Hi Everyone, First of all, thank you for such a great site and for all the knowledge you guys share. In my case, the knowledge is minimum and the experience is less so you guys make it so much easier for someone that loves tinkering around old cars. I am about to take on my next project, a 1930 Ford Model A roadster. I am yet to start working on it, but as soon as I start, I will start a thread for it. My plan is to keep it somewhat traditional. The plan is to use a 59AB that H&H rebuilt for me earlier this year which has been waiting for the right project to come along. I also have a freshly rebuilt T5 transmission, which I am debating to use or go with a '39 Ford unit. Now I've done multiple searches here and google but I am yet to find answers to some of my questions. If anyone can help me and clear my direction, I will greatly appreciate it. I want to sit it on a pinched '32 frame (aftermarket) and I am debating between Black Board Hot rods or Clarke Hot Rods. Can anyone share their experiences with either one of these frames, pros and cons, or recommendations of one? I am planning on using a Steadfast subrail kit. I've been looking for a profile picture of the rear wheel wells to no success. How are the rear wheel wells mate to the frame? Do the rear wheel wells get trimmed to the profile of the bottom of the frame or do they remain stock, straight at the bottom, and are "u" cut for rear axel travel? I will not be running fenders and will be a high boy. I plan on turning the rumble seat into a trunk. For the floor inside the trunk, with the Steadfast sub rail kit installed, can I use a stock trunk floor kit or will the sub rail kit force a custom floor to be made? Rear end. What's a good rear end to use with either T5 or '39 transmission? I like the look of the transverse leaf suspension and if possible I would like to use it. Will the use of transverse leafs require them to poke inside the trunk. In most cases, I see a hump added to the back of the trunk. As for the windshield. My plan is to chop it 3". The question is, what additional work is require to laid back the windshield, or is that something the '30 windshield doesn't require vs. 28/29? Again, thank you all for the help.
Be sure to make friends with someone in the DMV before you go to far. Get their number and keep going back to them. Send them a Christmas card and keep them posted on the project. Charlie Stephens
Charlie, you are right on the money. I will have my frame inspected and registration done before starting any work. I went through the DMV nightmare process with my '36 truck when I used a custom frame and I even added YOM plates to make it harder but it all worked out at the end.
@roll of the dices congratulations on your new project. Your best bet is the search...several builds have went through the forums. You have been around for a bit and sometimes search the Hamber out and go through their thread posts and find projects that way. Hambers such as @Flop have done a few A roadsters/coupes and have quite detailed pics and he as most others readily answer queries. It's a full time job searching I know. The subrail kit to 32 has been done here. Maybe Youtube and perhaps the place who produced the kit has video support. If I see anything I will shoot it your way...
I’d use a 37-41 rear Banjo axle or if you want a 9” Speedway sells kits pretty cheap that includes the housing and axles. For an original 9” look for a 57-59 Ford car or 66-76 Bronco. The Bronco rear has the 5x5.5 lug pattern too. You can use a 33-36 rear spring or put a Model A rear crossmember in and use an A spring. If you use the later spring no floor hump is required.
Hope its ok to follow along. I have been working on this recently, truthfully,I don't like the visual mismatch at the wheel wells. Most pictures on the web are of stock wheel wells, probably coil over ,or notched for axle,probably transverse spring? Appearance aside, it looks to me as though the rumble seat could be retained as there is space to bring the frame up through the floor pan even to the seat base. It may be possible, as well, to construct a cross-member tight against it but i haven't mocked it up yet. Brookville andP&J's did similar work and rumble seat with Steadfast subrail width is dealt with in the HR link http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1301rc-steadfast-sub-rail-kit/ Thanks for posting this topic! Lowtek32
@roll of the dices, you may have seen this already but links to info https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-hot-rod-fabrication-chassis-builders.773143/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lets-build-dad-a-model-a-on-32-rails.772520/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-body-on-1932-frame-subrails.422193/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-inner-fenders-on-32-frame.1053529/ The search where I found all above... https://www.google.ca/search?q=stea...AhXJ4IMKHU1wD_4QrQIISygEMAQ&biw=1920&bih=1007
Hi, I am also building a 30 roadster using a flathead and a t5 combo mated to a '40 Banjo. I am using a blackboard hot rods pinched frame, it's very nice for a decent price. Check out this build for the windshield posts. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/coal-bin-1930-model-a-roadster.799003/page-2
I am currently working on a 30 Model A on a 32 frame by Black Board Hotrods and using the Steadfast subrail kit. My build thread here on the HAMB is the Clark Coupe Build. I just did a 3" chop. I will be trimming the rear wheel wells to match the profile of the bottom of the subrails.
etboy, nice build thank you for the info. I ike the idea you had with the front cowl to meet the frame.
I'm just getting started on a similar build. 30 roadster with a 59AB, T5 trans, pinched '32 frame by Blackboards with A front and rear crossmembers and a '40 rear end. I can't answer most of your questions, I'll be figuring all of that out as I go. I've been following some of the other threads mentioned above. So much great info here on the H.A.M.B! I can say that if you elect to go with a Blackboard frame get on the waiting list now, it's about a 3 month wait. Mine took a bit longer because I was interested in a 33 style X member he was prototyping. Gary at Blackboards was great to work with and helped me figure out exactly what I wanted/needed for my build. Have fun! Here's a couple pics of my frame with that X member that was worth waiting for.
Motmo, that looks pretty cool. I didn't realize they had a waiting list but I guess any reputable frame builder would have one. May I ask why the '33 style X-member. what's the benefit to it? Thx,
i used a Blackboard frame on my 31. NON-pinched frame. Gary builds a great product. i also drilled all factory 32 holes and riveted side rails. for Orig. look all 39/40 driveline with an A model rear crossmember for QC the rear section i cut and remade floor using frame contours myself. and Quickchange clearance. i also used rumble decklid windshield i believe was chopped 4 in. i cannot quite remember. ill look for a few photos. it was a fun car to build. Andy @bali-rod
For me it is mostly just looks. I'm not a huge fan a the tube style X members and liked the more "nostalgic" look of it. I wish I had the skill and time to collect and build a frame from original parts, so this is the next best option for me. He also recessed the boxing plates which is another small detail that I like.
Thank you for all the input, info and threads you suggested. I talked today to Gary at Blackboard and already gave my down payment to get on his waiting list. Hopefully in 3.5 months I will have a great foundation to start my project. I am back to collecting parts for now.
Sound really similar to my build. Just another A roadster build. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/Just-another-A-roadster-build..550285/ Almost ready for paint. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/Almost-ready-for-paint..975614/ Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Great threads. Thanks for sharing Like how you did the pedals with the T5...that is one of those many questions I have.
Invaluable info, thanks! Just joined and not sure how I would pull off my build without some of it. I too am building a 30 roadster with a 354 hemi and just waiting on my Blackboard pinched 32 style frame. Gary should have it for me in 1.5 - 2 months. He has been awesome to deal with and I was very impressed in meeting him, touring his shop and seeing his work. Great to see so many of you are using the same builder, it confirmes the right choice (and now I can see why the wait time ) . I will certainly spend some time checking out the links.....
Here are a few photos of my recent steadfast installation in my '31 (So-cal pinched '32 chassis). I raised all my cross members up level with floor rails- Lowers the body to hide the body to frame joint a little over an inch. So I didn't use Steadfast's small brace (plug welded some square tubing inside the joint of the old floor rails to the Steadfast). Just traced the chassis cutout profile to then transfer to the wheelwell. Welded the end of the vertical profile back in to keep it looking finished.
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