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Hot Rods T Bucket Interiors

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tfeverfred, Aug 12, 2017.

  1. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    If I was going "period" or even close to it, paint would fit the scheme. But I'm no where near "period" or "traditional". I used truck bed liner before, because it was more durable than paint would have been. Here's a couple pics of the side panel templates mocked in.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The area that would be covered in bed liner is mostly hidden and of course, behind the seat is totally hidden. Also, with my seat material being black, like the bed liner, it all will blend in. I'm comfortable with the small amount of liner that will show. Like I stated earlier, if I had gotten a body without a door, I would have used bed liner on the whole thing and been done with it. But the door has a nice looking handle that sticks out a bit and the door would look REALLY bad with bed liner on it.

    I'm still going to play with ideas for the corners, but for now, this is what I'm going with. As for direction? This is going to be a simple, clean, Hot Rod. That's it. I'm not trying to fit a certain period or niche. It won't get put in shows because I out grew the need for that type of attention. The shows will come from driving her. Like my last one.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2017
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  2. wsdad
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,259

    wsdad
    Member

  3. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    The S/S screws and cup washers came in and I scored the rest of what I'll need to do the interior panels. First step will be to layout my wood strips, that the panels will attach to. I ended up with ABS plastic for my side panels. I was looking for Luan, but the employees at Lowe's kept giving me the "deer in headlights" look. I looked on my own and didn't find any. So, plastic it is. It's 1/16" thick and quite flexible, so I'm pleased with it. I wanted 1/8", but it just seemed too thick. I hope this decision doesn't bit me in the ass, later.

    And now, the tale of my wallet. What I got today, plus the screws, washers, foam and vinyl comes to..... $276. $65 of that was shipping costs. So, barring me screwing up, I'm well within my budget.:D
     
  4. I find a lot of placed don't know the name Luan it is really just 1/8' Mahogany plywood sometimes called Utility board. None of the box places carry it around here so one has to go to an actual wood store to get it.
     
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  5. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I’m going to hope along with you Fred that the 1/16” plastic isn’t a mistake.
    In my experience it can be hard to get the thin stuff to lay flat and once you do it can get wavy sitting in the sun from the heat.
    The only solution to that is having it well fastened down all around the perimeter.
     
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  6. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Yup......... fingers crossed. The reason I went with the 1/16" was that, on the driver side, the panel will need to bend around the door support, on that side. I think the 1/8" would have protruded out more than I wanted. In other words, it would have created an awkward looking lump, in the panel. I should be able to get the 1/16" to make a longer, more graceful curve or lump.

    I know that may not make sense, but you'll see what I mean, when I post pics.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2017
    Blue One likes this.
  7. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,710

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    upload_2017-12-20_14-58-6.jpeg
     
  8. wicarnut
    Joined: Oct 29, 2009
    Posts: 9,052

    wicarnut
    Member

    Looks like you have a plan, had a T-Bucket back in 60's and IMO the secret of comfort in a T is to be 5' tall and weigh a #100.(I did not) You probably don't meet that criteria, so your careful planning should work for you. Waiting to see your finished product. Have at it !
     
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  9. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    This evening, I decided to make a cover for the back of the seat. If you'll remember, there were exposed staples and I wanted to cover the wood. This also gave me a chance to see how the plastic would cut and how I'd handle the foam and vinyl. Before:
    [​IMG]

    I measured and marked a plastic panel. Using several shallow cuts, I was able to snap the plastic along my lines. Then, I used that piece to mark my 1/4" foam and cut it. Next, I cut my vinyl 2" larger than the panel. I angle cut the corners, where they would fold over the plastic panel. Then, I sprayed 3M Super 77 adhesive on the foam and plastic panel. Allowed them to get tacky and CAREFULLY bonded them together. I then sprayed adhesive on the vinyl and the foam side of the panel. Allowed them to get tacky and bonded them together.

    Next, I sprayed adhesive in a 2" strip along the back of the plastci panel, flipped the material over the panel and pressed them together. Here's a pic of the back of the panel. You can see how I cut the corners at an angle, so they wouldn't overlap.
    [​IMG]

    Before the adhesive fully dried, I pressed the vinyl into the edges of the exposed corners. There wasn't a lot of the plastic corner exposed, but I wanted this to look nice. Here's the face of the finished back piece.
    [​IMG]

    I placed it on the seat, to see how it came out. I'm liking it.
    [​IMG]

    There are a couple dimples, where I pressed on the foam with my elbow, while working. So, I probably didn't have to use adhesive on the foam and vinyl. The dimples may or may not come out, but it was a lesson learned. Tomorrow, I'll screw the panel into place. Then, I'll measure and cut my wood strips for the interior panels.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2017
  10. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Today, I drilled through the plastic, just enough to touch the foam. Then, I used a punch to go through the vinyl. The S/S screws went in easy.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    After the seat back was done, I measured, cut and placed the wood in the body where I want it to go. Notice I lettered and numbered each block. My memories not what it used to be.:D I'm not sure I'll use wood on the bottom of the panels or not. Because the panel vinyl will extend beyond the panels a few inches and be glued to the floor. Then, that part of the vinyl will be covered by the carpet. I'll make a decision later.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. JBurt
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 218

    JBurt
    Member

    I've been following your build from the beginning and you are doing great.
    Just a quick FYI for next time. Don't glue the vinyl to the foam, that allows the vinyl to move separately from the foam and the dimples would disappear.
     
