Technical 8ba flathead

I’ll send him a message and see what he has. Weigh my options some. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I did most of my own work and tried to save as much cash as I could and I ended up with around 4k in rebuilding my 4" stroke 0.060 over 8ba flathead. They are NOT cheap to rebuild.

Unfortunately around here in western pa... Probably 1 out of every 2 blocks that I came across are cracked across the exhaust valve seat into the cylinder in the center....even 2 motors that I heard run before buying!!!!!.. So you may buy a few engines to get a useable core. So if the head is off an engine look it over really well before you buy.

Ps. I know the guy with the v8 60..... He is a super nice guy......... ha ha. As as much as I would love to sell the v8 60. It really is best for a light car.

 

Yea he seems like a pretty good guy lol. I liked the v860 cause it’s odd and you don’t see them very often. Also like someone else posted. The size of them is just about perfect.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

What kinda car are you building?

 

31 Tudor sedan.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

About V8-60's. I had one long ago as kind of a novelty in the shop. I friend of mine knew about it, so when he saw an ad for one at a local auction, he told me about it. It looked to be fairly complete (with transmission), but it was very crusty and locked up. I thought "What the hell", and tossed out a bid. In the final analysis, I dropped out at $200 and the engine went for $860 (not including buyer's premium).

 

Patience and willingness to drive some distance is whats required to get you a much better deal. I have two 8B motors and one 59AB in my garage now that I did not pay over $150 for any one of them. Granted they don't always come with all the parts still attached but some do. I'm watching another right now for $250 that looks to be complete. I bought mine fully aware they may only be good for parts and as a leaning tool for disassembly but they are out there. Ford built a lot of these over the years so keep looking and stay away from the guys that want 2-3 K for an old engine that needs rebuilding.
Also agree you should forget the block with a hole and the V8-60. It's too small of a motor for your '31 and you'll likely regret the money spent and low power result.
Spread out your search range and keep looking for a better deal.

 

I see you live in Butler,Pa. Lots of hills down there. The V8-60 wont like the hills! I live in Corry,Pa. My son and I put a 60 in a 28 highboy roadster . It didnt pull hills till we went to 4:44 gears and a turbocharger. When the 60 blew a piston, we changed to an 8BA. Now it goes up any hill around easy.

 

Thanks for al the advice guys. Going to check out a few this weekend I think and see what I come up with. I also haven’t even started the chassis for this car yet. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row so I’m not waiting around on parts come time to needing them.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I bought my 8BA before I had a frame or a body...or a brain according to Mrs. BB. No regrets to the order I chose. Good luck with your build!

 

Cool on finding some interesting potential project engines at more of a reasonable price.

I keep seeing guys rave about old engines having "rebuilt tags" as if it was just rebuilt a few months ago. The engine on the other page was rebuilt November 3, 1964 Just over 53 years ago and probably was worn out again in the early 80's or earlier. The tag just tells you that that particular engine was .030 over and had a 10-10 crank in it. It does not mean that it is a somewhat fresh engine that won't need a complete rebuild again but should be looked at as an engine that does need a complete rebuild.
On flathead costs, I picked up a complete ran when we pulled it 8BA a few years ago for 400 for my Model A and that was the price I offered, might have got it for a lot less than that if I had played my cards a bit better but I knew the history of the engine pretty well. As others said they aren't cheap to play with and you really have to want to run one and not just because the cool guys have them.

 

I think the rebuild tag helps with knowing for sure what was done to the engine so your not just taking a guys word for a rebuild.

Yea they seem to be quite a commitment to make for your car. I have two small blocks sitting in my garage and two y blocks. But every time I tell myself I’m using one of them I just can’t picture that car being complete without a flathead. I haven’t broken the news to the ole lady yet that we’ll have to eat ramen noodles for the next year so I can finish this car, but I’m sure she won’t mind


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Overall, the late block (8BA) is a better choice for a real-world day-to-day engine. The cooling system is far better than the early scheme (so long as you don't screw it up with early center-outlet heads).

The absence of a dedicated bell housing lets you adapt any transmission you want without a lot of fuss; the cast-iron adapter used for truck engines neatly accommodates the early Ford trans, as well as a number of adapters, and the stamped steel bell housing used in passenger cars has the familiar four-bolt pattern common to decades of modern three- , four- , and five-speed manual boxes.

Crankcase breathing is improved with the late engine, so long as you use an intake manifold that accepts a road-draft tube.

While the bevel-drive distributor isn't as cool looking as the diver's helmet plugged onto the front of the block, it's much easier to live with. Just forego the original for a modern unit with full vacuum or electronic spark management. And you'll save yourself some problems in locating a cooling fan.

Just some things to think about . . .

 

Here you go, just a road trip away.
https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/d/hp-flathead-v8-ford/6419867021.html

 

heres one in central PA
https://allentown.craigslist.org/pts/d/ford-flathead-v8-engine-8ba/6393431202.html

 

and another in long island
https://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/d/flathead-motor-1950-ford/6408433405.html

 

and again
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/d/flathead-motors-and-parts/6390112572.html

 

Yea south jersey and Long Island are 6 to 8 hour drives one way. Also I’d hate to take 16 hrs of drive time and buy a motor and end up not being able to use it.




Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Having owned over 30 v8 flatmotors over a 55 year period,I never pay more than $100 for a block.Many sellers will say it runs; so what, they (engines) can still be cracked and run. I get $300 for a bare block and offer full return on your monies(30 days) if you find a crack that makes the engine NOT Buildable. Flatheads Forever!

 

That’s what I’m looking for. All the ones I’ve looked at have been together and nobody would come down on price since I could look for cracks. I think most people that get a flathead that don’t know about them google it and then price it according to what they see running engines go for and figure they’re sitting on a gold mine and won’t budge.

Finding a knowledgeable guy like you that understands the problems with these motors is what newbies like me need to do so we don’t end up with the cracked blocks laying in the garage before we get a good one.

If you got a spare laying around chuck that thing in a box and ship her my way. I’d be glad to pay 300 for a block I Know isn’t cracked.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

This is the type of info I need. I can read all the articles I want on line. But when it comes down to it the guys with the engines give the best advice.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/pts/d/ford-flathead-hot-rod-parts/6394501991.html