Projects Oil pan conflict with tie rod and steering drag link.

I am installing a freshly rebuilt 1949 ford flathead v8 in a 1941 ford frame. Engine oil pan (center sump) I'd directly over steering rods preventing engine from dropping down to engine mounts. Frame has 4 inch dropped axle and three front leafs removed from spring. Have read a '48 - '52 Ford truck pan or the '49 - '50 Merc pans with rear sump may be the solution. Looking for help deciding - pros and cons and gotcha's, as well as any help on sources. Thanks

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I'm solving my problem with these. Maybe they'll work for you too.

 

My steering arms are just 3/4 inches above my front wishbone - think these would cause tie rod to hit the wishbone. Thanks though for the idea.


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I have a stock engine in my car with a dropped axle and spring, and it clears fine. They were rear sumo stock, so if you get a rear sump man for your 8BA, it should fit fine

 

Either the truck pan or the Merc pan should work. They are almost the same.

 

I used the 49-51 Merc rear sump oil pan to solve that problem. Looks like this pan.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-1...ash=item212bd1182f:g:XPMAAOSwDuJWwi6Z&vxp=mtr
Engine is an 8BA with 8RT wide belt pumps, 4 inch dropped axle with dropped steering arms and a
Posie #2040 reversed eye spring. Car is 40 Ford in avatar. Has stock drive train.

 

Why are the steering arms above the wishbone on a 41? The tie rod should be under the wishbone.

 

Running an 8ba in my '39 p/u. Using a truck pan with no issues.

 

I'm running a truck pan in a 39 coupe,dropped axle,all is well.I have one extra message for info.

 

Because it has a 4 inch drop axle


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Thanks

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I agree with Thunderbirdesq, the steering arm and drag link should be under the wishbone. With the 4" drop axle you should be using dropped steering arms or bend the stock steering arms to clear.

 

There is a lot of info. on the web about heating and bending your steering arms. Not a big deal if you have a torch and some hot rod savvy. good luck.

 

Oil pan swap or not, the steering linkage needs to be under the wishbone. Even if the pan clears in mock-up, there needs to be adequate clearance for the suspension to cycle fully without contact between the steering parts and the pan/chassis. Hit a large bump, or god forbid, have a spring or shackle failure and the oil pan is potentially laying on the steering linkage. Not good...

 

Thanks for the photo. helpful

 

Thank you for the input. I am going to take your suggestion and rework my steering linkage before I do anything else. Who knows, I may find I dont even need to change pans once I get my linkage in the right place. Will just need to do some research on my options to do that and try to get it right this time.