Rich I think that the only thing that I would have done differently would to be to have picked up the 4 head bolts and incorporated them in the rocker shaft hold-downs, Longer bolts, or preferably studs would then be needed of course. Just be aware that Chevy 1/2" coarse threads are 1/2-12 , not the modern (since about 1910!) 1/2-13 Herb
Yeah. That's why I have those .400 tall spacers under the bolt heads. If it was 1/2-13 I would have just got the right length bolts. Thought about heilo coils decided against that. Could have turned the hex off of the stock bolts and single pointed them to 1/2-20. Make them into 1/2-12 to 1/2-20 studs to fit. I have some cool 12 point nuts that would go on that. Looks like you made studs. But the spacers were quick and dirty. It crossed my mind to run the head bolts through the rocker stands. But then if I wanted to take the rocker assembly off, I would be loosening the head on one side. So all things considered, I decided that I didn't need to build in battleship sturdy. I think this will do OK.
Do you intend to use the springs between the rockers or manufacture spacer tubes? I was surprised by how much drag the springs create. Matthew
When it's done I imagine I will cut some spacers. I need some anyway to align the rockers with the valves.
Rich-- I was running no head gasket, and O rings on the water holes, so no trouble loosing/re-tightening the head. Only place that I had a slight leak was at the rear of #4. If there was oil present at the joint there would be a bubble now and then at the joint, under load. No problem between cylinders. Both head and block were surface ground. Herb
It wouldn't be hard to make new rocker stands that had a step in them that extended toward the pushrod side and incorporated the head bolts. I could then leave out the two 1/4-20 allen bolts from that side. Thread the top of the head bolts to make 1/2-12 to 1/2-20 studs. But I really don't think I would gain anything from doing that. It might be a little bit more bullet proof. But for my purposes I think I'm fine as is.
If I wasn't so old and worn out, I would get a Pinto motor and seriously look at the rocker arrangement and cam drive. I think that would be the answer to lots of things. Those old guys had the right idea in '48. Just not as many OHC engines to look at for ideas.
Yes. I had one like that, without the fancy roller rockers and Webers. It went 128 at El Mirage several years ago. Which was good for a 2 liter single cam roadster. But the class had moved on to twin cam four valve engines, So I got a Lotus 907 and ran 141 mph. I liked the Pinto. I would need a billet cam, of course. But since the head is already milled off flat on top, you could cut out a plate to mount three or four cam bearings and the adjusters. I already have the tooth belt drive on the crank and oil pump. i also ran a Nissan E30 SOHC three liter V6, in Jack Costellas car. That engine had rocker shafts with the valve on one end and the cam follower on the other. Went 195 on gas and 231 on fuel. Never had any rocker issues. Liked that motor also. To bad i never saved any of these.
So you think that can could be adapted for the chev/olds head? With a bit of cut and shut for the valve spacing?
I believe that the rocker arms and adjusters along with the drive pulley would be good to investigate for the Chevy/Olds head. There may be other parts that would be better. But the Pinto parts are well serviced in the after market and seem like they should work. I ran the heck out of mine for 4 years or so. I broke one stock rocker arm. Not bad. The Nissan never broke any, but I only ran it one year. The actual cam would be a one off part. But Joe Panak would be happy for the work on the blank. I think Dema Elgin has retired. If so a grinder would have to be found who was interested in this whole thing. But I don't know why you couldn't do it. And then you might go for some longer valves and build in a killer lift.
I found this on eBay. It won't be hard to make it fit a Chevy or Olds head, if I find one to those. It's very close and just needs a little work on the head side.
Nice find. Model A original fitment? I may chase Rich’s Pinto OHC idea. I have a surplus of heads to play with The head cost essentially nothing so not much to loose
Now that does look interesting, not real easy but interesting. The Ellis intake is not Model A. It's closer to a 153 Chevy but not quite. The upper mounting holes are threaded so the bolts come from the engine side. Ellis made a lot of stuff. It may have bolted to a truck blower or an intake adapter of some kind. Any way it would look cool on a '28 Chevy.
Mac. I may have south west England cornered. Still on the 3 port thing. Can someone talk about the drilling from the centre exhaust port through to between the intake ports. Was it a Chevy/Olds difference? Or year specific? Did both Olds and chev have it? I would assume yes It seems an odd thing to do. i take it it's a hot air source for the carb? And not a pioneering EGR system......
UPDATE: I hope to have some raw castings by the end of the month for my 2x1 intake shown several pages back.
With a heavy heart, my Chevy/Ford project is up for sale. Model T chassis, Model A axles, Chevy 4 banger motor (running) and gearbox. Plus all the spares I have, including a second engine, axles, steering column, bonnet(/hood), radiator surrounds, etc. Here are some pictures; https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=15NxesM-wUfaFmVEI_l-w9St5uihLK9I_ If anyone is interested, email me at [email protected]. If you live overseas and want to take advantage of the current exchange rates, not a problem, I can help arrange shipping.
Since Photobucket went away I have been looking for another hosting site, so i'll be sure to do that.
On this site you can post from your desktop. Picasa did the same thing to me. I'm still downloading my pics from there back to my laptop.
I have 4 chevy connecting rods I need to ID, I think they are for a 20's engine but not sure. They have the number 351663, a bowtie, 83 on them. Poured babbit bearings(well used) with a roughly 1.5" diameter. Center to center length is about 7 3/8". I don't have any pics, but can get some if needed. Thanks
The length and big end measurements are right for a four. I don't know about the numbers. There is quite a bit of rod talk earlier in this thread.
Are they something worth saving? I have no use for them. Was going to use one to make a column drop for my project car. But if they are rare or someone can use them I won't.
I purchased this engine a few months back, hopefully I can crate it up and send it home when I am in LA in January. It is a 224" variant.
The Jalopy Journal
