Hot Rods What's a good Primer-Surfacer

Repainting the hood on my Healey after louvering. It's been sandblasted and primed with DP-90LF. Dried over 7 days so I've scuffed with red Scotchbrite and will fill some pitting on the underside with Rage Ultra, then want to use a good primer-surfacer for blocking. Any suggestions as to a good quality primer-surfacer? Top Coat will be metallic Deltron 2000 DBC (I already have the qt. to match the original paint) Will I need a sealer between the primer surfacer and the DBC? Thanks,

 

Some guys on here don't like polyesters but I did mine in Evercoat's Superbuild. Has a thicker fill build than any other primer on the market so I didn't need to apply as many coats as some others and it sands nicely It's whats on the truck in my avatar. It's now painted and going back together. Did it all in my garage.

 

All the major manufacturers make good products, if you stay away from the "economy" line. Personally, I like House of Kolor Epoxy (KP-2), as it is an adhesion primer, a filling primer and sealer, as well. And it sands pretty easily. No need for any other product.

 

I've been looking at Evercoat Uro-fill. Anyone have any experience with it?

 

contact paint guru or look at his primer posting,

 

Uro-fill doesn't have much build to it so if you want to use it to block out it is not a great choice. It also, being a urethane, contains isocyanates so there are added health concerns with it.

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Why not stick with the ppg products. K-36. finish it in 600 grit. You don't have to seal it if you don't sand through and k-36 also can be an excellent sealer. The problem will be matching the other panels. You should use the same colored sealer as the adjacent panels.

 

You need to stick with PPG products since you used DP (best Epoxy ever). There are many 2K Urethane surfacers in PPG’s line, but for a resto you cannot beat K36. It’s old technology, but on a resto it’s ideal. The poly primers from Evercoat are excellent, but are porous and don’t sand like a urethane. You also cannot topcoat them directly, and most resto guys use urethane surfacer over them anyway. The trick with K36 is using a slow solvent like DT895 or in cold weather DT885 (Don’t use 860 or 870 period). Give it plenty of time between coats (10-15 min), and give it a few days to a week to sand, and you’ll love the result. One side note, K36 sticks to EVERYTHING, so mask and plastic accordingly! My 49 International has DP, K36, and is directly topcoated with PPG’s DCC single stage Urethane, looks terrific, and is 5 yrs in with 30K miles on it...


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As a hobbyist I've used Slick Sand and was very happy with the results. Epoxy sealer after that and then colour.

 

Excellent advice. Same can be said about the reducer selection for the DBC Rick is going to use. If it is really cold I might use 870 but I'd give it a splash of 895. They shouldn't even make 860. Don't add 895 to 860 though. That's just getting too far apart.

 

I don't like using epoxy as a sealer. It works but it just doesn't seem like the right choice.

 

Thanks for all the advice. Think I'll stick with PPG and go with the K36 and the tips on reducers are great. The rest of the car was sealed with a reduced coat of DP90-LF before the color coat, so I'll probably do the same for the hood.