Projects Rescued '30 five window, I have questions....

Same for Alabama and Georgia to Florida. So many cars I could've if they had titles.

 

Did you find A coupes on Deuce rails? I like coupes on the Deuce, roadsters and others on the A rails, but you're not building it for me. Still, another reason to keep the frame is this parts list (sometimes used on Deuce rails):
front and rear spring mounts/cross members
rear spring
rear axle "bones"
front spring (sometimes, not always)
misc mounts and brackets
The axles, engine/trans, center cross member, pedals, radiator (if it's good) might help a Model A guy down the road, but I concur, sell NOTHING until you've passed certain hurdles.

A coupes on Deuce rails:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Mod...iaPYAhVEeSYKHTDQDvoQ_AUICigB&biw=1366&bih=637

 

Or bring the Ohio ride back to NY. I had to make a trip back to Ohio just to have the damn title notarized


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And use flat clear, if at all, the satin looks like a sore thumb, like you faked the "patina".

 

Yeah, I shot the cab this morning w a light coat of matt clear.... looks a bit more natural. I guess I will trade away the stuff I'm not going to use. I need a hood or new hinge, I guess I won't use the fenders or rumble seat. We really wanted the rumble seat but the re engineering is way easier w no rumble seat. Bulk head and fuel tank back there, done...

 

The way people tailgate today, would you put someone you care about in the rumble knowing the rod's frame stops over the rearend...
State of Maine didn't issue titles till 1975...

 

I’m building a ‘30 too. I boxed the frame and built a crossmember and the frame is super stiff now. I’m going to run a little 265ci Chevy and 700r4 or a 4 speed if I can find one around here. Keep the A frame. I like em better. And stick with the 30 grill shell an be different.


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My wife has a 292 w 700R4 for her 52 chevy. We are waiting for the tranny to be built. She has her mustang II all picked out. She intends to drive the car... We drive it daily now 216, 3 tree...

 

I have to agree with those who say don't sell the frame and or title. The chopped and channeled coupe you showed runs a stock (somewhat modified) A frame and the body is channeled the width of the frame which in my book is a proper channel as I am not a fan of the cars that have several inches of body sticking down below the frame rail.
As the guys said, get it titled in your name now before doing any thing to it. If it has to be inspected for some reason just tell the inspector that you are going to "restore" it and leave it at that. Then if the vin number on the title is the original engine number you stick the old engine in a corner or in a shed and keep it until the car is finished and you go down and have it inspected for a "motor change" and get the title updated. That's called "yes sir/mam, I took the old 4 cylinder out and put this V8 in it, that's the old 4 cylinder with the number on the title right there". End of hassles.
You can cut out your own boxing plates or find them ready made. I've had some on my Ebay watch list for a long time along with an X member and boxing plates. The powers that be don't like us posting Ebay links so here is a number for the x member/boxing plate kit that I have been watching. 151178943207 It's by Dagle's rod shop and a number of guys have used the kit.

 

Thank you 48... Yes, I have made my mind up to get it registered this week. I intend to do more research and build a car very similar to the photo I posted. I intend on running a 4.8 or 5.3 w 700R4 with F.I. and management. I have to finish the MGA first, but I must admit I am looking forward to this model A....

Many, many thanks to you guys for lending your advice on not only this project but also on my wifes 52 chevy. You guys tuned me up on a few things then also.

So, I am grateful for your help and will dutifully do as you guys have suggested and report back.

Merry Christmas you guys !!...

 

In that case you can keep the stock frame.
It looks to use a A-frame with the body channeled over.

 

Get it in your name.
Than you can start planing what you gonna do.
40's juice brakes with a dropped axle and reversed eye on the leaf on a modified cross member gets the front down 5+ inches.
A rear leaf behind the last crossmember gets you lower too.
If you stuff a flathead v8 in without modifications on the firewall pushes the body2+ inches back same as a 302 so you can't run stock fenders or a stock hood.

 

Like has already been said here....don't do or sell anything until you have the title in your name! Priority one.
I just went through the title dance and it wasn't fun. BTW, LS motors [as well as they're engineered] don't fit this message board. We're all about tradition here.

