Technical what kind of leafspring to use when lowering a model a?

Hi!
I´m at the start of a Model A coupé hot rod build. And I want to lower the car to about 8" of groundclearence from the frame. Which cars is it best to take a transverse leafspring from, so I get the most possible room in the trunk? Pictures are appreciated so I can se the stance, and also the amount of kickup that is done.
Thanks!

 

And what kind of crossmember is used.

 

Way too many variables man!

Give us a little direction. You want an all new frame with a Z in the back? Why not just use the stock A spring and Z it as much as required to get your preferred lowness?

 

Yep, you could remove some of the leafs and tire/ wheel combo to consider.


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Like alchemy said, way to many variables. In my 30 I kicked the frame 8" in the back and running a Speedway medium arch leaf.

 

Ok, sorry for writing the post a bit messy. I only have a bare origianl A frame that I want to lower. I don´t have a spring yet. I´m going to Z the frame, and want to to save as much room as possible in the trunk. So what I wonder is from which model year it´s best to take a spring from( ex -36 Ford ,-40 Ford etc.) I maybe have to put the spring behind the axle, and or change the rear crossmember. But I just want to know what kind of springs are best to lower the car. Hope it makes more sense now, I´m from Sweden so I have some problems to phrase myself in english, sorry.
Thanks!

 

Looks like the Gent from over there is looking for the spring that would lower a stock A the most so he doesn't have to kick the frame any more than he needs to.
Dang, I'd like to have the same info even though I plan to run fenders.
I'm not a big fan or removing leaves and my front springs in my truck prove that times over. You get the rig lowered alright and lowered down to just about where you want it and then as you drive it it keeps going down and down and down until there is no more down to go.

 

Are ya using the stock differential?

 

Saving the trunk and lowering can be tricky. Using a ' 26/'27 T rear spring and crossmember gives you about 3" without changing anything else. Reverse the main there is another 1". Add a Z, that gives you another 2". So it's possible to get a total of 5" without too much craziness.

 

I stepped the frame the width of the frame and use a stock Model A spring with a couple of leaves removed. Had to raise the trunk floor about 2 1/2" and build a raised section to clear the cross member. Lost a lot of trunk space but still have room with the battery and gas tank in there. I'm building a 50's style hot rod with a flathead and using a closed drive train.

 

I would order a reversed eye spring from Posie and raise the rear cross member like this picture.

 

Hi
I Z my stock model a frame 4" with the stock cross member and spring. The spring is behind the ford 9". I notched the frame for the axle. I had to narrow the 9" 3" on each side to not rub on the outer lip of the stock fender. When I did that I also had to curl the eyes of the spring in 3/4 ". I have 15" wheels and the height of the tires are 29 1/2". I can't remember the height of the back end, but the tires fill the inner radius of the fender.
Hope this helps
Regards
Dave

 

I like to use a 35-40 front spring for the rear on a spring behind set up.. Maybe a 2-3" kick and you'll have plenty of trunk space.. you'll also want to remove a couple leafs.. When you "Z" the frame, you'll have to extend the rear cross member the same amount as the spring behind set up...

 

Pat59: I'm going to use a ford 9" axle.

Thanks for all the answers!

 

Putting the spring behind the axle drops it 3-4 inches without any other changes. It’s easy to lengthen the frame and then use a reverse eye Model A spring. Or build a custom rear crossmember and use the early V8 rear spring.

 

I may do that on mine but am not found of the look on a Model A. Car will be full fendered according to my wife and daughter so that wouldn't show anyhow.
As long as I get "the" stance and the tires don't rub the fenders when the car is loaded for a road trip life will be good.

 

Most people never notice the spring is behind.

 

Ah, yes. Doing the same on the '32 chassis that I'm putting together. A lot of things can be done to lower an A.

 

You said you want the most trunk space you can get. Don't Z the frame! Nothing to it like said above. Hang the spring behind then build the spring pack as needed. I found you don't need a reversed eye spring at all. My floor pan is flat from firewall to taillights. I'm still using the Model A spring.
The Wizzard

 

I’ll jist add another echo, make it spring behind and build to suit.

Though a LOT of the very low ones use the Front spring off a 40 ford.

And make no mistake a model A with the frame 8 inches off the ground is very low.

That would put the running boards and some of both fenders under the ground

 

Do yourself a favor before you brake into your Wallet and drag out the Torches. Don't just pick out a number per hearsay. Get the actual rear tires your going to run and do a little Mock up and Math. This is not a one size fit's all kind of thing.
The Wizzard

 

I was thinking this was a good idea but after seeing yours it looks extremely low.

 

Your right, it is. Look close at the Firewall to Frame relation. I'm also Channeled. All the more reason Not to Z the frame.
The Wizzard

 

Oh snap ok duh I just looked at the tire to body heiht and knew it was setting really low. I'm keeping my fenders on.

 

Here is something to think about, my A sedan (before it changed owners) with a 3.5" channel and stock spring dropped the body to where it had @2" of clearance between the top of a 28" tire and the fender.

No channel you can get close to that with reverse eyes and a little dearching on a stock spring

 

Well, believe it or not my Roadster will be full fendered when done and sit low. That's the best of both worlds.
The Wizzard

 

What rear end did you use?

What about torque tube?

Can you please explain a little more of what all went in to putting the spring behind?


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Brandon; I'm an Old silver back. I type with 2 fingers. I did this chassis some 4 or 5 (maybe longer) years ago. It's been well documented right here several times. Please use the search menu and bring it back up. If you still have questions I'll be glad to go back over what I did for the umpteenth time. Here's a Photo to start you off. Please understand I don't think like others and I don't follow directions very well. I really don't care how the Book tells ya hoe to do things. There is no one way fits all.
Also, absolutely YES the wheel base is stock Model A. Not longer or shorter. Many here don't exactly believe that but it's true.

The Wizzard