Can Duplicolor Engine Enamel be painted over Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X paint? It seems that the solvent in Painters Touch 2X is called "Acrylic Modified Alkyd" (whatever that is) so the question is what is the solvent in Duplicolor Engine Enamel and will it react with the Acrylic Modified Alkyd? HERE IS THE PROBLEM: I used Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X primer first and then the gloss white version of the 2X paint over a composite/Fiberglass part. It worked fine and I was satisfied with the finish. Twenty hours later I then used the same brand of spray paint to paint a stripe over the just painted surface and it looked really nice for 20 seconds and then it crinkled and got all bubbled up. It was cool last night in the garage (40F) and it was cool this morning so I guess I screwed up on the "Recoat Window" meaning that the second coat of paint either needs to be sprayed on within 1 hour...OR...the the second coat needs to be sprayed on AFTER the first coat has FULLY CURED otherwise the solvent in next coat of paint will seep into the first coat and re-liquify the first coat. I JUST LEARNED THIS LITTLE DIDDY...THE HARD WAY!!! So now the question is...How can I remove the paint and start over? I decided that I want to use Duplicolor Engine Enamel with Ceramic because the part might get hotter than the 200F that Painters Touch advertises as the max (but not much hotter). The part is composite and I did some body work on some dings and I really do not want to have to go down to the bare fiberglass. How long should I wait for the paint to FULLY DRY so I can sand it using an vibration sander (I tried today and the paint goos up and gets stuck on the sandpaper)? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!
Or more depending on temperature , and I would wait at least 2 days to sand. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I really like the Painter's Touch spray-bomb primer (it actually seals too, preventing rust under the paint) but you do have to pay attention to the re-coat window. How long will it take to dry? My experience is you need temps in the 70s for about a week before attempting a recoat if you miss the window, and at least 4-5 days before sanding. Spraying at temps below 60 will cause issues too... learned that one the hard way. How thick the paint was applied makes a difference I've used solvents to remove uncured primer, you might give that a try. IIRC, I used Xylene to remove the primer, should work on top coats too.
Thanks everyone for your well wishes, advice, and painting screwup dances. Here is what I did: I used Acetone to clean off the newly applied paint. This is a REALLY MESSY PITA. For those who need to do this here is what I found worked. I placed a splash of acetone in a small tray and then dipped a small 1 inch by 1 inch cut down green scotch guard scuffing pad in the acetone and with the pad really wet I scrubbed the painted surface. Since the paint is fighting for its life and gets the pad gummed up very quickly, I would only do about 3 to 5 very wet scrubs and then rinsed out the pad in the tray of acetone and then repeated the process over...and over...and over again working a small area working from top to bottom on the panel. I found that more than about 7 scrubs the pad would be too gummy and sticky with paint and not work. Very quickly the acetone in the tray would get too sticky and I would clean out the tray with a paper towel and splash in some new acetone. Then when the paint was mostly off the surface looked like a disaster with the paint chips and residue slathered all around on the surface. I then used a 150 grit sanding sponge and wet sanded the panel to sand off the paint residue and sanded the panel down to bare. This was a lot of work. I then used engine enamel primer and now I am waiting for about 4 days to wet sand and fill with skim coat.
2X Paint is Garbage! We banned it from our Shop. Even waiting 7-days between Coats, yielded the same Crackling. Everything is done with Rust Reformer for Priming, and anything but 2X for Topcoat. Another trick we've tried is Heating the Rattle Can in hot water before using.
Any way to empty a can of rustoleum? The valves always clog 'cause they won't clear by inverting & spraying . Never finished a can yet!
rustoleum is for patio furniture. not car stuff. thought I would paint a bicycle with it. it never dried, I ended up scraping it all off with a razor blade.
