So, been building cars a long time, I usually get someone who is a mechanic to do the intricate mechanical stuff, I build the chassis and mount said mechanical stuff into chassis and build the car around it. As some will know, I've torn out the rear, a gm ten bolt out of my 36 and replaced it with a nine inch 74 bronco. Apparently, this rear was in a six cylinder bronco, 4:11 gearset, 28 spline axles, 5 on 5 1/2 inch bolt pattern, I am gonna give it a rebuild, go to 3:50 gears and redrill the axles to 4 3/4 bolt pattern. Ummmm that's my plan.....but I haven't got a friggen clue as to how to redrill axles, or who to get replacements from, I need those in the know to clue me in. I can read the info provided on the net, but because I don't know what I'm looking at I don't understand nine inch lingo. I need the basics from tearing apart an old crusty, been outside too long smooth turning yoke and relatively clean oil rear end to a new looking painted nice, perfectly functioning maybe race once in awhile rear end. Got it mounted, now need to rebuild it. Sounds stupid, but I've always concentrated on what I know, and left the mechanical stuff to people who know that stuff better than me, while I weld up what's needed to fit it under the car.
I've not had good luck with redrilled axle bolt patterns and much prefer aftermarket axles (If you can afford them).
you would need to turn down center register too......i would just buy aftermarket 31 spline axles in the bolt pattern and register you need and upgrade to a corisponding 31 spline posi when you rebuild the 3rd member/swap gears......pay attention to the type of ends/spacing you have when buying axles and brakes.....plenty of identification guides on the net to show you the difference between small, large, and torino ends as well as 2 1/2" vs 2 3/8"......
I'd think that there was a shop in BC that you could have the axles redrilled for a reasonable cost. Dutchmans that used to be in the Portland area but moved to the Boise area does the axles for 65 a pair and the drums/rotors for 45 a pair. https://www.dutchmanaxles.com/services Local shops shouldn't be far off those prices. Maybe one of the local BC guys can offer up a suggestion on a shop or you may have to make a trip down to the Seattle area.
I have a couple of sets. They work well. See above. I have done more than a dozen, including my daily-driver. Zero issues.
Well, looks like some have had good success with redrill, I still prefer the aftermarket axles. If you intend to race it, it may be a requirement.
trollst: Check this out. lots of great 9 in. info. you can use. http://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/9-inch-ford-rear-axles.html http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/02/nineinch/
And that is why they make every damn thing new for a 9". A guy spends considerable effort tracking one down, getting it to the project and now ,,, toss the axles, toss the gears, toss the carrier and might as well get new backing plates for the new brakes and new drums because the old ones were tossed. Could send the chunk out and have it set up with new gears and carrier or just buy the chunk set up the way you want and toss the non "N" chunk too. Then your left with an original ford housing that's nasty and rusty you at this point you're probably further ahead tossing it too and buying a brand new housing.
Well what I thought was to refurbish the one I have, needs new brakes, everything including drums, redrill the axles for chev bolt pattern, and change up the gears for a higher ratio. Seemed simple enough, not a lot of cash spent, but maybe not, may end up buying new after all once I figure the cost of a total refurbish. Still looking for more opinions and ideas.
That's still a real good plan, Until you start throwing parts away and throwing money at new parts. Rotten Lenard's re drill jigs do work great. The 9" axles have the access holes for the bearing retainer and that can be a problem if the repositioned stud lands on that access hole. Another option if you have the room is a machined adapter that's Hub centric to the axle and the wheel. For a guy who's going to be or advising to or opinining that changing everything is better then it's better to get everything new on the 9". Lately My favorite go to rear is the Ford 8.8 for many reasons
Yep, if cost is a factor you can basically get a 8.8 rear already equipped with most of the 'desired' options for a fraction of the cost of a rebuilt or 'new' 9". The other added benefit is the 8.8 is more efficient compared to the 9" in terms of power loss through the gears, which is why Ford quit using the 9".
If it was just axles with different bolt patterns, I'd say check with Strange, Currie, etc...not a lot of money...but, last rearend I did was a 9inch, ordered the whole shabang (less drop in) from Currie width to my specs, centered housing, etc...for around 1100$ I just set up my drop in, slid the axles in and was done...yes a bit pricier in one chunk of change, but I was starting with nothing, except a donated 9inch dropin. Otherwise I'd have been a glutten for punishment and spend about the same going through what I had..
