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Technical Leaf Springs and getting the front a tad lower

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by garychurchill, Jan 16, 2018.

  1. garychurchill
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 47

    garychurchill
    Member

    Hi -
    I have the 7 leaf spring front end (whole front is a Pete&Jakes setup) and would like to try and get it down another inch. I've read on people removing specific leafs to get the front to drop some more and was just looking for some advice. Maybe remove the top two and put a spacer in? Would the spacer(s) go to the bottom?
    Thanks in advance -

    53775551658__53568294-766A-4E5C-B88F-C603C68B20F6.JPG
     
  2. is that a new build? how many miles? they do settle some after a while
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  3. garychurchill
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 47

    garychurchill
    Member

    Been sitting for about 6 - 7 years... Not that many miles.
     
  4. chuckIII
    Joined: May 11, 2008
    Posts: 457

    chuckIII
    Member

    You can drop it lower with a mono leaf...I’ve had one on my model a coupe for over 5 years. And putting one on my 32 build. It’s easily adjustable with spacers.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     

  5. garychurchill
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 47

    garychurchill
    Member

    I'm a little leery on the mono leaf, nothing against what you are running though! I'd rather just adjust mine to try and get where I'd be happy.
     
  6. Top 2 leafs and about the 4th 1 down out will do fine, what engine?
     
  7. I'm no expert but I would say that if you remove the longer leafs you would end up with a softer spring as well as lower, as they give some support to the leaf below it. On the other hand, if you remove the shorter leafs you would not loose the stiffness as much as the shortest ones are not much more than a spacer, so to speak. I think if you want to get as low as possable, and not bottom out, you would want a stiff spring (so it would have less travel) as well as shorter. So if this thinking is right, I would remove the shorter ones and install spacer under the spring stack.
    Does all this sound right?
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  8. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,079

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    I use to take mine to the spring shop and have them flattened to about 5/8" bow.. Even monoleafs...
     
  9. garychurchill
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 47

    garychurchill
    Member

    It's a SBC 350 to a 700r4
     
  10. garychurchill
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 47

    garychurchill
    Member

  11. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 5,245

    bchctybob
    Member

    You can probably remove the two top short leaves and put the Speedway spacers in at the bottom to regain the overall clamping thickness but it will only get you down 1/2". With some driving time it may settle some more.
    Scrap metal 48 has the best idea but it would ruin the chrome.
    It looks good, if it drives good why mess with it?
     
  12. 55styleliner
    Joined: May 11, 2015
    Posts: 563

    55styleliner
    Member

    You don't have much clearance between the spring and the frame now. Be careful!!
     
  13.  
  14. garychurchill
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 47

    garychurchill
    Member

    Well, my frame is notched for the spring. I was thinking there would be enough for 1/2" - 1"?

    Also, it's steel to steel. I know I probably sound nuts, but I really would like to know does anyone offer a rubber pad/isolator for between the frame and the top of top spring leaf?
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
  15. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,217

    clem
    Member

    I have never seen one, but wondered about this also, as I am currently doing my front spring.
    I don’t believe it would be necessary, and I don’t believe it would work.
    For a rubber mount to be effective it would have to be reasonably thick and then the centre bolt could move off centre or cause wobble.

    Just my thoughts......
     
  16. garychurchill
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 47

    garychurchill
    Member

    I actually found a front spring pad at the Early Ford Store of CA. Gonna go that route
     
    46international likes this.
  17. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,517

    alchemy
    Member

    For the spring to crossmember insulator I just use a short strip of the same webbing used between the body and frame. Will keep down the squeeks, yet still allow the centerbolt to fit into the crossmember hole.

    If you plan on lowering the axle an inch, how much travel will remain between the top of the axle and the bottom of the spring clamp? That is your critical clearance, which looks like only about 3 inches now. I'd hate to see you bottom your clamp out on the top of that brittle cast iron axle.
     
  18. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 2,078

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    Looks like your at your scrub line now. With a fenderless car , I don't see the reasoning behind lower it anymore.
     
    warbird1 likes this.
  19. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,217

    clem
    Member

    Pictures and details ?
    Thanks
     
  20. There may be a spacer on top of the springs already. I would check that before I started loosing leaves.
     

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