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Ackerman Angle with Aftermarket Steering Arms

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gimpapotamus, Sep 15, 2011.

  1. Gimpapotamus
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 95

    Gimpapotamus
    Member

    Im working on getting the front end of my Model A set up. Running an original A axle thats been dropped, split A bones, and 37-41 spindles. I scooped up a set of Super Bell dropped steering arms to clear the bones. My question is... How do you properly account for and set Ackerman angle when using aftermarket steering arms?

    Thanks
     

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  2. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    The acerman angle is set by running a line fron the center of the king pin to the center of the rear diff. your steering arms need to run in the center of that line.
     
  3. Gimpapotamus
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 95

    Gimpapotamus
    Member

    Yes sir. I definitely have the understanding of Ackerman. I apologize if I was unclear with my question. Im wondering what I would do with the aftermarket steering arms if the Ackerman angle wasnt correct when I bolt them on. For example shimming them or heating and bending them in or out so that I could correct Ackerman if need be. I would rather ask questions now before I go screw something up.

    Thanks again
     
  4. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,194

    trad27
    Member

    Any good FORGED steering arms I dont see a problem in heating and bending them. But cast ,wich would be stupid for a steering arm anyway, is a big no for bending.
     

  5. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Most of the good aftermarket arms have reasonably close ackermann designed in, so you bolt them on and go. I've never seen the need to heat and bend them, except down to give some wishbone clearance, and they heat and bend pretty well.

    I think you could potentially do more harm by heating and bending them than by just leaving them alone and going with the preset ackermann. I say "potentially" for fear they are heated and cooled incorrectly.

    Don
     
  6. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    If all you need is a minor adjustment to get the ackerman right, you might be able to grind a little meat off one of the threaded bosses to change the angle of the dangle.
     
  7. hotrawd
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 193

    hotrawd
    Member
    from lima,ohio

    Most of the bolt-on arms that I've installed seem to be designed for a longer (115" or so) wheelbase. On a car with a shorter wheelbase,such as a Model A, I simply shim the arms inward. Just make sure your bolts are long enough if you need to add more than an 1/8" shim.
     
  8. Close enough is good enough, for Ackerman.
    As long as the tie rod is on back, no problems.
     
    thunderbirdesq and bct like this.
  9. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,219

    sunbeam
    Member

    RICH B and AndersF like this.
  10. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  11. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,847

    butch27
    Member

    That is awful !!
     
  12. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,932

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I can't even begin to imagine how crap to drive that truck must feel. Shocking understeer at any speed!

    Chris
     

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