Technical Small garages and how you heat them?

28X32, insulated heavily including a garage door with insulated panels and double pane windows, radiant tubing in the floor, and heat the liquid with a 2nd hot water heater installed in the basement of the house. No open flame in the shop. I built the shop, so was able to heat it the way I wanted. I think it costs less than $25 a month to heat. Bonus: I found a nice 220 volt window air conditioner so cut a hole in one of the walls and chill the place down when the Kansas heat gets crazy.

 

I do have an oil stove a few years older than the one that Drewsi showed that was planned for my shop. my uncle gave it to me years ago intended to go in the shop. I already have a 250 gallon oil barrel. Years ago I hauled home a big oil furnace that a guy gave me that was in pretty decent shape but it was so big that I didn't have any place inside the shed to store it.
I may just hunt down an old Blaze king wood stove and use it as that will heat the shop even if it is poorly insulated and I can scavenge pallets to burn in it if I have to.

 

Guess I'm lucky. Live in a split level built in 1960 when natural gas was cheap. Guess it was cheaper than running ductwork. Our house has 2 100k but forced air gas furnaces. One for the lower floors and one for. The bedrooms above the garage. One furnace in the basement one in the garage. The garage is partially below grade and even with a less than well insulated 16 ft for it hardly ever gets below 50 degrees. Its been in single digits last three nights and in the low teens during the days. Wife needed some extra room in the fridge for holiday goodies, so our drinkables went in the garage near the door.
Stayed right at drinking temp. When I need it warmer, l open a couple registers in the ducts, and crank the bedroom thermostats to 72. Gets up to 65 or so pretty quickly.

 

Porcelain, standard base, light bulb fixtures with 300 watt incandescent bulbs.. Light and heat from one source..

 

Open the door, I live in Florida........

 

Fuck a whole bunch of you California and Florida guys!! The thermometer outside my shop door said 0 degrees this morning. I have the woodstove blazing. 24 dead Ash trees on the property made 10 cords of fuel. Enough for the house and shop for two years, hopefully. Had to add the chiropractor bill to the heating bill though.

 

Ran my LP stove this AM

 

Ground temp is even year around down 10ft, if you insulate the outside edge of the slab down about 2ft below the frost line it will create a heat cone under the slab, do some digging online lots of info.., alot of the newer zero energy stuff insulate the outer edge and the outer 4 ft of the slab. keeps heat from going out the side of the slab...

 

depends on where Truckee gets cold, I'm south of Reno Nv and it was 12f the other morning,

I use a 80% efficent 60k btu natural gas house heater in my garage with drywall and insulation, walls are concrete block but I can get it into the 70's with it in the 20's outside, but insulated doors and roof, had to move all the paint and flamables out of the garage though (yes i'm parinoid)...

 

One car gravel floor shed basically, i heat it by wearing a thick jacket and working hard


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When I lived in Wisconsin, I had an old one and a half car garage built in the 50's. It was small, but I made it work. I used a propane torpedo heater and could get it up to 80 in about 30 minutes, even when it was -10 outside.

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I use this nuclear reactor to heat my shop

 

Good plan, but if you put the insulation on the outside, you have all that concrete for a heat sink. Cover that with metal siding attached with drive in concrete anchors (sort of like a nail with an offset toward the end) and you wont have to fir anything. The anchors are a bit pricey, but I built a little attachment for my press to put that offset in a soft 1/4 inch bolt for a couple cents each.

 

Here's my wood stove. Bigger than it looks, stove is about 150 gallons. Was building a new stack robber in this picture. Had a waste oil drip with fan forced air at that time, didn't work too well. Shop is 30 x 50, concrete blocks, mostly below ground with 2 inches of sprayed on urethane foam on the outside. Been a good place to work since 1981.

