AKCJ, I will check with Napa. does the cj in your handle indicate Cobra Jet? are you a Mustang /Ford guy? if so you may have heard of, or know my brother Dennis Hackenberger. He is well known for his knowledge of ford stuff in Anchorage.
Good stuff. If I need to make up a couple of separate lines, I but a longer piece and cut it accordingly. Cuts the flaring in half. If I don't like the long fitting it comes with, I swap it out for a shorter one.
I actually was able to do both cars without any flaring, but two important things I found with working with the pre flared/fitted lines is planning the layout and knowing all components that need to be included ahead of time. Another thing I found was the fitted lines don't come in lengths we would commonly expect, don't recall the numbers but not full foot increments. It did take more than one trip to the parts store and I did have to order a couple sections. I don't like a lot of adapters in line systems but strategically placed junction blocks at 90 degree turns and using residual and proportioning valves as connectors helps greatly.
We have used the green line. Bends easily. We cleaned the ends to bare metal before flaring. The tubing was scuffed and then painted semi gloss black for a preferred look. We don't use our cars in the winter so we are not concerned with corrosion. That is just what was available at the local stores. I will have to try that copper stuff next time.
No on the Cobra Jet. I've got an Early CJ5 for roaming the hills. Not sure I've ever seen a real Cobra Jet. Yet.
I am an old fan of the CJ series jeeps . I had a 66 CJ 5 with V6 4bbl , headers and mild cam back in '75 in Calif. before I moved to Alaska. Had a lot of fun at the hill climbs back then
Hi Jim, Here is a breakdown of what types of brake lines and coatings are in the market right now. Zinc plated steel- This would be the brake line that would be considered closest to "factory appearance" with a dull silver coating. Not good for long term corrosion resistence but is popular due to its low cost. PVF coated - (PolyVinyl Flouride) This is the green tubing you are talking about. This tubing would be made from the same type of steel as the Zinc plated above, but the PVF (green) coating greatly increases the corrosion resistence. It is still a mild steel tube, so the tube is still not overly easy to bend and flare, but much easier than stainless for example. Nylon coated - This is what a few people on this thread have referred to as "plastic coated". It has great corrosion resistence, but is a pain because you have to be sure to peel away the coating from the ends to make a flare. We don't see this type of tube being used much by DIY guys. Cupronickel - (AKA Copper Nickel, Cunifer or Nicopp)- This is the best stuff on the market right now. Bends and flares with ease and will never rust. Also called 90-10 due to it being about 90 percent copper and 10 percent Nickel. Stainless- Everyone loves how stainless looks and we know it won't rust, but it can be extremely hard to bend and flare. We usually tell our customers that if their flaring tool cost less than $100, it probably won't work well with stainless. Hope that helps! Todd TheStopShop www.thestopshop.com 614-557-3442
A lot of pre-made lines come in 10" increments, up to 60" is the longest I've seen. Junction blocks are the best leak-proof way to join 2 lines. I do that too.
Do the pre-made Cunifer type lines have similar material tube nuts installed, or are they the usual zinc plated steel?
All the chain stores have the green We have a local store with the silver The silver seems to bend and flare easier
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