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Technical '57 Buick drivetrain dilemma.

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Skiroule69, Oct 28, 2017.

  1. Skiroule69
    Joined: Dec 29, 2016
    Posts: 27

    Skiroule69
    Member

    Earlier this year I bought a '57 Buick Special two-door sedan. It was originally a 364/3-speed manual trans car. I love stick vehicles, so that was a huge part of the draw for me. The vehicle was one step up (depending on who you ask) from being a parts car. Interior shredded, most of the original nailhead gone (except for the short assembly, which was seized) it needed interior and trunk floors, some quarter panel patching, and the paint is hashed.

    Why, you might ask, did I buy it? I may be weird, but when I got this thing I envisioned going through the stock drivetrain, making everything work, waxing the 'patina' and making a fun driver out of it. No interior other than a bench seat, some radial tires, maybe an alternator and front discs at some point. I was going for the type of vehicle you could drive the wheels off of all summer, rain or shine, and not be afraid to blast down some dirt roads with either.

    Up to this point I'm well into the floor and quarter patching, but I'm starting to think of drivetrain. Even though I bought a complete '61 364 nail head for $400, long story short it still needs a ton of machine work, and I haven't bought any of the parts for the refresh.

    I looked at some complete, running nail heads in the $1,500 range, but being mostly on the west coast, I'd have an easy couple grand into it by the time I got it shipped to Michigan, and if I had problems with it, there would be no turning back.

    At this point in the game I don't have a spare couple thousand to properly rebuild this 364, or buy a complete runner. Although I resisted with every bone in my body at first, I'm warming up to the idea of (temporarily) installing an SBC so I can put some miles on the car. Here's where things get interesting: I want to keep the three-speed column shift manual trans. Installing one compatible with an SBC would be easy enough, but then I'd have to swap the stock rear and enclosed driveshaft. I really don't want to go through all that just to get the car running. Plus I'd like to put the nail head back in at some point.

    I guess what I'm wondering is, does anyone make an adapter bellhousing to mate this Buick 3-speed with an SBC? What would you guys do?
     
  2. gggholson
    Joined: Dec 9, 2007
    Posts: 163

    gggholson
    Member

    Don't want to rain on your parade but the 57 Buick 3 speed manual was installed only in the 250 HP Specials. It is a VERY light weight tranny and do not believe it will hold up behind a SBC.
     
  3. Why not if the sbc is in the same hp range?

    Ben
     
  4. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    The main problem you have with this swap is the design of the Buick (Olds & Pontiac) manual transmissions of the '30s/'40s/'50s. Specifically the way the trans interfaces with the bell housing.

    Unlike the vast majority of manual trans, there is no front bearing retainer/TO brg sleeve on the front of the trans. Instead, the bell housing is machined to act as the front brg retainer and has a slip in tube on which the TO brg rides. An adapter of some sort, either one that adapts the Buick bell housing to your Chevy block, or a plate that bolts to a Chevy bell housing and the backside mimics the the Buick bell. That is easier said than done.

    In my opinion, your will be better off to get a decent running compatible Buick engine than mess with trying to adapt the Buick trans to something else. I love older Buicks, but the driveline issues can make one pull their hair out.

    Edit: just read post #2. I thought about mentioning that but did not. The poster may be correct, but I am not sure. There are two manual trans that were used in Buicks from '37 thru about '60. Either is easily identified by the number of bolts that hold the tin cover on the top of the case The 5 bolt cover is the light duty box and the poster is correct. The other is a 6 bolt cover and that is the heavier duty unit and should be reliable. I would strongly suggest you determine which you have. But either one interfaces the way I described above, the only difference is the 6 bolt cover trans has a similar, but different bolt pattern where it bolts to the bell.

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2017

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,085

    squirrel
    Member

    Does the "new" engine really need machine work, or can you put it together with new rings and gaskets, and maybe some bearings, and have it last several thousand miles?

    It's kind of surprising what you can get away with when trying to make an engine run.
     
    low budget, Los_Control and Hnstray like this.
  6. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,015

    belair
    Member

    Hnstray is right. There were two standard transmissions, a five and the six bolt units. If you're interested in another six bolt, bell and some misc. parts, send me a convo. And I would make sure you could use the Buick steering column with a Chevy trans. The Buicks had a CRAZY way of shifting. I love those 57s, and tudors are really cool. Good luck. It takes some real determination to run a nailhead.
     
