Projects Info needed on a 47/48 Chevy Coupe

I'm interested in buying this late 40s chevy, but don't know much about them. All I know is that it is a 47 or 48 Chevy. Is it s stylemaster, fleetmaster, or fleetline? Would this be considered a sport coupe? It has no title, and hasn't been run in decades, what would you consider a good price for it? Sorry, 3 pics is all I have at this moment.

 

Sorry to say but not worth much. No title, trim and grill missing and sunk into the ground like that the frame may be in bad shape.
It is not a Fleetline .

 

probably a "Stylemaster" as "Fleetmaster" has trim above the side windows, among other things. they called them Club Coupes, unless it is has no back seat, then it is a Stylemaster Buisness coupe

 

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/cowl.htm

Just swap 42 for 46, 47 or 48 for YOM on body plate to determine..

All Fisher Body styles are identified by a Body Number Plate as illustrated below. This Plate which is the sole means of correctly identifying the body should never be destroyed or mutilated. If, in the installation of heaters or other accessories, it becomes necessary to remove the Body Number Plate, it should be reinstalled as close as possible to its original position.


Using the plate above as an example:

STYLE NO. 46-1007: Is a combination body style number. "46" represents the year 1946. "10" indicates the GM car division (Chevrolet) for whom the body was made and "07" the actual style (model) of the body. Thus Style No. 46-1007 on the typical identification plate above may be interpreted as a 1946 Chevrolet Fleetline Series Aerosedan.

BODY NO. F 3949: Is the sequence or production rotation in which the body was made. The prefix "F" represents the plant in which it was made. (See Assembly Plant Codes Below)

TRIM NO. 132: Is the combination number of the trim used in the body. As shown on the identification plate the Trim No. "132" indicates a combination of plain and tan striped cloth.

PAINT NO. 336: Is the paint or color combination used on the body. The Paint No. 336 as shown on the above plate indicates the body is painted Mayland Black.

• BH (Special De Luxe) or BG (Master De Luxe) for 1942;
• DK (Fleetmaster / Fleetline) or DJ (Stylemaster) for 1946;
• EK (Fleetmaster / Fleetline) or EJ (Stylemaster) for 1947; and
  
• FK (Fleetmaster / Fleetline) or FJ (Stylemaster) for 1948

47 and 48 are similar however 48 had a vertical bar in centre of grill.

Given that there is no grill it's hard to determine. Further it's sunken down to the rockers so it may not fare too well underneath and in the frame? I'm sure of you look around you'll find something in better condition for more $$. That looks to be a parts car. It'll most likely not be economically viable in the long run when you could have sourced a better one to build.

 

Curious if you guys would pay anything in the ball park of $1,350 for the car.

 

I don't think you'd get that much in Parts Sales if you tried to unload it.
You can get running cars of that era for $4-5k, so why bother?

 

That's a business coupe, with the gas tank were the back seat would be.
It really doesn't look very rusty from the pics and I have no idea how hard it is to get a title in Tx, but I would probably buy it.

 

that's not a $1,350 car, especially where you are. here in illinois that car would be like $600 in the same condition.

 

If the car is located near you, North of Dallas, then humidity should not be a concern as in the Eastern States. With the the car sunk into the ground I would be concerned of the actual condition of the frame and suspension.

 

Is the gas tank filler location the giveaway? Just trying to pick up one these nuances.

 

Yep.

 

Hmmm was hoping for a back seat. I think the gas filler on the side is cool

 

...show me some of those that decent in Illinois for $600 and I'll buy em,..
...looks like a good solid car to me...no holes and all the glass looks useable,

 

Exactly what I was thinking. I've had several 40's chevy's , that car would be $2,500+ around here.

 

If you can get it for good price, the parts are out there to totally rebuild that car. Fenders, Trim, Glass, rubber moudlings, sheet metal, electrical, etc..etc...

Sent from my SM-J700T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

If you like the car you should buy it. At the end of the project you will have $15K and 2 years work. What difference is $500 going to make? Most times if we were thinking like this was an investment we would just buy the car finished. Cheaper and no labor.
Joe

 

Hi. Here for comparison are photo's of my 46 Stylemaster Sport Coupe. Bodies are quite similar but with the gas filler on yours it is definitely a business coupe and definitely has a 47 - 48 hood which can be told by looking a the outline in paint where the winged hood badge was located. A couple of good places to look online for parts costs would be www.chevsofthe40s.com or www.fillingstation.com .
I would definitely suspect major rust damage on the bottom end the way it is sunk into the ground.
Jimmie

 

Thanks for all the replies everyone!

 

It seems so weird hearing people talking about titles for cars this old, no titles in New York State until 1973.

You guys are lucky in Upstate New York someone would be asking in the $2,500-$3,000 range, and someone else would give it.

 

You should think about cost to build vs. cost to buy. Don't forget the years of work involved. A bill of sale in Texas is not worth the paper it's written on. Do you want an old car, or that old car.. you can do better. Might cost more, but you will be a lot closer to done at the start.

 

I always buy the cleanest most rust free complete car that I can afford when looking for a project. You will be money and time ahead if you follow this. Lots of projects are given up on because after getting into them it takes too much time and money to fix all the rust and damage.