  13. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,592

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I think if you could pull the fabric down and secure it that it will hold shape better.
    My luck with any glue has not stood the test of time.
     
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  14. I redid mine over the summer, once again using the shower stall plastic covering from home depot, it lasted 10 yrs the last time so why not. 20170819_130400.jpg
     
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  15. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    I was VERY close to buying some, but passed on it.
     
  16. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    When I looked at the panel the next day, the dimples were gone. Maybe I got luck, thanks for the tip.
     
  17. Looks good Fred!

    It is apparent you did a lot of thinking before you started cutting the material. HRP
     
  18. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    When you really can't afford to do things twice, thinking too much can be a good thing. Sometimes.
     
    Tim_with_a_T likes this.
  19. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,215

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    You could glue 3/4" foam [blue or pink] where there is no wood , would really help w/ rigidity...
     
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  20. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Hahha.... You guys kill me, when it's like you're looking over my shoulder.:D The wood pieces are 1/2" thick, so I was going to add a 1/2" of foam in the voids.
     
  21. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Bonded the wood in, this evening. Supposed to cure in 24 hours.
     
  22. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,299

    upspirate
    Member

    This is what I had mentioned a few posts back......covers the wood and looks good! Nice job ! The luan is also called "door skin" I believe at the big box stores
     
  23. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,730

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    What are you using for adhesive?


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  24. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    3M 5200 Marine Adhesive. This stuff is permanent! Here's a review of it. "It is very tenacious, and what ever you caulk with it may have to be destroyed if you ever choose to remove the item." While that was impressive, I had been fooled by adhesives before. So, after I finished installing my wood strips, I bonded a couple small pieces of wood to see how long it would take to set and cure.

    This morning, I tried to take them apart and it was a futile effort. I'd probably need a hammer and something to pry them apart. I checked my body and it was the same. That wood is on there for good. Happy with the results, I bonded a strip of wood near the floor on the drivers side, as well as adding a strip on each side, where the panels run next to the seat. They'll give me a few more attachment points for the panels.

    Earlier, it was suggested that I use foam in the voids behind the panels to help keep things rigid. This morning, I decided to just use small wood stripes and be done with it.

    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...t-5200-Fast-Cure/?N=5002385+3293241048&rt=rud
     
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  25. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,730

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    Thanks. I need to bond in some wood pieces to hold some panels. Previous owner used something that came off.


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
  26. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Here are the bonded pieces in place. As you can see, I added a few pieces. A piece along the bottom of the drivers side and a couple to fill the voids in the individual panels. The plan was to use foam in the voids, but I didn't think foam would be a rigid support. I used yellow pine in my structure because it's light weight and easy to screw into.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'm going to let them set until tomorrow. A light coat of black paint will finish this step. The black paint on the wood will mask any wood that may show up between the upholstered panels. Dark colors hide the sins of the amateur.;)
     
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  27. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Capping off the day was upholstering the panels. I did them the same way I did the seat back panel.

    [​IMG]

    If you look at the passenger side panel, you'll notice a flap I built into it. That flap covers the door support and latch assembly. I'm going to use velcro to keep it in place. Trying to get wood in that small cavity would have been a fight I probably would have lost.
     
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  28. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Well, I had to work a full day today.:mad: I'm beat. Got home and only had the strength to paint the wood strips that will support the interior panels. I used a very small dot of red paint to mark the holes in the interior panels for the screws. Then, I discovered the velcro I purchased isn't the kind with the adhesive.o_O Memo to self: Do NOT go shopping in a hurry!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'll install the panels tomorrow. Hopefully, my Christmas present will be a drama free installation.
     
  29. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Merry Christmas.... to me! Like a sleepless kid, on the night before Christmas, I couldn't help myself and went for my present early. With Chuck Berry's, "Chuck Berry Is on Top", cranking in the background, I got to it. The panels went in as planned. There was one minor glitch that I can live with. On the passenger side, I extended the vinyl a 1/4" past the template and the top of the panel covers the edge of the body. However, on the drivers side, I didn't do it. I just plain forgot and didn't make a note on the template to remind me. Shit happens. It's one of those things that's not really noticeable, unless you look closely and compare both sides. I'm okay with it.

    The flap on the passenger side, that covers the door brace, will get a strip of velcro to cover the gap. I'll get that next week. On the top of the door, I could use a screw in the middle, but again, it's not that noticeable. A 4" strip of velcro will fix that, because I'm not comfortable drilling a hole in the door. Looking at where the panels end, at the top corner of the seats, the black paint on the corner of the body is hardly visible, which confirmed my plan to either use bed liner on that area and the back panel or just paint it black. All in all, I'm very pleased with my first effort at an interior. Is it perfect? No. But it's pretty damn good, in my opinion and that's what counts.

    So, here are the pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

     
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  30. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    RodStRace, stated that I'd need something in the interior to tie in with the seat brackets and it looks like the S/S screws do that nicely. Totally by accident, but I'll take it.;)
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2017
    OFT likes this.

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