    Donuts & Peelouts likes this.
  7. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 1,287

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    31hotrodguy likes this.
  8. gggholson
    Joined: Dec 9, 2007
    Posts: 163

    gggholson
    Member

    Pretty sure the last 6 bolt was in 56.
     
  9. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 7,874

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Where are you ? Guy here has a '63 LeStabber you can drive away for a grand ...
     
  10. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 2,698

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    Honestly, I'll give my opinion but I don't think you'd like it. seriously though you are not in Chevy/Ford land that is for sure. I'm currently building a 364 for a friend's 57 Century. They are nice cars but nothing is easy and nothing is cheap. The stock rebuild has not been anything but cheap and things are not as interchangeable as you would think. With that being said there more than a few post here on nailheads. I'd suggest reading everything you can before taking anything apart. I did a poor man's rebuild on My 401 in a wildcat and it ran good for many more miles but even then it wasnt cheap but it was do able and that was on a Sailor's salary. Also Just wait until you go to rebuild the front suspension. They are a little pricey.
    My teenage son has a fairly good 57 4dr hardtop Super that came with a 425 but we keep coming back to cost and the closed drive line. So for now it sits while he works towards something else. I'm not trying to discourage you as I have a love for nailheads (My 1st car was a wildcat) but rather make sure you know what your getting into. With that being said a 2dr Hard Top 57 Buick stick car is totally worth doing and a nailhead can definitely be re ringed and rebearinged but but like i said, know what you are getting into. IMO..... since you asked.

    Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  11. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,344

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Is there any way a truck bellhousing would work? There were 322's installed in Chevy buses in '58-59. Would a later Chevy bell work?
     
  12. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    A 322 bell housing won't fit a 364.
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,085

    squirrel
    Member

    do you know how big those truck 322 bellhousings are? I doubt it would fit in the car
     
  14. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Aside from the problems raised by the above two posts, the OP wants to mate a Chevy engine to a Buick transmission, not a Buick engine to a Chevy transmission. Further, IIRC, the 332 in a Chevy was done prior to the introduction of the Chevy V8, more like '53/'54 than '58/'59, by which time the 348 engine was available in both trucks and cars.

    Ray
     
  15. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,085

    squirrel
    Member

    he's talking about the late 50s 322 Buick engine use in Chevy school bus chassis. And oddball, really hard to find, and not really any help for this project.

    The 322 was offered concurrently with the 348 in the late 50s.
     
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  16. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Squirrel, those bellhousings weigh a bunch. I had one for my 322 but went with a adapter because it was lighter and a whole lot nicer looking.
    Frank
     
  17. Donuts & Peelouts
    Joined: Dec 12, 2016
    Posts: 1,193

    Donuts & Peelouts
    Member
    from , CA

    That Nailhead and any Nailhead will do your wallet damage. Take into consideration that it take a special shop with guys who have done a couple nails to do it right. They have do be done meticulously and then balanced just right. Transmissions that the Nailheads came with are unique to match the Nailhead pattern. Throw a buick 300,340,350,400,430,455 in their for less the price.

    Sent from my SM-J727T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    I love chevy but I would still put a Buick engine in it.
     
  18. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,344

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Lol. Just to clarify, I was suggesting using a chevy truck bell to put a chevy engine into the buick. If it would bolt easily to the buick transmission. I honestly don't know if the chevy bell would bolt to the buick frame, but it would be a pretty simple solution..if it would fit.
     
  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,085

    squirrel
    Member

    chevy truck bellhousing won't bolt into the Buick, and won't bolt to the Buick 3 speed, and the chevy transmission won't bolt to the Buick torque tube.

    Either keep an old Buick motor in it, or swap out the whole drivetrain
     
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  20. Way back in the dark ages [ late 50s] we installed new rings and bearings in brothers '56 322 after he overheated it. Did this beneath the shade tree, in the grass. Were we experts? Nah, just two old late teen country boys. But then, nobody told us we could not do it. For goodness sakes, grind the valves, new rings and inserts and drive the rascal!

