Hot Rods I need some advice please

Hello,
I need to get surface rust off some delicate parts. And some areas are hard to get to. Example, 32 grill shell, package tray, metal header panel, ect. I am having a real rough time removing the rust. I was quoted $100 just to have the grill shell blasted. I feel like I should know the answer but I don't.

Please help with ideas, pictures would also be helpful. Thanks.

 

Iodine works on rusted cylinder walls, never tried it on tin.

 

Molasses bath.

 

I like to soak it in cider

 

Hmmmm I feel your pain...although I don’t have too many solutions for you, know that I sympathise with your predicament.

Your header panel should unscrew ? Sand it by hand ? Same with your grille?

I tried a vinegar solution with mixed results, but it was cheap and easy. 50/50 mix white vinegar to water. Media blasting, or hand sanding might be your only choices, but I’m hoping others will chime in with success stories.


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Were you quoted $100 just for the grille shell or is because they have a $100 minimum? Some shops are so busy with work, they don't want to be bothered with small jobs.
At $100, just for the shell, I'd be placing the $100 towards a small blast cabinet if you have room for it, or do it on your property if you have the yard space.
Or find a local rodder that will do your blasting at his garage for a better price.

 

Citric acid.

 

I have a small blaster from Sears that I have used on small stuff. However, I had a below decklid panel off a 33-34 that was new but set around and got surface rust on it (all over). I laid paper towels on it and soaked them with concentrated lemon juice and let it sit for a couple of hours. Hosed it off and it look new again. A friend used this method to soak a '32 door lock Took three days but removed all the old rust!!

 

I know I'm real Old so this may sound stupid but doesn't anyone hand sand anymore? I know they started making this stuff called Scotch Bright a while back. I have used some of that in lou of sandpaper for on some stuff. It was almost like polishing the paint off. Worked real good for me. Have you ever body worked after Sand Blasting? Being my 57 was going Black I did this complete car with Scotch Bright.

Here is is after new paint. Believe me, it was worth a little extra time.
Grill shell, package tray, header; Heck you wouldn't even brake a sweat and your $$$$ is still in your pocket.
The Wizzard

 

Man,if you were closer we would through the parts in my bead blasting cabinet and it wouldn't cost you a dime. HRP

 

White vinegar with a small wire brush will do wonders on light rust. Less than $4.00 a gallon. Wash and neutralize with soda and water.

 

If you're having a real tough time removing the rust, then it's probably a bit deeper than what we normally call "surface rust".

Call a few different automotive machine shops, see if you can find one that wants to do some bead blasting for a reasonable price. Or spend a couple grand on a nice blast cabinet, then go into business doing other guys' stuff to pay for it.

http://www.tptools.com/Most-Popular-Skat-Blast-Cabinets.html

 

saw some stuff on tv called evapo rust. looked like it did a real good job.

https://www.evapo-rust.com/

 

Oxalic acid, wood bleach, does a great job of derusting, a little milder than vinegar, and very inexpensive.

With any liquid treatment, You still need to brush / scrub the surface, needs to be accessible.

 

Metal Prep from Industrial Metal Supply. It has phosphoric acid in it I think. I squirt it on and rub with scotchbrite. Only really works for light surface rust though, but leaves a protected finish. Anything heavier and the strippit type discs make short work of it (especially the ones that fit to an angle grinder) but create a lot of dust. My blast cabinet isn't necessarily always in service. I've never tried any of the immersion techniques!

Chris

 

I have used white vinegar. Works great but you have to neutralize it immediately after removing from the vinegar as it will start flash rusting within minutes of coming out if you don't.

 

I`ve used finishing pads, same as scotch bright, grey color= 0000 steel wool, with brasso polish.
requires a little elbow grease, works good.

 

Another vote for a molasses bath. About as cheap as you can get and it really works well on rusted sheet metal. Drawback is its slow, but it comes out looking like it never had rust once you clean it. And it doesn' t flash rust like when you use vinegar.

 

Thanks for all the answers. It is more than just surface rust. Where does a guy find that much molasses?

 

Tractor Supply

 

electrolysis works too

 

+1 on the black strap molasses, mix it 7 parts water to 1 part black strap. Soak it a week, pull it out, rinse with water and your done. No harsh chemicals, eats only rust and nothing else. Dump it just about anywhere as it's non harmful to environment.

Seen a complete model a done this way, I was totally amazed. The wire wheels were spotless and no rust, even the crevices were spotless.

 

Try Crosby Farm and Ranch Supply or Tempe Feed. Most large animal feed stores carry feed grade molasses. It's usually around $2 to $3 per gallon. Mix it 7 parts water to 1 part molasses. Find an old kiddie pool, fill it up with the mixture, dump your parts in there, cover it with a piece of plywood and wait a few days. Pull the parts, hose 'em off and you'll have near virgin metal!
Here's my write-up on the process.....................
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rust-removal-the-miracle-of-molasses.557996/

 

Hmmmmm.

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Thanks. That just might work.

 

did a complete truck cab in mollasses and worked great......since then i have done many panels in citric acid and have found it far better,quicker and no smell....will not hesitate do do the same in future....oh yeah...and cheap

 

Phosphoric acid. Get it from Home Depot. It’s green in color. Spread it on buy brush and let it sit for a day or two. Power wire brush it and sand. Repeat the steps as needed as long as the rust isn’t too heavy.


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Yup, that's the way. Get it at the feed store, mix 7-1. For a container, I just hammer together a perimter out of old 2x8s and then lay a blue tarp over it and fill it up. And yes, cover it--keeps the racoons out.

 

Totes make good molasses tanks, too. Cover keeps water & critters out and the smell in.

 

Evaporust is the best product I have used. I like it so much I buy it by the 3g jug now. The only down side to Evaporust that I have seen is if you forget about your piece submerged say for a week or two it leaves a black coating on the item that is hard to remove. I use it on delicate stuff constantly, never disappointed with the results.

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