Customs 1961 Chrysler Front Suspension anyone worked on one?

Dude, in opposite order...Every American ball joint I've ever seen, and that would be a lot, have a tapered stud and not a bolt going through the spindle hole . Not sure what kind of foreign car you've worked on .
#2 , Reason I asked about the torch is because I didn't see one in the pics. All you had to do is heat the upped knuckle , and whack the stud, (in the right direction, of course) , and it will come right out, even at this late date.
Now, grumpy old farts, aside , just ask first, okay?

 

We all have varying skill levels here and piling on is part of the deal here. Most of us mean well. I did probably thousands of Mopar front ends when I was in the car biz. You definitely should grab a shop manual. The one for my Ford is also from Faxon, got it on eBay for like $35.
When I'm not sure how something comes apart, I look at the new part for clues. See what fasteners it takes, how many, if it has threads on it, etc.

 

I've been doing things wrong my whole life. my vice is mounted on a bench

 

With a little online assistance I was able to remove the spindle from the lower ball joint, then put the spindle on the vise at beat out the upper tapered shaft back out, just waiting for my upper control arm bushings to come in so I can put it back together.

 

If anyone else was looking for advice on how to remove the spindle to get to the bushings or ball joints, I recommend loosening the ball joint nut,taking a larger ball pien hammer and tapping all around where the spindle bolts to the ball joint. I was told every tap slight enlarges that tapered hole, took about 5 minutes, but worked for me and didn't need to use a pickle fork. NOT claiming to be any kind of expert, just passing information on if it's helpful to anyone.

 

Glad to hear you are back on track with your front end work. Thanks for posting your progress.

Ray

 

Glad to see you got it handled and are not sticking a straight axle under it.

 

Draginsteel, on my 56 Chrysler I have the king pins not ball joints .I don't know what is worse. Like you I had to get a puller to get the rear brake drums off{well one side just came off the other side was a S.O.B. to get off.} You would think Chrysler would of come up with some better ideas with a good running car like these we both have.Bruce.

 

All that work and the rear brakes were in good shape.LOL.Bruce.

 

Andydodge we are all grumpy old farts now it comes with age.LOL.Bruce.

 

Try E Bay.

 

A puller is SOP (often with lots of difficulty) with these old axles, that's why many replace them with modern axles. The 65-7 C body axle bolts into many Mopars, other Ford & Mopar axles work with a spring perch relocation.

 

If he thinks this place is full of 'grumpy old farts' now he would not have liked this place 10 years ago...

This forum has about a thoudand years of experience in automotive repair and yet newbies seem to want to ignore the availability.....I don't get it.

.

 

Not only am I a grumpy old fart but you should smell my farts...............lol................main thing is to not take yourself too seriously..........as nobody else does.........lol..........regards, andyd

 

Thats what "grumpy old fart" SQUIRREL told you in the very first response you received to this thread. LOL

 

Actually if you hit it on the right spot and hard enough it pops loose the first time you hit it.
Don't waste time with a Chiltons or Haynes or other generic manual. Get an original factory dealers shop manual for the model you have. There are originals and reprints on both Ebay and Amazon. They might run some bucks but the payback will be quick as they are usually simple reading and detailed.