    Ben
     
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  21. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    The last Buick that came with a 322 was in 1956. The easiest way to get this 57 Buick on the road would be to get a running or rebuilt 364, 401 or 425 Nailhead and use all the 57 standard shift parts. Anything else will require the rear end to be converted to open drive. I doubt the OP had this in mind.
    Back in the day we put a 58 Buick 364 CI 315 HP Nailhead in a 55 Buick 2 door post car, used a 37 big Buick 3 speed floor shift and the original Buick torque tube. All we had to do was use the main and tail shaft from a 48 Buick transmission to make it fit. Did a lot of transmission damage by racing and could buy those 48 Buick transmissions from a local junk yard for $5.00. Bought my first pair of snap ring pliers to rebuild those transmissions. Still remember using wheel bearing grease to load the needle bearings and thrust washers.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2017
  22. Skiroule69
    Joined: Dec 29, 2016
    Posts: 27

    Skiroule69
    Member

    Mine is the 6 bolt top cover trans. I checked that right away after hearing horror stores about the 5 bolt jobs. I was only thinking Chev to put the car on the road a season or two faster (I work kind of slow and am putting this thing together with beer can money). I really, really would like to keep the nail in it.

    My biggest mistake (and project buck eater) was rushing to buy a $400, seized up Craigslist 364. I thought I was home free, get either it or the '57 lower end freed up, use the '61 heads and top end and have myself a runner. It turned into something quite a bit more complicated. I tore the '61 apart and found a rusted tight carb, several bent pushrods, oil pan pushed into the crank (when the engine was still running, so the crank carved notches in the pan) and one cylinder that had water in it long enough to seriously pit the combustion chamber in the head, and require that cylinder to be either sleeved or bored. The rest of the cylinders weren't any better, having some serious ridge.

    I would have loved to buy a complete or at least a free spinning 364, but they just aren't to be found where I'm located (lower Michigan). I see many complete, some even running nailheads out West, but haven't got the coin to pay for one and have it shipped all the way out here. I guess I was thinking of the Chev because you can find one of those in the $300 range, versus a $1,500 Buick.

    We'll see though. I'm in now way giving up. I love the car and have done a LOT of work to it so far, so it will run, just sounds like it might be waiting for a proper Buick V8 to show up. Thanks guys!
     
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  23. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    Thats what I would do. Keep us posted on your progress.

    Gary
     
  24. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,956

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Patience is a virtue. I needed an Olds Rocket to return my dirt modified back to original. I looked and looked and had the same results you seem to be having. Two years later a complete fresh rebuilt with an Isky cam, Gotha rockers and an Offy dual quad dropped into my lap for $2000. It seems like a lot, but have you priced vintage speed equipment lately?
     
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  25. 2manycars2littletime
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 98

    2manycars2littletime
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree with Fabber McGee and Squirrel.
    I'd keep looking for a low cost running or freely turning engine.

    Have you contacted the poster of this CL ad?
    Sounds like he's got some parts that might be of help...
    https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/pts/d/buick-nailhead-322-block-with/6316669086.html

    There are lots of Buick guys in SE Michigan.
    The local Buick Club chapters would probably also yield some inexpensive options.
    PM me if you want help finding Buick club contacts.
     
  26. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 2,698

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    It's been awhile but i don't think the 401/425 is a direct drop in. I can't remember but the engine mounts may be different and I know the oil pain/oil pump is different (You don't want the stock 57 oil pump anyways). The crank is different which means the fly wheel is not an automatic bolt up but there is adapters for that. Can it be done? Oh sure, but it's not as easy one might think. I might be worth it to get a hold of Tommy Ivo. He might have some insight on the Buick stick stuff which is pretty rare.

    Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  27. 2manycars2littletime
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 98

    2manycars2littletime
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Also, reach out to Russ Martin for advice.
    I've had several questions on my 58 nailhead and he's been very helpful, plus he's got all the parts you'll need.
    http://centervilleautorepair.com/
     
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  28. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 2,698

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    I have used him as well but i couldn't remember his name. He is very knowledgeable and very helpful!!!!! Plus he has a lot of the parts you would need. Keep in mind though if the price of his parts scares you at first just keep repeating to your self "I'm not in Chevy land/Ford land!" Lol. Then you'll feel a little better.

    Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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