Projects Almost Funny - AWB Barracuda Funny Car Build

There are a lot of neat things I could do, but I probably won't...such as spindle mount front wheels.

I'm getting into "let's get this car built" mode now. It won't be as wild as lots of us hoped for.

 

It's about time you get in the garage and start building! Everybody here has built your car twice, in their heads!

 

Make it fast, cool and most of all safe. The rest will take care of itself. It's always more fun to hop up a running, driving car than looking at yard art until it's perfect.

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You need to check everything on those. Pressure test, Sonic the bores, width and fit of main caps and saddles, main and cam bore alignment, lifter bore alignment. Some of them were way off. Usually nothing a good machinist can't correct though.

 

I have looked online for a reproduction Barracuda body can't find one. Anybody aware of someone making one?

 

This block has had a lot of work done to it, all the stuff that Joel mentioned has been worked on. We'll see how well he did on it.

 

Sure you can!

 

that's not a slider window, is it?

 

The old dirt track guys around here would drill holes in the brake backing plates, and some went as far as removing any part of the backing plate that wasn't needed. The extra air helped lighten the load, and improved brake cooling.

Have you figured out your front axle yet? Gene

 

My buddy built a 2 Lane clone and he said the slider windows were unbearable hot allowing no air movement inside the car. He lasted one season in a Buffalo N.Y. summer and put the roll up windows back in the car.

 

I’ve seen slider windows that use the stock window track and lift from the bottom, using a seat belt strap (wrapped around a cleat so you pulled down on the strap to raise the window) and some Velcro for fastening. You could adjust the window height pretty well.

 

that's what I have in my Chevy, and what I plan to do to this car.

 

Excellent hope to see you there in my “new” hot rod.


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What will the bore and stroke be?

 

60 over bore 4.25 stroke for a 496 is my current thinking.

 

Will you still be doing the altered wheelbase/stretched nose thing? I hope so!

 

Yes, I will.

 

That's a good combination. You can squeeze in more stroke if you want. Using a crank with Chevy 2.2 inch Rod journals improves clearance issues and gets you a bigger choice of rods.

 

I think that's big enough for now. I was planning to use the Chevy rod size.

There are a lot of things to learn about these engines.

Reading and hearing about heads and looking at what folks are using, and what has which problems....I guess Stage V is the best setup. I'm also looking at the Mopar aluminum heads, although getting good information about the heads they are selling now is kind of difficult. I know they had serious issues with valve seats years ago...I don't know if they've fixed them or not.

I'd kind of like to use sort of OEM parts, to keep it slightly more period correct (and keep costs down a little), if they will work. I'm kind of a minimalist, I like to do the most with the least, when I can.

 

You are going to need close to 1000 horsepower that lives on the street. That's not a simple task, and still be a minimalist. You must be planning an overdrive/underdrive pulley swap? Vintage iron heads are pretty easy to come by, and they flow well with a bit of porting. But they are really heavy.
In aluminum, Stage v is very nice, and the replacement heads look like vintage iron heads when you paint them. Don't try to buy them right from Stage 5. Tim banning at For Hemis Only is the best source. His cnc stage v replacement heads flow 470 cfm at .700 lift . Not cheap though. But maybe with boost, you don't need that a killer head.

 

I'm not planning to open the valves real far. I think having high flowing heads is not really part of the plan. There's the problem of making the valve train live for lots of miles, and keeping lift, and spring pressure, at reasonable levels seems to help a lot.

I don't intend to swap the blower pulley, since the blower doesn't really do anything when the throttle isn't open very far, as in street driving.

 

I run 320 lbs on the seat. there are ways to fool the spring into thinking its stronger than it is. using titanium valves is one way. manley makes hollow stem valves. they are lighter than stock but not as light as titanium. they are cheaper than titanium. having titanium retainers and locks is money well spent. using a blower makes the situation more critical as the boosted air is pushing on the back of the big intake valve. good rockers also help reduce weight and deflection.

 

I'm shooting for a lot less spring than that...under 200 on the seat, under 500 open, is my wild guess. Not a lot of boost, or RPM.

 

It's coming together.
What HP are you shooting for?
Trans and gears?
What about weight?
It's interesting to hear your estimates of what's required.
just asking.

 

I completely agree with racer-x, spend wisely on good locks and retainers. Those big and heavy intake valves are like barn doors.

If this thing is still AWB, I'm in!

 

I'm going to have to sit down and do a bunch of numbers regarding weight... I'd like to keep it under 2500, but I dont know if I'll make it. I'd like it to get into the 8s, with somewhere close to 1000 hp at the flywheel. Considering a 727, and 3.54 or 3.73 gears in the rear.

I don't know if I can make it do that, but I'll give it a try.

 

A good journalist tells a story that captivates his audience. It's clear to understand that in the world of competition one never show's their Ace in the Hole.

 

I expect I'll be running in Unlimited, several seconds slower than the fast cars. So it doesn't matter who knows what I'm doing.