Hot Rods Trouble under the hood of the 56 chrysler

I took the 56 Chrysler in to town the other day to do thanksgiving shopping. She has been running great these past months. On the way in to town she felt like she was cutting out a little.I let off the gas and then she was fine and was back up to 60 M.P.H. Coming home she did the same thing so I did the same thing again and she was fine. I had the carb rebuilt over the summer by a carb guy. She always has a little hesitation. I always though it was the accelerator pump. Yesterday I changed the position of the accelerator lever{there are 2 positions to put it in} and the flat spot disappeared, but when I tried to speed up the idle with the gas pedal she started running like crap. I put the lever back where it was but still the same thing. I checked the dwell and it was right on the money. I took out the stone gas filter thinking maybe it was clogged{I have the old glass bowel filter} still the same. I looked down the cab and saw it was getting gas. Boy I am REALLY hopping she hasn't jumped timing. Tomorrow I will pull out # 1 plug and bring up to top dead center and see where the rotor is pointing .Any ideas will help. Mean while you all have a HAPPY THANGIVING. Bruce & Teresa .

 

I would pull the cap and look at the points sounds almost like your condensor gave up the goat. That is almost exactly how my car acted. a timming light would be a easy way to check if it jumped time

 

doyoulikesleds.Thanks for the tip.I am glad I kept the old stuff{I think lol} I will let you know.Thanks Bruce.

 

Time to put in that SBC Bruce! Ha!

 

If it jumped a tooth on the timing chain, it would be very hard starting, barely idle, and would have no power at all. Most of the time they won't run unless you have the throttle at least 1/2 open. I doubt that is your issue.

I think the condenser is a possibility, as maybe a coil starting to fail, but I might suspect a weak fuel pump, partly clogged filter, or a pin hole in a gas line or hose. Since your original problem started at higher rpm (60 mph) I would look for what might cause there to be not enough fuel or fuel pressure at higher rpm. Gene

 

Hook a vacuum gauge up
It will tell you pretty quick what’s going on with your timing

Sounds like fuel or spark starvation at higher rpm
Check your battery , fuel pump, cap points, coil etc, pull all plugs and look, could have a cracked plug or carbon tracking
It sounds like it will be something silly in the end, don’t over think it and start at step 1 so nothing gets missed

 

I also do not think it jumped timing Bruce. Check the simple stuff first, fuel PSI, condenser , plugs, coil, etc. Maybe as simple as a bad batch of gas.

 

It may be condenser but I suspect fuel delivery.
Either rust or water in fuel or pin hole in fuel line.

 

Possibly a vacuum leak?
I see the power brake unit, they have been none to be troublesome.
KK

 

Gene.i swapped the coil, it is hard to start now and barely idles and really stumbles as you increase the gas. if I really increase the power it runs but real rough, I wouldn't even be able to back it out of the shop.She ran great the other day???? I will try everything today. Thanks to you all. Bruce.

 

Wash your mouth out with soap!

Ben

 

Bruce, a quick and dirty way to check for fuel that I use. Remove the air cleaner. Top only if it gives a clear path to the carb throat. After starting, or before if need be, dribble or spray gas into it. This lets me know if it is gas related. Good luck.

Ben

 

Have you been getting any rain or high humidity down your way? Check the inside of the distributor cap for condensation and maybe spray down all the ignition system with WD40 to displace any moisture.

If you have an automatic choke make sure it's working properly and that the choke valve is opening fully after the engine warms up. And as already mentioned, check for split, cracked or dried out vacuum hoses.

 

"...And go to your room"

 

This is a good point. That very thing has taken place in some cars I have owned over the years.

 

"90% of carburetor problems are ignition related."

 

My money is on the condenser. They always seem to be the weak point in the ignition, and can easily fool you into thinking fuel delivery problems instead. Dribbling fuel into the carburetor is a quick way to dispel that avenue.

 

4X on the condensor and dampness in the cap as said above.
Good luck

 

This ^^^^

 

Don't worry Firstinsteele.I LOVE my 331 motor.LOL. Bruce.

 

Ben Thanks for that information.I will try it.Bruce.

 

I will keep you all posted how I make out.Thanks for all the information.Bruce.

 

Let's see the quality of the spark - coil wire should be able to jump 1/2" to ground. Nice fat bluish spark to plugs, not red or yellow.

 

O.K. you all I pulled # 1 spark plug out and had the wife crank the motor over till it came up on the compression stroke. I felt the piston come to the top. I pulled the cap off and the rotor was pointing to # 1 plug wire so it didn't jump timing. I found a old condenser and put it in and she fired right up, adjusted the timing and took her for a ride .She ran like a scaled dog. Who would such a small piece could cause so much trouble.Here it is .Only a year old. Where can I get a dependable one? Thanks again to all for your help. Bruce.

 

Its hard to get good ones these days bruce, buy 2 and keep on in the glove box. The other option is to go electronic ignition. Hot heads sells a shaft to convert the mopar small block distributor to the proper length for a chrysler poly/hemi.

 

^^^^^^^^^^ Bruce this is your best long term solution.

 

It's easy to find good ignition parts, just not at the 'Zone. Everybody knows the import shit sucks but they still stock them anyway.

I bet you have a couple in yer junkbox made in the '50s or '60s, Bruce. I've got a half dozen or so that still test fine at 600 volts DC, for some reason nobody can make an automotive condenser at a price point any longer. I'm surprised the one you had lasted that long. Lots of NOS or NORS on that auction site. When points were the only game in town a lot of mechanics would leave them alone during a tuneup if it was otherwise running good, and just replace the points.

In a pinch any modern poly film capacitor rated 0.22uF or 0.25uF @ 600 to 1000 volts should work fine but it might not fit inside the distributor, some are pretty chunky. Radio Shack doesn't sell these anymore. Mouser and DigiKey etc do. Automotive capacitors have to pack a lot of capacitance at a high voltage rating, in a small package.

 

Arominus, Dirty Old Man and Truck64 are right. Any time you are out junkyarding, collect condensers if you find them. The best ones are off of tractors and old trucks - even old yard tractors, because they use magnetos. The pigtail is their weak point.

 

Glad thats all it was Bruce, good job. Now have a drink and relax, or go for another ride. LOL.

 

At least we know the Donkey's not at fault.