Will a steering box and column from a 47 ford fit in a 36 ford? If so, what modifications are necessary?
Try to find a 37-40 ,its the same length(shaft & mast jacket).The later ones will work but a 1.25" inches longer.You will have to change the bracket that is riveted and spot welded in the frame and use the 37 and later bracket.Bob Drake reproductions makes those.I have heard that by redrilling 1 locating hole you can use that bracket that exists.I have done this conversion a few times.
Thank you. I just got a 47 column and took it all apart. I will try to mix and match the parts to make it work. I presume I will need a dash mounted headlamp switch to do this.
I don’t think the hole redrill option is what you want to do If I remember correctly it puts that lower hole almost out of the frame mounting bracket Better to bite the bullet and remove the stock 36 bracket and install Drake’s unit It’s a fight but worth the aggravation Relocate the lock collar on the steering shaft and the ignition lock works like stock as well Google the process I found a very detailed tutorial when I did mine Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thanks. I took apart the 47 column and it looks simple to shorten the shaft and relocate the lock collar, if I use the 36 column tube. I called another source and asked if he has a 37 to 39 assembly, which would let me use the stock headlamp switch and horn wiring. Waiting for the reply. This will probably be a winter project if I dont sell the 36.
To use the stock light switch on the 37 and later box you will need the 37-39 bracket and bale(wire clip).On the 37 box the locking collar is in the correct location.On the 38-39 its up just a bit closer to the wheel end.If you shorten the shaft I recommend you weld a sleeve(1/16" thick) on the outside .The horn rod must slide down the hole without obstruction.Make sure the 36 horn rod will fit in the '47.40-48 0nly had a wire down thru the shaft so dia might not be same.Also make sure the keyway for the steering wheel is in the correct location so your wheel is centered when mounted.You do have an adjustment at the drag link so getting it close is okay.
Thanks. I will cut the shaft so that it leaves a half of the shaft on each piece, so they overlap, weld that, then a collar over that. I will check to see if the horn rod will fit the hole in the shaft. I am not in a big hurry to do this, so I have put out the word for a 37-39 column, which will make things easier.
I made a tube that was a light press fit on the shaft. Welded it to one shaft part and then was able to work with the rotation and angle to get them right. Nice fillet welds are all that is needed. Also make the tube small enough for the bearing to go over it.