to cut new ones. Steel tranny cover need to copy too, but make also some changes. Original 1932 tranny has "angled" shifter tower and I use this car 1939 DD tranny, so shifter hole need to move. Some other dimension differences, but that is normal... Aulis
This area makes it possible to have the cluster gear fully installed (with the shaft in) - and still be able to install the front main drive gear. That little cut-away (if rotated correctly) allows the synchro teeth to go past the cluster.
Floorpanels ready and bolted on their places. First alum. cover plate is nearly ready. I copy original 1932 ford plate with some changes. A
Nice work, I almost bought that car that was in Iowa but I found an original roadster body instead, its refreshing to see you go to the effort to make the changes to a Brookville body so it looks just like an original, it will be hard to tell them apart when you are done.
Thank You Sir. I was looking for original roadster, but I was not lucky to find any that time. This Roadster Project was interesting and enough old style (axles, brakes, wishbones, steering,..... I have sold engine (EAB), lights and some another parts. I had ready more interesting "hot rod parts" waiting for this rather easy Project. Car will be ready before next summer. Aulis
What is dash insert from? Looking for one for 32 roadster as well. Like how that one has holes for speedo and tach same size. Let me know if you can thanks! Great project!! Great work Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I do not know who has manufacture that dash insert. Looks like aftermarket product. I bought that insert with gauges from here HamB. Seller has often interesting stuff here for sale (Nassaublue65). Thanks. A
Thanks I will look him up and ask what he has. Appreciate the info. Here is my project Brookville as well Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks great. Brookville quality is TOP. Better quality than other aftermarket roadster bodies. All fits better than original henry ford stuff....
Yesterday I bought 1" OD (0.01" material thickness) tube. I cut it 4pieces and bend to the right shape Today worked 8hours and seat frames are ready. I have never had so good seat in my hot rods like those old Friz Ziebard wooden seats. Feels good under my butt. Tomorrow I can continue with "racing" interior" (patch panels, door panels,..) AULIS
One more floorpanel is now made wood (Under seats). Steel panel is for sale (see ad in -parts for sale). Also drilled holes to the body and bolted on seat frames on their places. Alum. plates bolted on using flat slotted wood screws. 30´s Standard Oil companys First help -set (round alum. tube) bolted on. Old Fire Extinguisher bolted on between seats. I drilled 3 set holes to the seat frame tubes. easy to lift or set down seat, just turn handle and adjust. AULIS
Better have parachute, if she runs over 60mph.... Brake parachute Jan/1952 Pioneer Parachute Co Inc Manchester, Conn. USA
The Jalopy Journal
