I'm going to build a 289 Ford for an OT project. Still in the parts gathering phase right now but have a couple of questions. How long will assembly lube remain viable? In other words, if I build the engine now but it's up to a year or so before it's installed in the car and ready to fire, will the assembly lube still do it's job? Also what's the best gasket sealer for things like oil pan, intake, valve covers, etc.? Silicone, RTV, or old school Permatex? Thanks in advance.
I like permatex, the only bit Id be worried about is the cam/lifter but 12 months should be ok , is it short block or fully assembled so you can seal it up?
I use extreme pressure lube on all metal to metal contact areas except cylinder walls and Loctite 515 gasket maker "sparingly" as in spread to a thin layer with my finger. These can sit for a very long time before use. https://www.amazon.com/Dart-LUBE-Extreme-Pressure-Lubricant/dp/B019XDSU8S https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38655-Gasket-Sealant-50-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTTA
I've had mixed results. Now I just leave everything bagged and boxed up till it's time. If you must build it leave the pushrods out so the Valves stay closed till it's in place. Clean sharp valve faces don't like condensation and Vermin love little tiny spaces. Clean and inspect all your machine work, bag it all up and wait. You won't regret that move. The Wizzard
Use this for assembly lube, and rotate as minimally as possible until you start it up. That said, also note that you don't want to add anything to your break-in oil. All that zinc additive stuff actually tends to make the oil worse at doing its job than it was originally. Use a high-mileage oil from Valvoline or Mobil and you'll be fine. I personally like Mobil 1. As for gasket sealing, most of us (myself included) use some sort of RTV sealant, but it's not required. It's done because we all want to "guarantee" a seal, and the silicone stuff tends to fill any voids that the gasket won't form into. Really all you need are the proper gaskets and some gasket sealer. I like Indian Head on the intake gaskets, water pump gaskets, and any paper gaskets. https://www.permatex.com/products/g...permatex-indian-head-gasket-shellac-compound/ Cork gaskets can go on dry, but I like to add some copper spray to them https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/941/31927/Permatex-Copper-Spray-A-Gasket-Hi-Temp-Sealant You can also use high-tack for paper gaskets (I don't recommend for intake, but it's good for anywhere else) https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-high-tack-gasket-sealant/ Last, but very importantly, use high pressure moly lube on the cam. http://www.nevlock-performance.co.uk/clevite-lube-2.html You can get all this shit at NAPA, the links just show you what you're looking for. Mike
That's where I'm at right now, leaving everything boxed up and waiting until the car is ready for it before I assemble anything. I'm just anxious and want to get it built even though I know it won't be going in the car anytime soon.
So, you don't recommend any of the commercial "break in" oils like those from Joe Gibbs Driven or others?
I'd follow Pist-n-Broke's advice. At fire up time I like the moly and zinc. Keep in mind that moly will plug the filter if you are using it a full flow set up. While like Mobil 1 it is not something I would use in an engine until it is well broken in. My $.02. Pete
the 283 in my `36 ford sat for 7 years fully assembled before i fired it for the first time. Lubriplate #105 assembly grease on the rods , mains and seals. moly cam grease on the cam and lifters. motor oil on the rings/pistons/cylinder wall. rocker arms were left loose so all valves were closed. all openings and ports were sealed off. then the motor was covered with a plastic bag right before the first fire up the valves were set, and cylinder walls oiled. 8500 miles later all is fine the 283 in my `30 coupe sat for 2 years with the treatment
There are to many opinions about break-in oils, I use them, some don't, it's up to you to decide if the extra cost is worth it. This is pretty recent, test-procedures-prove-race-oils-differences. I use Brad Penn or Comp Cams oils. If you decide to build the engine now, use a grease on the bearings, not the oil assembly lube, and for the camshaft, use the moly grease, not the red or green cam lubes. Don't adjust the valve train or rotate the engine, then seal the assembly as good as you can in plastic bags. I am building a Pontiac right now that won't see the road for a couple of years. I will break it in on a test stand, then back off the rockers, seal it up tight, and store it in a climate controlled garage. It will store better being broke-in, when it comes time to install it, a quick prime of the oil pump with fresh oil and it will be good to go with no worries about weather or not the grease slid off the lobes or bearings. When getting ready to store, I drain all water while the engine is still hot, the heat of the block will dry up any remaining water so I have no fear of freezing in case of power lose. Don't use tape to seal openings, it won't last and it will leave a nasty mess to clean off later. Don't use plastic plugs either unless the can see them at the openings or you tie flags or strings to them, you sure don't want one migrating into the engine. Two or three industrial plastic bags is all thats needed. Pallet wrap, clear plastic wrap would also work good, you can pull it tight and really get a good seal on it, the trick would be getting on the floor or in storage with out tearing the plastic seal.
No, I don't, except for rare cases. Hit the link below to see why. This individual has run rigorous tests on hundreds of motor oils to see how they perform, and unlike corporations, he's not selling anything. See for yourself and see how your favorite oils stack up. https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Lube it as normal, bag it up. When you install it.... Prime it and fire it up. I have installed many brand new motors that I know sat on the shelf at Ford for a few years. They didn't worry about any special lubes... Just motor oil when assembled. Primed the ones I could... Those with the oil pump on the end of the crankshaft... Fire them up and watch the gauge. Main thing is make sure it is sealed up good and bagged to keep dirt, dust and moisture out. A couple of desiccant bags put inside your plastic bag wouldn't hurt either. Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm one of those that cover parts in either wd40 or I use a mix of Napa engine honey and lubriplate. Heavy trash bags and then I put each head, crank, etc in its own trash bag. Squeeze it tight to the part and twist tie close. I've had parts stored for 2 yrs that way. Pulled them out and just assembled complete with the honey and lubriplate mix except for the heads. I use the mix as an assembly lube. I have a couple motors with over 125,000 miles and never had a valve cover off.
you dont want any "friction modified" type oils for ring bed in, therefore a break in oil or something without the friction modifier is best (that data from 540Rat doesn't cover ring break in )
I use Permatex Ultra Slick assembly lube, it stays on pretty well, really thick stuff. My engine builder recommends starting a fresh build with Valvoline VR1 10w-30. You want the oil to flow instantly and you'll be dumping it after the break-in. I used a break-in additive per the instructions that came with my cam (Lunati).
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