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Technical motor mount problem

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Alaska Jim, Dec 25, 2017.

  1. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 319

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    my project 29 roadster on a kiwi Konnection pinched frame has been going slowly but steady. we mocked up the engine placement and found that the frame is a little narrower than we thought and we have a slight problem with the motor mounts.you can see in the enclosed picture that the water pump rubber biscuit mount and washers are sitting on the frame. this has the eng. a bit high in the front and we would like it to be level.does any one have any ideas, other than cutting into the frame and making a " notch/ pocket to make a mount plate. any one else have this problem, and if you did how did you solve it? Thanks for any help and suggestions-----Jim motor mount problem.jpg motor mount problem.jpg motor mount problem.jpg
     
  2. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 319

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    sorry about the multiple pictures, not sure what happened.
     
  3. broderickron
    Joined: Feb 18, 2010
    Posts: 13

    broderickron
    Member
    from Utah

    What motor are u running? Can u take a side view picture


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  4. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 319

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    Flathead, I will not be able to post any other pictures of it for a few days the car is in my brothers shop 50 miles away. here are the only other pictures I have at the moment
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 26, 2017
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  5. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    '49/'51 Mercury water pumps have the same style engine mount 'arm' but the arm is about 1 1/4" higher on the pump body. That would lower the engine relative to the frame rail. The Merc pumps would fit '48/'53 truck and '49/'53 car blocks for sure. Not sure if they also fit earlier blocks.

    Ray
     
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  6. uncle buck
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 1,880

    uncle buck
    Member

    Do some comparisons of flathead water pumps. I think you may have later 8ba water pumps that mount farther out.


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  7. cretin
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 3,066

    cretin
    Member

    I don't think you have a lot of options if you don't want to cut into the frame.
    You could change your mounting arrangement. Two solutions I see are re-drilling the mounting tabs on the water pumps and moving the rubber mount inboard.
    Or you could completely change the mounting configuration. Here is a photo of a mounting plate bolted to the front of a Lincoln flathead. It shares the bolts with the water pumps.

    IMG_2639.jpg

    That being said, I would probably modify the frame in your case.

    That is also some good info from @Hnstray and @uncle buck I didn't know they had differences like that.
     
  8. haileyp1014
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 933

    haileyp1014
    Member
    from so cal

    Kiwi konnection and squeak bell haven't been around for 10 years. I'd say cut into the frame and make some quarter cups.
     
  9. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,666

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    I'm cheap so I'd just relocate the holes (and cut off excess material) on the water pump's so mount's fit between the frame rail's.
     
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  10. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 319

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    The water pumps are from speedway and are supposed to be truck pumps are are supposed to be the recommended pumps ( forget where I read this ) for putting a flathead V8 in this application. I am aware of the differences in most of the flathead pumps, especially the 49-51 Merc. pumps. I have a '51 Merc, and I do have a spare set I could try, but the pumps that are on the block now look to give me the most clearance possible for room for the blower belt. haven't worked out the Alt. and fan problems yet , I haven't got that far. thanks for the suggestions.
     
  11. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 319

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    I bought this frame last year. Duane Jones is still working under the name of California Roadster Co. / Kiwi Konnection
     
  12. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,184

    choptop40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Redrill the the ones you have inboard and cut of the excess material if you have clearance....
     
  13. joee
    Joined: Oct 9, 2009
    Posts: 486

    joee
    Member

    why not just cut the rubber biscuit down ?
     
  14. Notch the frame and weld a piece of tubing in there like a C notch only vertical then you can drop the engine in where you want it. It will look kind of trick too.
     
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  15. mohead1
    Joined: Jan 18, 2013
    Posts: 599

    mohead1
    Member

    Notch frame, it wont affect strength if boxed back in

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  16. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,324

    Pete Eastwood
    Member
    from california

    Look at '55 Chevy V8 front motor mount rubber biscuits, I've used these for different applications.
     
  17. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,483

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    I agree with Beaner..Take your time and do a neat job and it will look and perform fine..Just be sure your drag link/pittman arm will clear engine pieces..
     
  18. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,946

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think I would us go with Cretin's suggestion. I can't see a boxing plate on the inside of the rail and it would be simple to cut a notch slightly larger than the outside of the biscuit and fab up a mount the right height with a curved piece fitted to the inside and slick it off to look like it was designed that way to begin with.
     
  19. 29AVEE8
    Joined: Jun 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,384

    29AVEE8
    Member

    An ever present problem with pinched frames no matter who made them.
     
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  20. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,946

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That might be the 10.00 fix That solves the issues. I used them for body mount pads when I swapped frames under my old 51 Merc.

    Still the rounded notch, boxing it in and lowering the mount is probably a no cash outlay mod that only takes a couple of hours of time and digging in the metal bucket/bin for a piece that you can make the filler out of. If the frame is boxed you could make the filler on the bench finish it somewhat and put it in place and weld it in.
     
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  21. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    I'd either do Eastwood's suggestion or Beaner's in second place.
     
  22. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,666

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    We're all sitting here screaming for Vanna White to turn over that last letter to see who has the right answer.
     
  23. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,077

    gene-koning
    Member

    They are all the "right" answers! Different people have different perspectives on how things should/could be done. In the end, the motor mounts have to keep the motor in the correct position. Alaska Jim now has a few options to choose from, which is what he was looking for. Gene
     
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  24. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,407

    oldolds
    Member

    I would not cut the pump and redrill those holes. You will ruin the core value and never be able to just replace the pump on the side of the road. Oh wait, he is in Alaska. He better have the pump with him to replace it! lol
     
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  25. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 319

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    You bet, you need to carry spares , and tools
     
  26. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 319

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    I would like to thank everyone that replied to my question. I now have several options, plus mine and my brothers ideas to go on. we have not made any decisions yet, but I do not think we will modify the pumps unless all else looks undoable . I do like porknbeaners idea. it is similar to one my brother and I have considered. when we finally get to it and finish it up, ( it will be awhile ) I will post pictures of what we decide. Thank you all.----Jim
     
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  27. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 2,076

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    Seems like a pretty easy solution. Buy some thick plate washers the same diameter as the rubber on the mount and bolt them to the bottom of the mount. Set engine back on frame. Draw a line where they intersect the frame on each side. This gives you your mounting position as well as how much to cut off the washer so it's flush with the frame. Weld the cut washer flush with the top of the frame( bevel the washer where it is to be welded to the frame so it can be ground flush) and add any support legs as necessary to the bottom of the washer. Your mount is done. A portion of the rubber will set on the frame but the mounting bolt will pass through on the inside.
     
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