Yes. So this is what I did: One summer morning,i was working on a few things all at once. I was building a tiny 4×6 flatbed utility trailer out of a 1935 chevy axle. All it needed was the 2x8 boards cut. At the same time I was trying to dissmount about 10 tires out of their wheels with my little HF manual tire changer that I bolted to the floor. I was working on one floor with tires scattered around me. When this particular 17.5 big ass wheel/tire got to hard to dissmount,I was so angry and frustrated that i pulled the grinder and cutoff wheel and started to cut the tire off. What a fucking,hot dirty mess that was! Unsuccessful,i threw everything on the ground and quit. Hot and sweaty,black rubber dust in my face and hair,tripping over tires... I was Red Green on meth. I decided to at least prime the damed trailer before taking a shower and drink more beer. I knew I had 2 cans of rustoleum Rusty red primer on a shelf that I bought like 6 months before that I never used. I went hunting for them and found them where I left them,how lucky. I pulled my Makita Reciprocating saw with the "special" rattle can shaker blade(idea stolen from the HAMB) I proceeded to angrily shake the shit out of them for around 10mins each. Finally locked and loaded with 1 spray bomb in each hand,I began to prime the rails. .....the pos cans were clogged!! .....both of them. I tried changing tips,I cleaned the tips with laquer thinner,i tried to shake them but no cigar. One the cans fell and the tip broke inside the can..oh that was it!!! I took a screw and tried to fish that little pos broken plastic tubbing with no avail. So Out comes the battery powered drill with an 1/8" drill bit to carefully dig the remaining plastic tubbing that way I could just insert a new tip and try to prime the stupid frame. I was carefully drilling that plastic out when I went in a microshittymeter too deep and the can with all its might,shot a cold,cloggy stream of paint directly to my face. I put my finger on the hole as hard as I could but I was blind so I tripped on a tire,caught my self then backed out and stepped on a wheel hole,my boot got stuck,fell on my ass while holding a paint grenade with one hand trying not call for help. Finally the paint dried in one eye that I could see. It got in my eyes. It got in my fucking teeth,my hair,my neck!!!ohhh it was a mess!! But now I had in my hand a new years bottle of champagne just gooshing out a fountain of shit brown primer.. And thats how I primed my trailer,with an uncontroled stream of shitbown primer,as if my trailer had won a formula1 and i was showering it with champagne. Hell,Im not about to waste a good can of primer when the closest HD is 120 miles away.... ....but wait,theres more!!! Remember I had TWO of these shit cans? Well the same thing happend with the second one...except,i knew what it was to endure.
LOL... and that, boys and girls is why I say to pay out the ying yang for real automotive paint instead of spray bombs of rust products.
I've painted so many things with Rustoleum, I couldn't begin to count them all. I guess I've had some problems a few times, mostly because of poor surface prep. But issues with it not drying? Never. The self etching primer and the high build primer both work great, followed up with Automotive Enamel gloss black I've achieved excellent results. I've also used a lot of the Matte black. And finishing a can? I just sprayed a couple of new tail gate hinges the other day, the last can of Matte black I have on hand is down the very last drops, but there was more than enough to paint the hinges, and afterwards I put the cap on it and put it back in the cabinet for the next time. Maybe some people just like to complain about shit.
I learned long ago to fill a pan with hot tap water (NOT near boiling, just hot) and set the spray can in it for about 15-minutes, shake the hell out of it and then spray with it. Rustoleum has a high solids content and it'll clog the nozzle every time unless the ambient temperature is in the 80° range or above. After use, turn the can upside down and spray for 5 or 10 seconds, then remove & soak the nozzle in lacquer thinner and put it back on the can.
I deliberately primed a 4 wheeler with 2 X and then painted it with Engine paint so it would wrinkle. It was my grandson's 4 wheeler and he wanted a Spider-Man theme. Worked great.
I've painted a bunch of stuff around here with the Rustleum 2X paint. It works much better when its warm out, but if the can is warm, it will work down to around 60 OK. Now, If I could only learn paint stuff and not have runs, things would be good. Gene
I agree. Maybe it's just me but the only Rustoleum spray product I've had any luck with is their Professional High Performance Enamel. I usually just buy Dupli-Color products at the auto parts stores for small jobs. Always a very good finish and no problems with cans.
Wow, that was hilarious and tragic at the same time! That should become a screenplay and filmed. In my mind I was watching you as the drama unfolded. Makes my goofy days seem pro-like in comparison. Do you have anymore fun filled experiences? LOL
I could write a book!! Did i tell the time a full can of brake cleaner exploded in my face? Wana guess how?
There's a difference between Rustoleum and Rustoleum Painters Touch. Both made by the same company, but quite different formulations. Rustoleum is an industrial coating and takes forever to dry. The Painter Touch is less heavy-duty, but dries much faster... as long as you follow their directions.
Crazy Steve, you haven't read the directions on the Painters Touch lately have you? Drying time is nearly the same now. Fact is, nearly all spray bombs have about the same drying times these days. The fast drying times are a thing of the past. The government is out to save us. Gene
Turning the new POS "Any Angle Spray" cans upside down doesn't work any more.... All you do is waste paint and don't clear sprayer..... LW
Yup! A hard lesson i learned long ago, but stupidly do it again from time to time to piss myself off. 1,2,3 even 4 coats. ONLY while tacky (like 10-15 minutes apart). If you try another coat even 1 hour later BUBBLING & BLISTERING!. Wait another 48 before you try. REALLY! Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hey Flattie, glad I dredged up old, tender memories! And I don't doubt that story for a moment Got a picture of that trailer? OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN
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