 

(This photo was attached to the above post...)


Dear God, whatever you do don't slide the body back on the frame to gain engine clearance! I'm not sure if Mr. Marshmallow Delivery intended this to be a suggestion or a "don't-do-this" but please avoid this situation ^^^ at all cost. No matter what else you do, your car will NEVER look right if you change the rear wheel / opening orientation.

 

You might want to read about what the HAMB is dedicated to and what is allowed to be posted here and what isn't. Posting LS engine swaps will get you banned.

The site is for cars built to be historically accurate (or just historical cars) from the mid 60's back.

Do whatever you like, it's your car, but just be warned if you want to stick around here you'll have to be very careful not to post pictures of/talk about the modern stuff.

You've been warned.

As per the question, looking at the example you have posted, that car is channeled so the body is covering the frame from the firewall back. If that's your intention, there's nothing wrong with a boxed original Model A frame, when built well, they will take plenty of power.

For a non-channeled car, I still like the A frame but '32 frames are also very pretty and popular choice, plus you can sink your seat pan down between the frame rails and gain yourself some headroom which is nice in a chopped coupe if you're tall. That's something to be considered as well, looks mean nothing if you can't fit in the car comfortably. Depends on your size I guess.

 

Of course I felt that flavor around here, thank you for the heads up on that

So I gather a 32 frame is an option for the 30 model A body if I pinch it up front to fit ?

We like the look and stance of the car in the photo, we will channel the body first, then chop as possible to fit after the channel. If we can drop the floor pans a bit the we can get chop back from the channel...

It's hard spooling up on all this stuff. I'm still less than 3 weeks into it...

Thanks for all your help you guys! I'm going to switch the title in the morning, they were closed today.

 

I think it's been said to use the frame you have. It's been done a countless number of times. If someone is looking to restore one, frames aren't that hard to come by.

Cut it, box it, whatever, use it. It's all good.

 

Thanks enfield... The thing I am wrestling with is the daily use of the chassis. I agree with you, we have established these frames can be used. However, for me, a rookie, I don't want to get neck deep into a frame mod and figure out every single thing needs to be replaced.
I have found a few chassis with in my price rang so it's looking like a new chassis will be used.
So now, next lesson/issue... the 32 frame.
Since I'm starting off with a new chassis I can make those changes now. I will looking at more cars and pay closer attention to the 30/32 chassis issue. We are interested in gaining back some of the height/headroom from the chop if possible.
I appreciate every single comment on this thread. I have muscle cars, I can change any part on any muscle car. But I am no fabricator. These cars, the way you guys do them and care for them, it really takes a long time to feel the cars and fab stuff up that is correct looking.
Anyway, I do appreciate your patience and once I get this stuff figured out I will start posting photo's...

 

I personally like the 32 frame option as I think it saves a lot of work. I got a ad from Johnny Law motors a few days ago for 32 frame rails which I believe had a Model A front cross member as well as a rear member for $399.00 Christmas special. There's a lot of work to remove the sub rails on a model A and reinstalling them after the Channel not to mention cleaning up the stock frame and adding boxing to make it as strong as a stock 32 frame. Of coarse even a 32 frame would need extra support when you start cranking up the horsepower and torque. Some Model A's from the Internet with 32 frames. The second appears to have the frame lengthened in front for engine clearance.

 

If you're going to channel the body, you almost need to use the A frame, the '32 frame is meant to sit on the outside perimeter edge of the body and to channel the body over that is adding a shitload of unnecessary work to your build. Plus, the '32 frame is taller so it requires a deeper channel and it's also more expensive.

A '32 can be channeled over a '32 frame but it's a lot harder to do with an A body, and it's kind of a waste/unnecessary since you won't see it and that's a fairly big part of why people use '32 frames.

 

Please do a search about Johnny Law Motors before you buy anything from them, and then never buy anything from them. Especially something as important as frame rails. I'd have an extremely hard time believing they are anything even approaching quality.

