I want to be able to either quickly disconnect the heater hoses at the outlet on a SBF and plug them or switch to a bypass hose. I thought someone should make a small polished valve that would install into the manifold and water pump but so far I haven't found one. I would prefer not to put heater valves in the middle of the hoses, as they look crappy and I want to completely block off the hot water into the heater. I need some suggestions. Ideas???
Well dry couplers would give you quick way to just take the hoses out the engine bay but they are usually very expensive and because if their design, limit flow when you need it. I looked for a chromed valve and found nothing suitable. The Appallo 3 way valve listed below would work with some adapters and could be taken apart and polished. But by the time you install hose fittings it would be pretty bulky. This valve pictured below is I think is the traditional choice for shutting off the water at the head or water pump. It looks like it is cad plated . They are relatively small and inexpensive at $11.00.Maybe your local NAPA store would have them. I think I would make up a wrench for turning the handle on the valves as they are tough on fingers....... Sam https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI9_2y9cna2AIVBqrsCh3e0AshEAQYAyABEgJOJvD_BwE https://www.google.com/search?q=3+w...I3AE&biw=1138&bih=510#spd=8322053638856587122
Split a 3/8" drive 7/16" deep socket with a .183" cutoff saw blade, about 1/2" deep. Speed handle is the ticket!
I've used the one that the 39 Guy posted a few times on rigs with similar issues. The one thing that you don't ant to do is eliminate coolant in the heater core all together. My experience with totally eliminating the heater core is that they often end up leaking for one reason or another.
I got two valves for$9.99 free shipping on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-2-N...1-2-In-Grainger-Approved-1PZB5-/322990297321?
For a non-HAMB project, I used 2 sets of these (M & F). They're rated to 280ºF. https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=84771&catid=0&clickid=popcorn Various connections are available; see listing. I chose them because I wanted to disconnect heater hoses without losing coolant. They may seem a tad light, but I've used them for 3 years without problems.
...just had one of them started leaking; after 3 years. Contacted USP and they said that they were only good for 70º w/ ethylene glycol. (fine print, ya know) Sorry if I misled anyone. If a quick-disconnect for engine coolant is needed, USP does sell chrome-plated brass ones LQ6 that will work, however, they're more expensive. http://www.wcvirtualversion.com/publication/?i=454917&p=174#{%22page%22:174,%22issue_id%22:454917}
The OP said; "I want to be able to either quickly disconnect the heater hoses at the outlet on a SBF and plug them or switch to a bypass hose." The whole idea of the Quick-Disconnects sold by US Plastics is to be able to disconnect/reconnect with little to no loss of fluid. Anytime you take a heater hose lose without some means to cap it off, you'll have a sticky mess of coolant somewhere. They should fit the bill and they look good too.
Get one of these kits: https://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-Trailer...ash=item1a45140dc5:g:YukAAOSwkdFajUi8&vxp=mtr Plumb it like this: (Note: you can eliminate the center valve because the bypass valves are two-way. Just connect the third nipple on the two valves together): And you won't lose a drop when you switch from heat to bypass. The valves are 1/2 inch NPT so should flow quite well when you want heat although not as well as an unobstructed hose, but any valve you put in will do that.
Quick disconnect , not cheap but will only loose whatever fluid was in the actual connector at the time of disconnect.
Maybe when they opened their first store in 1978. Now they're four times that much. Minimum. I worked there between jobs a few years ago......
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