 

My garage is 24x30 I used a kerosene tube type heater for years about 8 years ago I installed a ceiling in the garage bought a hanging gas garage heater from Menards and love it. No more kerosene smell and the noise of that heater running

 

I am building a small work shop in my bigger garage. The final room will be about 10x20. I started a thread on the garage journal forum and for lots of great advice. I ended up deciding on a 5000w electric heater from northern tools online. It was $100. I had to wire in a 30A 220v circuit for it. Easy to do because I was wiring up outlets and things too. I am going to insulate the ceiling and walls. The heater might be a bit of overkill as it was recommended for a 2 car garage. It has a 3000w setting that will work well to maintain heat once it is up to temperature. Dry wall Ceiling, insulation, OSB paneling and and a sliding barn door left to finish. I think it should be toasty when finished.


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No matter what you choose to heat your garage with, REMEMBER THIS.......Keep all sources of ignition (wood stoves, furnaces, etc) 18" off the floor! That is actually part of the building code because flammable vapors linger at the lowest part of your shop floor.
I use a Reznor hanging unit heater myself. I have Natural gas piped to it and it's very cheap to run. It also frees up floor space for me to use for more important things.

 

I have the same heater 45k btu also NG in my 28x28 shop. I keep it set at 50* when I'm not in there, when I go out to wrench on stuff within 20 mins it gets up to 60* or so. Of course the walls and ceiling are insulated.

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7.5 kw heater on a thermostat. Works great, I'm not a fan of open flame in the garage. Plus I mounted mine low that way everything down low is warm. Never understood the heaters mounted up high, nobody likes cold feet.

 

-38c the other day here


Fake it till you make it!

 

Holy crap, that's cold. Real degrees and rest of the world degrees line up at -40, haha

 

Turns out Hambs world record longest thread isn't about hot rods at all lol

 

Here's his masonry wood stove.


He just builds one hot fire and lets the heat radiate off of it.
You don't want to leave your hand on the clean out caps when its up to temp,

 

Ok, every kind of heating apparatus has been discussed. Common to uncommon and everywhere in between.
Now, lets talk cost. How much per month is your heating costing you? What was the total cost,? ex; unit, install, fuel/power, what maintenance has to be done/how often etc?

 

My shop is all block, 26 x 30 x 10 with insulated garage doors, no ceiling yet but it is insulated with ten inches of fiberglass and I heat it with a 7500 watt Pro Fusion electric heater from Northern tool. I leave the heat on all winter and keep it at fifty degrees and it warms it up to 7o pretty quick. Yesterday morning it was seven degrees here and my shop was seventy. But I try to never let it go cold.

 

Hello Binger, I too chose the Northern tool heater, already had 220 v sevice in place in both my attached 24 x 24 garage & my 40 x 40 barn, currently using it only in the attached structure & love it. with (2 nine foot o.h. doors, full insulation & drywall & a 12 foot vaulted ceiling mind you, it keeps things toasty warm. I normally set it at 50 degrees or so & do not run it only prior to or when working as needed. I wired mine with a 10 ft. heavy comm. cord plugged into my compressor outlet. my thoughts were to enable the heater to be moved around as needed such as on the floor if need be. I've got to tell you I have never had to move it as it works super as is, mine is positioned on top of my double stack rollaway tool box at about eye level with plenty of air flow in & around with respect to safety concerns . As for the 40 x 40 barn I too could move it there should the need arise altho it is only car storage & is non insulated .....but at 90 or $100 very affordable to buy an additional unit.

 

what the heck is a "wood permit"?

 

I have to many things that also have fumes for anything with an open flame!
Jimbo

 

Most combustible fumes are heavy. Building codes everywhere require the combustion air intake of any heater to be 18 inches above the floor. That's plenty unless you have an inch of gas on your floor. If your car has a fuel leak, fix it or park outside. Store your lawn mower gas outdoors and away from your buildings. Not a big deal. BTW, a fan forced electric heater mounted near the floor is probably just as dangerous as an open flame if it doesn't have an explosion proof fan motor. ... just sayin'

46international, I imagine that in this case, a 10 dollar a cord wood permit would allow you to cut firewood on public land.

 

Another way for the government to make a few bucks..


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