Same here. Unless there is a specific desire/need for a 9", I look for an 8.8 first. I know guys putting over 1200lb-ft through them, intermittently, in 4x4 rigs, with suitable upgrades, without destroying them. They come in 56-1/2", 58-1/2", and 59-1/2" from trucks/Explorers. Clutch-style limited slip differentials are easy to find, stock, and ratios 3.08:1, 3.55:1, 3.73:1, and 4.10:1 are also common. Explorers had disc brakes in the last solid axle iteration, if that's what you want. I got the Ranger 8.8 (56-1/2" 3L55) that is under my Falcon, for $125. I even re-drilled the bolt pattern on it, too! 8.8's are re-drill friendly, as the axle flanges are totally solid, and hole-free.
I use these: http://www.rottenleonard.com/Drill-guide-price.html I had a need for a drill guide that Leonard did not list, for an oddball application. I sent him the specs, and he made it for me! How cool is that! If you can tie your shoes, you can use one of these!
I'm going to throw something out there and hope it may help someone. Years ago when faced with a problem like this I would talk to the machine shop instructor at a local community college. For some goodies for snacks he would let his students use it as a project and he never charged me anything . P.S. If you have a hot daughter or niece that can go to the school with you it will help a lot , why I don't know.
Look for a 4 wheel drive shop. They are usually equipped for working on 9 inch fords. I had one in Chattanooga , tn. narrow the housing, shorten and re spline the axle and redrill them for Chevy bolt pattern. Hudlows was the name of the shop. Took it in on Monday ,picked it up on Thursday. They did a great job.
A nine inch is by far the best hot rod axle going . Been out of production for 35 years . 8.8 is the modern answer to mass production at a cheaper rate . 8.8 is as good if not better that the 9 inch . The flange access hole can be plugged , and welded to redrill the pattern , I’d done many that way . The best of my memory the Bronco 9 inch is 57 1/4 WMS to WMS . The disc brake Granada 9 inch was probably the holy grail in 9 inch productions . 8.8 discs are easily adapted to the 9 inch , but 2 1/2 shoe drums stop great also . On a a tight budget redrill , 3.50 gears , 2 1/2 drum brakes , 28 Spline 4 pinion open carrier , and it will with out a stumble outlast most of us on here . I have seen my racing buddies shoot the pinion straight out the back of the housing , nothing is made so strong that a weak mind can not destroy it in no less than 10 seconds ! Build what your bill fold can afford and enjoy it !
If your in the lower mainland try this http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...neering.com/&usg=AOvVaw3xGfYECYuf4B2WDkGY3qxy. They used to shorten axles and are a distributor for Dutchman motorsports. I'm sure they could also re-drill your axles.
You know....I respect all the opinions here, for the cost of rebuilding this rear, I can do an 8.8, but I need 58 inches flange to flange. I think I'll sell the nine inch and take the advice given here. I'd like to stay with drum brakes, can you guys give me tips on what years to look for? I assume it'll be from an explorer, what should I look for?
A 1993-2009 Ford Ranger pickup 8.8 is 58-1/2". I will dig around and see if there is a native 58" one.
https://www.google.com/amp/www.hotrod.com/articles/ford-rear-axle/amp/ There's a bunch more info out there too.
Seen this on my fb group Thought of you . This guy sells lots on there seems trust worthy .ad is less than a hour old.
I've used Bronco 9" in 59 to 64 Chevys I just use one of those plastic disk lug pattern tools. Drop is over the 5.5 lugs mark the 4.75 pattern you may have to flip the tool over to miss the large hole in the axle. Drill the axle and the brake drum, the drum indexes off the center hole not the lugs so they don't have to be perfect.
Sometimes the cost of rebuilding an old rear end doesn't work out. I got the Ford 9" for free and needed to narrow it to work in my application. Turned out the housing had a slight bend in it and I got a good used one for $100. I paid $100 to get the housing narrowed. Currie couldn't narrow the existing axles so I paid $400 for new Currie axles in the bolt pattern I needed. New ring and pinion, bearings and posi clutches came to $725 but would have been $600 without the posi. Labor was $260 included in the above and would have been $240 without the posi. Total I've spent is $1325. This doesn't include the $65 for new housing ends.
No dice on a 58" one. If you can tolerate an additional 0.250" per side, look for a Ranger. They had drum brakes. Cheap at the u-pull yards.
I've sent boxes of used 9 inch axles for redrilling and resplining to MOSER ENGINEERING. the axle guys. They were very good, and reasonably priced. I assume they must still be in business. I recommend them. about the 8.8 - I am very suspicious of any bearings riding directly on the case hardened axle surface. I know 10 bolts and 12 bolts have a decent reputation, but I like bearings that have their own inner races. If a bearing goes bad..... WHY BE ORDINARY ?
The Jalopy Journal