 

OK, I get it now, I see what you guys are saying. The 32 frame under the 30 body kinda' cleans it up, makes a nicer fit. I see that now... OK, another thing to consider, channel or no channel. The A body can sit on the 32 rails, cop it and then drop the pan... Got it...
Thanks you guys...

 

The notary is part of the process.
Common knowledge here and the seller should have done that for you. Your problem was not a fault of the laws of two states not cooperating, it's a fault of the individual seller. In Ohio, the title is more of a "birth certificate" for the asset, it proves ownership and establishes where ownership responsibility and rights fall. That's why bringing a car into Ohio without one is a pain in the ass.

 

Done deal... I own it, transferred the title just now. 110 bucks...

 

You said earlier that you don't want to use/modify the original frame and want to get a new replacement because you're "no fabricator". Channeling a Model A takes more thought and fabrication than chopping because you're getting into re-engineering the pedals, steering geometry, etc etc. The work it takes to box and clean up an A frame is "beginner stuff" compared to redesigning the entire underside of your car and the mechanical components that will now interfere.

As others have said. I'd start by figuring out what cars you like visually and what your end goal for the car is. If you're on this site I'd assume you dig the traditional hot rod look and style. Then decide what's within your budget and skill level. If you aren't a fabricator as you stated I'd consider a hi-boy on a fabricated frame from one of the numerous hot rod shops that offer them. You can get the car sitting nice and low, but won't have to do as much fab work to get the entire inside of the car to work. Also if you're insisting on an OHV engine, maybe look at an early Caddy, Olds, Buick, engine as they can make plenty of power for a little car and are a bit more "correct" for a traditional hot rod. I can assure you in the long run a car built with one of those engines will be a lot easier to sell than a belly button modern crate Chevy engine.

My 2.5 cents!

 

Thank you Iron... I have done some metal work, but that does not make me a fabricator in my mind. I have built a few sets of fender well headers which came out pretty "well", and of course minor metal repair. My problem is I am often paralyzed by indecision. The stuff I know, I know... What it should look like and how it should perform, what looks stupid and/or inappropriate. I just don't have the experience with this generation of cars. I know muscle cars.

At this moment, I am leaning toward the 32 frame highboy with the dropped pan.

As far as engine choices, I am basing my decision on OTR drive-ability.... I know the old motors will do it, my BBC blower car hums right along at 60mph. Even though the car runs good, it's not something I would just drive an hour one way. My wife drives the blower car also, but she is not going to take it to her sisters house 40 mins away.
I have a Cleveland powered car that runs great also, but it's not really an OTR car iether

We are looking to drive, drive, drive this car. Park it carefully and try not to get caught in the rain.

I just rubbed it down and dusted the body in mat clear and it looks good. We will get this body straightened out first, then make our chassis choice.
The 32 high boy looks cool, and if we can dump the pan a few inches then perhaps the roof can come down a full 3"

 

I think it's great that you are willing to listen to the suggestions being made rather than charging into this project as if you know it all...as many young hot rodders do. There is much to be learned in order to build a good-looking, safe and driveable traditional hot rod...including the acceptance of your own limitations.

Given what you've written about this project so far, I'd suggest that you change your focus to include a bolt-together project based on a professionally-built chassis and modern drivetrain. There are countless shops that can build you a chassis - either an A or a Deuce - that is well-designed, safe and ready for you to bolt your body, engine, transmission and rear axle onto.

And (this will make some HAMBer's heads explode!) it may end up costing you less in the long run than trying to do it yourself. The basic rule-of-thumb in successful hot rod building is this: If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it.

I'm subscribed to your thread. Good luck!

 

It has one liter of matt clear on it. You really can't tell...

 

Some of us have Model A's on A frames with banger motors....something to consider, and it all bolts together nicely.

 

We are in a constant state of eval and re-eval on this project... If we decide to make it a weather dependant local car, then this chassis my end up with some manner of flat head. The expert body man came over last night and we made arrangements for the chop. By the time he can take the car we should have our minds made up. Since we have time, I guess we will run up to Moultry and check it out, learn some stuff....