help, brakes lock up

Just went and got a quick measurement, pivot point to push rod 3.5", push rod to center of foot pad 15.5". 19" overall.

 

I come up with a 5.4 to 1 ratio. Some info says 5.1 to 7.1 is good. What do you think?

 

The proportioning valve can go bad and the flex lines at the wheels can also go bad.

 

Also; you probably know this; but you will be surprised as to how many people neglect to service their brake system ; brake fluid should always be flushed at least every 2 years ; Make sure you flush the old brake fluid completely; If there are any contaminants still in the system it could further deteriorate and damage the seals, brake hoses, and steel brake lines.
Always use fresh OE approved fluid from a sealed container

 

4.43:1 is your pedal ratio &'That's ok for power brakes.
7:1 would be for Manual not power brakes. 5:1 and may develop too much pressure in boosted brakes and a hard pedal effort on manual brakes.
4.43:1 with a heavy foot might be too much for boosted brakes. You should be able to tell if there is a normal and gradual progression from maximum brake to lock up or if the brakes are sorta working or locked with no middle.


Next would be a visual inspection of brakes looking for mechanical issues.
After that would be calculations of bore size of wheel cylinder to master for over mechanical advantages.

 

Thanks for the interest guys, going to do some more research tomorrow.

 

Here's a follow up on my cure for this problem. Go back to my pictures on page one. See that block on the frame rail? After doing some research on the web, I discovered that back in the day that block was referred to as a disc brake hold off valve. What it was doing on the drum/drum donor car, I'll never know. Anyway, after removing that, brakes are all better now. I also installed a new distribution block under the master cylinder just because. Thanks for the many replies, and I hope this might help someone else.