Hot Rods Sbf in model A

So I took a first look at stuffing my sbf into my 1929 sedan. At first glance it looks like I have a couple options. I will need to cut the firewall or move the body back by extending the frame. Would like to know what others have done or see pics links to builds. Have not found much searching. This is my first build. Thanks


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Mine has the firewall cut and set back about 4 inches.
It can be cut at the gas tank bolt on line if you want to keep it simple or there are other tricks like cutting it much higher up and following the curved shape of the outer cowl lines and the then you can reverse the tank bolt up flange so it sits inside the cab instead of being visible in the engine bay.
I have done both and much prefer to do the extra work and provide a cleaner look.
Sorry no pic's to post right now, but I am sure others will have some to show.

 

No pics, but I have done a couple and extending the frame is the simple remedy. Otherwise it takes a firewall/floorboard mod, later short water pump and pulley set up and still a steering gear clearance issue.

 

You also have the option of using a snow white water pump shorty kit to remove 2" from the front of the engine which will give you more leg room,extending the frame is a option but if you plan to use fenders and a hood that creates a lot of problems. HRP

http://www.snowwhiteltd.com/products.html

 

Thanks are you able to use a regular fan


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Thanks it seems setting the body back maybe the easier mod.


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Yeah I want to see the price for the kit. The care will be fender and hoodless


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Putting sbf in a Model A has tradeoffs over a sbc. I've got a '29 truck cab, and wow, is it tight with a 351W. As mentioned above, a stretched frame requires sheetmetal work, be prepared for some interesting routes for the steering shaft and box, firewall setback of 4 inches is still tick-tight. Welcome to Hotrodding 101. The benefit is a Ford in a Ford, distributor in the front, almost as many modification options as a sbc and as plentiful used blocks.

 

Ford in a ford was a must for me nothing against anyone else. I plan to do everything else traditional I wanted a flat head but the 302 was handy. So I'm looking to do the least invasive mods I can.


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A regular fan can be possible with a short modified water pump and setting your engine height right.
Steering like most hot rods requires some planning if you are using cross steering which generally needs to be in tune with your engine mount position and your exhaust setup.
Take comfort in the fact that it has been done before many times, you are not the first.

 

I do take a small comfort in knowing that. I am planning to run the model A box if possible my plans are to bolt the steering column in and then start positioning the motor to see what problems I'm going to run into with motor mounts and headers thanks


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I'm putting a 302 in a 32. By using a 70's timing cover, 1968 pump (water on the right side so I can use a cheaper Chevy radiator), Speedway's chrome pulleys and alternator bracket and a Y block 4 blade fan I am at 29-1/2" bellhousing flange to tip of fan/water pump snout. If I use a flex fan (shown in the picture) I have to put in a 1" spacer and I'm 30-1/2". With the 4 blade fan it's pretty close to the length of a SBC. I am using a Professional Products balancer to get the 3 bolt pattern for the crank pulley. I will be machining a 1/4" spacer to be used behind the crank pulley to get it all to line up.
SPark

 

Wow that looks great! Thanks for the pics. Question on the water pump do you get that by going to the parts store and asking for the pump off a 1968 so and so? I'm new to this game.


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Just a suggestion but that type of flex fan leaves a lot to be desired,I prefer a steel fan,then you won't have to worry about the blades working loose. HRP

 

I just went into my local small town parts store and asked for a water pump for a 1968 Ford 302. They even had a new one in stock. My reasoning on this pump is it's a really common pump and could be bought out on a trip someplace if I had a problem with one. It also lets me run a cheaper Chevy radiator that is easier to find. As a plus it gets the lower radiator hose away from the fuel lines. I'm trying to keep it a simple and drivable build.

I have already decided to use the steel 4 blade Y block fan because it shortens up the engine a bit more than the flex fan. The flex fan was a leftover from a previous project. I've used them in the past without any problem but the 4 blade just looks more correct for this one. Also using 1964 Fairlane valve covers, not the cheapo finned ones in the picture. Have to run a Mustang II or Bronco pan to clear the cross steering, so the finned aluminum pan in the pics is a wall hanger again.

SPark

 

This is an SBC but the same would apply with the Ford. Just different motor mounts and you don't have to go as deep as I have.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-southern-employment-special-insanity101.1001953/

I have since removed the tank from the cowl top and built a sub floor for a mild channel but have not been I diligent about posting

 

I will give That try. Thanks for all the advice.


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I will be giving this a good read after work thanks!


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I put a 302 in my '29 Coupe back in the 80's before short water pumps were readily available. I just recessed the firewall. Yes, things are tight, but in a Model A they are no matter what V8 you use. I personally wouldn't extend the frame or slide the body back because I feel the long wheel base looks out of proportion.

 

Put a 5.0l in my '31 coupe, 5-1/2" recessed firewall and after modifying the package tray have plenty of legroom (I'm 6'2"). You're going to hit issues no matter what you go with. I preferred a Ford-in-Ford as well.

 

My thoughts on the frame and body move were 6-7". I don't really want to change the wheelbase though recessed firewall is probably the way to go. Thanks


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For a first build you increase the difficulty going with a SBF. It can be done, as other's are showing you, but it is harder packaging. Usually a first build is challenging enough without adding difficulty, but you pay your money and you make your choices. It's your car after all, and if a SBF is what you want, than God bless you. I've always liked the high revving nature of a well tuned 289 myself. Never owned one, but I've ridden in a few friends cars, and raced against a few, and was impressed by how well they run. But I don't like the looks of them in an early Ford. If keeping a Ford in a Ford was important to me I'd be considering a Y block, just because they look so good sitting in a hot rod. They don't run as well, and they have their own issues, but damn, they do look good. They're traditional too, SBF's really aren't.

 

Dads car has the firewall recessed about 4 inches. the other really trick way Ive seen done was to cut the firewall out and flip it backwards. looks really stock, just have to extend your hood rods.

 

i added 5in to my frame to help fit the 351w and here is some pictures on how I did mine thttps://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/30-model-a-tudor-build-first-build-ever.957114/page-3

 

Here’s mine with the steel 4 blade fan. 29.5” from back of block to face of fan. Remember, you don’t have to worry about distributer clearance on the Ford either.
SPark

 

I wanted my engine low so I could have as little trans tunnel as possible, so that meant going electric fan (engine driven would have been too low).
This shows the firewall recess and setback as well as steering linkage.

 

There is a kit from Snow White available that shortens up the water pump by about 2 inches which is pretty significant. Do that and reverse the firewall and you may not have to recess the firewall at all. Certainly worth doing some measuring.

 

Street Rodder (or one of the mags) did this swap with an electric water pump and didn't cut the firewall. Had to use an electric fan obviously and they hid it all under the stock hood.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ford-model-a-instant-hot-rod-part-2/


Todd

 

Don't use a "Snow white" water pump, use stock one. Out on the road, you can replace it from any auto parts store.
On the fan-----Use an electric one, installed at highest point on radiator.

 

Thats a great build thread! Cant wait to see it done.